apwatson50

The problem is that once you get over the 83" long belt, they no longer have them in 1/2" increments, the NAPA one I posted, and the Goodyear one I posted are the only belts i've found that are in the range of length needed. Otherwise you get up into the 90+"

Ace

I figure to mock up the bracket with the belt to see what I'm dealing with. I'm not worried about making it reversible to reinstall the Denso unit, so there should be some fudge factor there. And thanks again for those part#'s Aaron - at least I'll have a good starting point!

BearKiller

Me critiquing what you write is kinda like a red-bone hound critiquing a Labrador on fetching ducks.


It does show that I am paying attention in class, though.

sdstriper

Here's another litle twist on the very early 89' Cummins trucks without A/C, if you are unfortunate enough to own one of these gems without A/C...

Pre May 1989 non a/c belt lengths 66 1/2 inch belt. After May 1989, non a/c belt length of 65 1/4 inch or 65.

The 1989 A/C belt length is 82" Jim.

I have just been on the prowl for a non a/c belt to use while working on my a/c and to have as a spare belt just in case. I found locally that a resonable priced Gatorback for a 2002' F150 Lightning uses a 66" belt that will work for us.

Machinos

I just have to share a funny little story that the previous post reminded me of.

I have a 1955 Chrysler and it had a weird Bendix brake booster that I don't think was used on any other make of car, and was only used on Chrysler for 1955. The piston for the master cylinder goes straight through the booster and is pushed on directly by the brake pedal, instead of them really being separate units.

I had to replace my booster, so I went to an old car junkyard and got a replacement booster (amazingly). No matter how much I tried it kept spewing fluid out into the booster and all over the engine compartment and I couldn't figure out why.

Finally I looked at the part numbers on the new booster and the old one. They were different numbers, and the new booster's piston was 1/32nd of an inch less in diameter. For a design only used for one year on one kind of car!

BearKiller

If I do decide to use nail-polish to cement the bushings in the alternator, I will not have to swipe any from the wife, as I bought myself a jumbo-sized bottle several years ago for just such occassions.

I haven't checked local pricing just yet.

I found this place :

http://www.industrialrebel.com/-2-ga-premium-cable.html

and the shipping is FREE.

Did you have a good source in mind ??



As for the pulleys, I bought a lot of three on E-Bay 2.76-O.D. that should be in any time now.




Your reasoning on the emergency non-A/C belt seems right; I think it will work.

BearKiller

In a push-comes-to-shove situation, a 4-, 5-, 6-, or 7-rib belt can be used, so long as it is of a reasonably close length.

It would be interesting to see just how well a 4-rib belt would perform with the A/C and all the lights ON; I bet we might be surprised.

sdstriper

Well AutoZone has one listed for the 89' CTD but says it's no longer available, so I went looking for 8 rib 66" lengths and there's a few different applications that use it, including Harley Davidsons...

BearKiller

I never buy a belt by application; I don't tell the counter guy what it goes on; I have a lot better luck by just giving them the belt number.

sdstriper

Hehe, That will minimize aggravation thats for sure...

1-5-3-6-2-4

**Subscribed**


great write up.

Nozzleman

'94 w/o A/C. Gates K080670. 67 /12"

DWitcher

I used a AC Delco 22SI alternator on my conversion and was able to use the factory fan belt. Drilled both stock mounts to 1/2". 2hr job at the most.

1-5-3-6-2-4

now someone just has to figure out how to put an AC Delco 50DN in there....... cause everyone needs 300 amps

BearKiller

Three shiny new pulleys arrived today.

I am heading to the machinist probably tomorrow to shave them to 1.350.

I sort of played with the idea of simply putting the pulley on backwards; it lines up just right when on backwards.

But, these pulleys have a rather deep counter-bore for the flat-washer/nut to nest in, and turning it around backwards leaves little support on the fat part of the shaft, due to the deep counter-bore.

I think I could get away with it; but, twenty years later, the pulley might fly through the hood of my shiny truck; so, it's off to the machine-shop I go.

Pulley O.D. is supposed to be 2.760; I haven't measured it yet; I just took their word for it.

I found brass (or are they bronze ??) spacers, but went ahead and ordered steel; they haven't arrived yet.

Still need to order the mega-fuses/holders and round up some cable.

The saga continues.