Leaking Transmission Fluid
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That is what is confusing me, I normally pull the tranny, then the flexplate. I have never pulled an auto from a Cummins, so am far from an expert. I didn't even know that you could pull the flexplate with the tranny still in. FWIW, I disconnect the Torque converter, usually 3 or 4 bolts, from the flexplate, then pull the tranny and torque converter together. Learn something new every day. I would think that you would have to assemble it separately, or it would be very difficult to torque the flexplate bolts, but what do I know?...Mark
#19
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As I do it: Remove drive shaft or shafts , transfer case, remover shifter and everything else connected to the tranny that belongs to the truck, wires, cables and such. Remove bell housing bolts, remove torque converter bolts, support rear of engine with floor jack or other, remove cross member, wriggle off tranny with it supported, be careful that the torque converter does not fall off the front, then the tranny is out. If I missed something, hopefully others will chime in...Mark Oh yeah, it helps to drain the tranny or plug the tail shaft with something so the the fluid is not all over the floor...
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Welp, got the tranny pulled and everything went incredibly smooth. Cleaned it all up and replaced the seal, which was quite worn (sorry I don't have a picture of it at the moment) went to do my rear main seal, scored the seal housing! Love how smooth it was all going until that. So instead of reinstalling the tranny tonight with a smile on my face I'm going to have to order a speedi sleeve or a new housing or rtv?? The housing where it was scored. I don't know if I can get the sleeve without also getting a new seal, and it'd be cheaper to buy a new seal housing than to buy a new rear main from cummins even without the sleeve. So we'll see where that goes tomorrow I guess.
Edit: and I apologize Mark, they were the torque converter bolts. sorry for the confusion.
Edit: and I apologize Mark, they were the torque converter bolts. sorry for the confusion.
#22
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Welp, got the tranny pulled and everything went incredibly smooth. Cleaned it all up and replaced the seal, which was quite worn (sorry I don't have a picture of it at the moment) went to do my rear main seal, scored the seal housing! Love how smooth it was all going until that. So instead of reinstalling the tranny tonight with a smile on my face I'm going to have to order a speedi sleeve or a new housing or rtv?? The housing where it was scored. I don't know if I can get the sleeve without also getting a new seal, and it'd be cheaper to buy a new seal housing than to buy a new rear main from cummins even without the sleeve. So we'll see where that goes tomorrow I guess.
Edit: and I apologize Mark, they were the torque converter bolts. sorry for the confusion.
Edit: and I apologize Mark, they were the torque converter bolts. sorry for the confusion.
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Embarrassing to say the least, but that's what happens when you're not careful I guess. I could get a new housing by Wednesday, looks like a pain to get the engine to tranny plate off.
Edit: and just something to add, the seal itself looked to be in good shape, and after removing the flywheel it looked like the leak could have been coming from the housing? This is my first time doing this, so clarification on whether or not that could be possible would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Edit: and just something to add, the seal itself looked to be in good shape, and after removing the flywheel it looked like the leak could have been coming from the housing? This is my first time doing this, so clarification on whether or not that could be possible would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
#24
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If you're just replacing the rear crankshaft seal, you don't need to remove/replace its housing.
I just replaced mine that had spun in the housing bore.
Just remove the old seal (a couple of self-tapping screws will be a big help).
Clean both surfaces and, using some clean engine oil, lubricate the crankshaft surface. The FSM says: If the new seals outer diameter is rubber, lubricate those surfaces with soapy water. If they're steel, use Locktite 277 or the equal.
The new seal may come with a crankshaft pilot-sleeve. DON'T remove it from the new seal. Just place it over the crankshaft with the seal on it.
Then drive the seal home using the depth guide that should come with the new seal.
It should end up looking something like this .. . ..
Hope this helps.
I just replaced mine that had spun in the housing bore.
Just remove the old seal (a couple of self-tapping screws will be a big help).
Clean both surfaces and, using some clean engine oil, lubricate the crankshaft surface. The FSM says: If the new seals outer diameter is rubber, lubricate those surfaces with soapy water. If they're steel, use Locktite 277 or the equal.
The new seal may come with a crankshaft pilot-sleeve. DON'T remove it from the new seal. Just place it over the crankshaft with the seal on it.
Then drive the seal home using the depth guide that should come with the new seal.
It should end up looking something like this .. . ..
Hope this helps.
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BC, thank you for the reply. So the damage to the housing won't cause oil to leak? I followed the thread on removing the old seal, and when driving in the self tappers I damaged the housing.
My new seal has rubber on the outside diameter and it did come with the pilot sleeve
My new seal has rubber on the outside diameter and it did come with the pilot sleeve
#26
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BC, thank you for the reply. So the damage to the housing won't cause oil to leak? I followed the thread on removing the old seal, and when driving in the self tappers I damaged the housing.
My new seal has rubber on the outside diameter and it did come with the pilot sleeve
My new seal has rubber on the outside diameter and it did come with the pilot sleeve
Is the damage all the way across the sealing surface of the housing? If not I believe I'd try some RTV as a lube in that spot.
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Also from looking at it earlier, the crank end is grooved from the old seal I'm assuming. My dad told me to put a wear sleeve on it before putting the new seal on and to use high heat rtv on the seal housing.
#28
My Uncle was having problems with their Dodge Ram and he wants me to research the problem, cause all the seals have been replace and yet there is a minimal leakof fluid, There are some great tips here that helped me and YOUCANIC guide on troubleshooting Dodge transmissions really helps alot
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