Thanks Mom & Dad!



Now I need a couple little elves to help out.

3" Shoes, Drums, Star wheel kits, Hardware kit, 1 1/8 wheel cylinders. I don't want the GM cylinders because they take too much fluid to fill up.

I am gonna try to do the ABS Dump valve bypass on the frame as well. After all this i should have excellent or close to it brake system. I have new Rotors/Ceramic pads on the front along with stainless braided lines going to the calipers.

 

Nice

 

Sweet! Not sure I understand the comment on the GM cylinders though...once the system is full, what's the difference if you have to add a bit more?

 

Good for you X mas boy !


Want to borrow my peanut butter jar with the recovery hose impregnated in it ???? Then you can be sure you'll get that bleeding done right....

 

That's not what i mean, my bad......The problem is on the 1st pump of the pedal the master cylinder doesn't push enough fluid into the wheel cylinders to fully apply the shoes because the wheel cylinder bores are so large, on the 2nd pump usually you'll get a nice firm brake pedal and it'll stop. But I like pushing the pedal once and having nice brakes with a high pedal, we put the GM Cylinders in a truck before and didn't like them. Honestly the 7/8 bore wheel cylinders and 2.5" shoes give you the highest pedal and most responsive in an emergency since theres less volume to fill inside the wheel cylinder, but the 3" shoes and 1 1/8 master cylinders provide superior stopping power.

Everything seems to revolve around the rear brakes on these trucks....if they are worn down to the rivets or way out of adjustment or they are soaked in gear lube, your brakes will SUCK no matter what you replace in the rest of the system

 

Yea i was thinking about that, I am thinking of trying this since you guys swear by it.

Literally just hook the hose up, run it in the jar with brake fluid already in it, open bleeder and just pump the brakes????

 

Yes, it's that simple, although you should do the process in the order of the fsm with reverence to position 1,2,3,4,5

Reality is, that I start at the RR, do the stupid valve above, LR then to the RT Front, then the LFT front.

Then I go back and do it all over again.

With the home made recovery, it prevents air from being sucked back into the bleeder through it's center. It does not, however prevent air from being sucked in around the threads. This is why it's so important to not open the bleeder very far. Open it to the MINIMUM you can where fluid starts to expel out (or air). The problem I found I was doing was I was opening the bleeder too far, which exposed too much thread, and allowed air to seep by during the process of bleeding.

My brakes work PERFECT, ever since I used this homemade gizmo... Thank you .... I believe MARK.



T.

 

Where did you get the brake lines ? Someone here is looking for them in another thread.


https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...s-t298699.html



T.

 

Thanks, but twern't me, I think it was one of the Canucks. It is a very old, tried and true way of doing it. It is just one of the many thing that I forgot from Auto shop in the 1960s...Mark...

 

It was trashingcows that posted the brake fluid in a bottle idea......

The stainless lines were on it when i bought it. The only thing the previous owner did right.

 

but its not christmas yet????

 

I'm running the GM cylinders and as long as the brakes are adjusted properly they work great. I even have had the abs kick in on dry pavement.

 

It is in my house.

 

Wouldn't 7/8" cylinders and 3" shoes provide the best braking power?

Sent from my rooted Velocity Ally

 

figuring just surface area the 1 3/16 inch piston applies 54% more force over the 7/8 inch piston at the same pressure.