FerranRico

I drove it about 100 miles on Saturday (no load), stayed on the cool side (2nd mark on the bar) and EGT's were 600, and it even seemed to give me better mpg's.., went from 6-8 to around 12-13mpg's.., I tought that I had it licked.., ohh well..., back to the drawing board...
It sure does jump when I punch it.., I kinda liked it...

FerranRico

My bad.., I went back through the thread and ya'll do have the ranges right 1.25 to 1.55.., so I'll recheck and see what I really got.., from my limited mech experience and timing knowhow.., by rights.. it shouldn't have ran with the timing soo advanced.., but then Diesels are mistifying anyway.., and do weird things like running under the worst of conditions.., once you get them cranked and going...
Dang it.., it IS a pain to be removing the fuel lines...

G1625S

Don't forget that your timing pin may not be completely accurate---I guess there's a detailed procedure to set it if it's been moved. Having that off by a bit could really skew your results. I plan on finding TDC using the valve-drop method and THEN I'll line my pin up to match my findings. Short of advancing the pump gear several teeth, it will definitely run with lots of advance(within reason). Not enough timing will cause a no start in short order. I moved my pump gear the wrong way to start and it wouldn't even fart when I hit the key. Keep on swingin, you'll get her figured---and when you do, let me know how ya did it!

FerranRico

I checked my TDC by taking out the #1 injector and inserting the tip of a straightened out coat hanger, then "felt" the uppermost reach of the piston, and it lined up with the TDC pin hole, it was dead on center..
btw I took out the darned pin housing, 'cause I couldn't get it to plunge in.., I also dropped the power steering box and that gave me LOTS of room to put my big mittens in there under the injection pump...
I'll be playing with it again this weekend... if it quits raining...

Underpsi

Raining whats rain anyways, must be nice. Its snowing here. Im j/k ya i wouldn't wanna work out in the rain either. Good luck with getting it figured out.

G1625S

Well, I'm elbows-deep in the project right now...got TDC verified using the valve-drop method...sure wish I had the barring tool right now, it's tough to be delicate turning the engine over by wraping your hands around the damper and twisting! I marked .020'' valve drop on either side of TDC then split the difference and called it TDC. Now I've got the injector lines off and am trying to get the dial indicator rigged up on the plunger...anybody seen my magnetic jig for my dial indicator?! I welded one together for the valve-drop, but there's about ZERO room to work with down by the pump...I'll get 'er done, just had to stop in and vent for a minute, hehe. I'm taking pics that I can post up if there's an interest. I'm also working on a website so I can put some video up of the ol girl blowin smoke Anyway, back to the plunger lift!
greg

FerranRico

I didn't wanna chance dropping a valve in the cylinder.. with my luck.. it would have happened.., so that's why I did the coat hanger method.. what's the difference?
yep.., i ain't got a garage here in wet coastal Virginia.., so my wrenching times are getting limited now that the rains and soon snow have started appearing more frequently...
That barring tool sure is niice..., I chased two Snap-On tools truck to get mine.., it was worth it..
don't forget to mark your flywheel once ye get 'er done at TDC and at zero point.., makes it a whole easier to not be messing with that darned plunger pin hole..

FerranRico

I used a Sharpie Silver Paint marker.., makes a nice very visible neon mark on top of the rusty flywheel...

G1625S

Moving along, I'm presently timed @ 1.37mm plunger lift @TDC. So, at least on my truck, it is safe to advance the pump gear by a tooth while still maintaining a safe level of advance. For my CPL (0804) I should be at 1.40mm...so I'm a little retarded, but we alrady knew that....I'm gonna set it at 1.65 and give her a go. To be continued with pics...

FerranRico

Cool beans.., I'm gonna be conservative and set mine at 1.35mm this weekend, being that I'll be pulling that 8K lb load or so...
BTW, did you take your fan off?.. how do you do that? is there a special tool? there's no way that I can get my arms in there what with the shroud and fan and all to turn the flywheel by hand...
I can still put the puller in between the fan blades and be able to push the pump out from the gear..., but if I didn't have the barring tool.., it would be heck to turn the engine without taking the radiator off.., (like I did the first time) at the flywheel nut.., I tried turning the generator but the belt just slipped..

G1625S

Not for nothing, but when you say flywheel, are you refering to the harmonic balancer that's bolted to the crank? When I think flywheel, I think of the big plate on the back of the engine that the clutch engages. Anyway, just wanted to make sure we're on the same page

To answer your question, yes, I did take the fan off. I remove it as an assembly with the bearing and all--it bolts to the block with 4 bolts. 10mm heads. The fan itself will come off the pulley assembly, but the special whench set makes it much easier that it is otherwise. It's reverse thread as well, I think. With the fan and shroud removed, the harmonic balancer is easily accessable, but still a bear to turn by hand, 'specially when your trying to move within a few degrees of TDC! My timing ended up just above 1.65. It's more rattly than I'm used to, but I like the power. I double and triple checked and there was definitely 1.65?mm of plunger travel right at TDC. I don't think I'll go any farther with the stock injectors.

FerranRico

Yeah.. the harmonic balancer.., it's still a flywheeel of sorts.. no teeth... ha ha
And I Did go out in the rain and checked the engine plate.. it IS as ya'll say 1.25mm advance.., so I'll be setting her back this weekend...
Congrats on getting yours done...

Alec

Well, Greg, if you were at 1.37 before, whoever re-built your pump really screwed up. You're sure that the pump drive gear was timed correctly before you advanced it a tooth? One tooth is a fair amount of timing! And at one tooth advance you weren't even back to your stock setting if I am reading you correctly. That would explain your boost increase, too!

G1625S

seems like every timing thread I start goes on for at least 4 pages...for those that haven't been around as long, look up ''timing is everything'' in the 1st gen section. Some interesting info to get the brain working and a demonstration of how to resolve a difference of opinion without getting a thread locked...

anyway, some pics:



mmmm,surgery...



crude, but effective;




I gotta get the dial indicator WHERE?

G1625S

Alec, the 1.37 was with the pump pulled back as far as it would go, though I was thinking the same thing you are. If there's one thing to be certain of, it's that every truck/pump is waaayyy different. Is it possible that one tooth only provides 0.20mm lift difference? I suppose. Is it possible that I couldn't struggle that crank damper to exactly TDC every time? Most definitely. What I noticed was that it didn't take much movement of the pump to affect the dial indicator...the width of the timing mark made a difference in the gauge that was noticable. At any rate, I'm glad I've gone through the process. I think I'll go by sound now that I have a reference.
greg