Look what a big brown truck brought me today...

 

you will love the new spring! have you moved your throttle linkage
those two mods made such a difference in drivability, for me

 

Like this?

 

you know it!! probably could back the high idle out a bit if you wanted

 

not to steal the thread... but when looking at your picture the hex head at the top if i loosen it, can i adjust my idle by pivoting that bracket? i need to idle my truck down

 

use the "idle" screw located in the back. you can see it in that pic towards the top.

You'll have to make a wrench.

 

The ball end connectors and rod are adjustable as well. There are a bunch of folks on here that need to buy a freakin Factory Service Manual... A whole bunch...

 

i know how to adjust the idle. i just didnt know if their was a little adjustment at that bolt, thats all.

 

The only problem with indexing the "ball" linkage is when you get done, you won't have full throttle... You need to move the linkage closer to the pump to gain enough travel.

 

If you loosen that 10mm bolt, you really cant move one plate over the other due to a little bump on the lever. That is unless you grind it off.

 

I can't figure out why my quote is used here...

I never said index the throttle lever. In reference to what Crossy's son said, adjusting the idle requires adjusting the ball ends and throttle rod, along with the actual low idle screw and even the trans. TV adjustment if you have an automatic. And I still think everyone who buys a vehicle should buy a FSM too.

Full throttle travel can be obtained in a variety of ways even if you do not move your ball end etc in on the lever.

 

Took me about 1 1/2 hours. Of which probably 1/2 hour cutting and messing with a cheap 5mm allen wrench with a chop saw. Had to keep walking to the chop saw 500 feet away and back. I cut it three times and it's still to short.

I ended up taking the cover off the pump, installing the spring and removing the fuel screw completely. I managed to hold the tophat assembly in with my right finger and held the pump cover with my right hand. I then used a very long set of needle nose pliers to hook the new 366 spring through the hole on the tophat pin. The old sping said "388"? Had me nervous at first that someone already did it when I saw the painted numbers. But this new spring is clearly a heaver gauge wire.

It went right back together. I reversed the idle screw so the slot faces the radiator (why they don't have it this way stock is beyond me). I had the 2x6 ready and didn't need it. It was idling a little high but I toned it down a little and then took it up the road for a blast.

An incredible difference! The power just comes on and comes on strong! And the smoke is black as coal!


I had turned in my power screw 3 turns a while back but ended up turning it back out because I was having erratic return to idle issues. With this new spring, it seems like it even has more power than when I had the power screw in 3 turns. And when I snap the throttle, the engine returns to an idle nice and smooth like it is supposed to. I did replace the tophat spring and I don't know if the old one was just weak or if the 366 spring corrected the problem.

Oh and now I'm seeing *1150 degree readings on the EGT's climbing hills if I really get on it. Before the most I was seeing was *950. And 20 PSI boost.
This is a 2WD so it only weighs 5460LBS... it will scoot!

 

do you guys just reuse the o-ring thats on the pump assy. or do you replace it or what do you do?? does it leak after wards?? Dad would be pretty upset if it leaks after i install his spring.

 

I've only had one leak.

 

No leaks! It looks more like a square cut rubber gasket than a o-ring.

I can't believe how much power $25 created!