Low pedal normal in Dodges?
Not sure why you think anything will be going out of alignment. All you are doing is rocking the shoes back and forth as an assembly to determine how far until the lining contacts the drum.
New machined drums are round at first
Then the first time you use the they are out of round.
They get hot they expand they cool down they contract. The shoe area contracts less than the non shoe area. Giving them a oval shape.
Funny Bob, every 1st gen i've ever driven with stock 12x2.5 brakes were good, like my Dad's D250 with the cheapest shoes from advance auto and cracked worn out drums, has the best brakes i've ever felt in a pickup truck. LOL.
I upgrade all mine to 3" W350 brakes, spend lots of $$. and i get crap. I also have a brand new raybestos "professional" grade master cylinder on my truck with a NON leaking cap.
I can't imagine the 1 1/8 bore wheel cylinders being too big to be filled as Dodge used them on the W350's with 3" shoes.......Or did they? Advance auto and Napa list 1" and 1 1/8" bore for a 91 W350 Diesel
My brakes are good on 2nd-3rd pump, 1st pump is all mush and feels like all front brakes doing the work, until 2nd pump i feel rear ones start to grab.
Maybe the 1 1/8 wheel cyl. is too much to fill on 1st pump.
Even more reason i need to put my Chevy hydroboost on with
1 1/4" bore master cylinder vs. stock dodge 1 1/8"
I upgrade all mine to 3" W350 brakes, spend lots of $$. and i get crap. I also have a brand new raybestos "professional" grade master cylinder on my truck with a NON leaking cap.
I can't imagine the 1 1/8 bore wheel cylinders being too big to be filled as Dodge used them on the W350's with 3" shoes.......Or did they? Advance auto and Napa list 1" and 1 1/8" bore for a 91 W350 Diesel
My brakes are good on 2nd-3rd pump, 1st pump is all mush and feels like all front brakes doing the work, until 2nd pump i feel rear ones start to grab.
Maybe the 1 1/8 wheel cyl. is too much to fill on 1st pump.
Even more reason i need to put my Chevy hydroboost on with
1 1/4" bore master cylinder vs. stock dodge 1 1/8"

Im looking for this hydroboost
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From: Land of the Toxic Avenger
Because your drums are warped all drum are warped.
New machined drums are round at first
Then the first time you use the they are out of round.
They get hot they expand they cool down they contract. The shoe area contracts less than the non shoe area. Giving them a oval shape.
New machined drums are round at first
Then the first time you use the they are out of round.
They get hot they expand they cool down they contract. The shoe area contracts less than the non shoe area. Giving them a oval shape.
Tonight my buddy with his 97 E250 work van asked me to look at his rear brakes. His van began growling at the rear diff, and he said he didn't want to be without a vehicle tomorrow, as the job he's doing (he's a sparky) he needed his van to work there, as it has all of his tools inside. WHen I removed the brake drums the shoe holddown had fallen off and was tumbling around in the drum. His rear E-brake cables were frozen and his brake linings were cracked and missing for the most part. We went to autozone, picked up a new 12x3 set of shoes, hardware kit, adjuster kit for the passenger side (which was disintegrated) and replaced all of the parts in a couple of hours. His drums were grooved and rusted to heck, yet they weren't out of round at all, as when I adjusted them, they made perfect "full" contact the first time around.
Made me mad as heck that my brand new drums didn't seat like his worn out junk did..
Because your drums are warped all drum are warped.
New machined drums are round at first
Then the first time you use the they are out of round.
They get hot they expand they cool down they contract. The shoe area contracts less than the non shoe area. Giving them a oval shape.
New machined drums are round at first
Then the first time you use the they are out of round.
They get hot they expand they cool down they contract. The shoe area contracts less than the non shoe area. Giving them a oval shape.
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