Leak at freeze plug before 2300 mile journey.
I would leave it alone until I got where I was going; you could very well open a bigger can of worms than you already have.
What I would do is to put the correct replacement AND one of those generic rubber swell-up plugs in the tool-box.
That way, should it pop out somewhere on the road, you can limp on in with the expandable rubber plug, knowing that you also have the real deal on hand for when push comes to shove.
I seriously doubt that plug is going anywhere for a very long time.
What I would do is to put the correct replacement AND one of those generic rubber swell-up plugs in the tool-box.
That way, should it pop out somewhere on the road, you can limp on in with the expandable rubber plug, knowing that you also have the real deal on hand for when push comes to shove.
I seriously doubt that plug is going anywhere for a very long time.

I'll take your advice, you really know these old 6BT mills.
What kind of expandable rubber plugs do you recommend ?
I picked up a couple Cummins brand metal freeze plugs when I was down at Cummins Swan Island on Thursday afternoon stocking up on a few extra fuel filters. Never know when you are gonna get some nasty old diesel along the road. I try to buy at truck stops whenever possible, but it doesn't always work out that way. I even filled up a 5 gallon can with about a B10 mixture, and a little anti-Gel. I know, I know, some people hate Biodiesel, but I like a *small* amount around 10 percent to lube my rotary pump. That darn dry ULSD has caused more rotary pumps to fail since it came out, I mean go on any forum and read one horror story after the next about pump failures caused by the dry new fuel.
The old mechanical rotary pumps relied on that higher sulfur content for lube. Speaking of which, I ought to buy some more two-stroke while I'm at it, that mixed with a little Bio has my rig running like a raped ape in the summer.
Say, BearKiller. You are a real staunch supporter and defender of the Getrag G360. I've never done any real towing with mine yet. It's always worked fine, no popping in and out of gear or anything, but it always had that groan in 4th below 40mph or so. 3rd will go all the way up to 35 or 38 mph, but the RPMs are so high it's ridiculous, so I shift on up to 4th at 35 and I'm promptly rewarded with the Getrag Groan until I top 42 mph or thereabouts. And, yes I'm indexed right and have a 366 spring in. Higher RPM before the shift helps a tiny bit, but it's still there. Above that speed it's as happy as a bird and flat out hauls butt.
So Thursday I finally got to tow around a 6x12 U Haul loaded down good and full. I mean thousands of rounds of M2 Ball, 54r, 8mm, my library (I'm a book nerd as well as a gun nut !), record collection, buncha musical instruments, tools, etc. Couple thousand pounds on top of whatever the trailer weighs.
That Getrag has Royal Purple Synchromax in it, overfilled by a quart. Still, I noticed that towing with a load on, it's a lot more crude and beastly of a tranny than when I just putter around town. It works, but that low speed 4th groan is definitely louder, and 2nd is a little clunky and stiff getting in and out of where it wasn't before. Granny gear is fine, 3rd is fine, even 5th is fine doing 60mph down the expressway. It just acts and sounds cruder.
This normal for a reasonably healthy 18 year old Getrag G360 ?
I picked up two quarts of RP just in case. Should I add half of one, just in case as well ? I mean, is it possible to over-fill the 'Rag ?
Many, many thanks again for everyone's words of wisdom.
DTR's "Cooler than ice cubes 14 miles North of North Pole" member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,797
Likes: 9
From: 14mi North of North Pole
Say, BearKiller. You are a real staunch supporter and defender of the Getrag G360. I've never done any real towing with mine yet. It's always worked fine, no popping in and out of gear or anything, but it always had that groan in 4th below 40mph or so. 3rd will go all the way up to 35 or 38 mph, but the RPMs are so high it's ridiculous, so I shift on up to 4th at 35 and I'm promptly rewarded with the Getrag Groan until I top 42 mph or thereabouts. And, yes I'm indexed right and have a 366 spring in. Higher RPM before the shift helps a tiny bit, but it's still there. Above that speed it's as happy as a bird and flat out hauls butt...............................
................This normal for a reasonably healthy 18 year old Getrag G360 ?
................This normal for a reasonably healthy 18 year old Getrag G360 ?
I second Bearkillers advice. I don't think it'll blow either. If it does you'll know it because of the coolant hitting the downpipe( makes for a big steamy event that's hard to miss). I think that the temporary rubber expandable plug will be you're best bet if something happens on the road, just because it's easier to install due to the oil cooler tank (or whatever that thing is that's mounted in front of the freeze plugs) being in the way. Note that the rubber freeze plug MUST be installed in a DRY hole. If it's wet when you install it you will earn the right to re-install it within a couple hours tops

I might even change out the Differential oil, so I guess I'd get a better look then. IIRC, that stuff is really spendy.
Handy interactive map...you can search by your zipcode too:
http://www.nearbio.com/
If all you can find near you is B100 (100 percent) I highly recommend that you do not run a mixture that pure. Instead, fill up your tank most of the way with regular diesel, then top off with the pure stuff to get the percentage between 10 and 20 percent. It'll mix just fine. I don't use higher percentages due to cold weather gelling and rubber issues. B20 and below is perfectly safe, though, I've been running it for years in different vehicles. I like about B10 (10 percent) or so.
Be warned, though, it will clean the heck out of your entire fuel system until it is as clean as the day it was made. This will plug your filter at first, if the tank is dirty and has never had bio in it. A lot of people put a cheap inline filter upstream from the $15 Cummins one, so they can change the cheap one out a couple of times.
I never had any big troubles with the bio, one or two filter changes at a more frequent interval than normal, and the filters have been fine ever since.
I have 7 tractors many trucks and cars all running 100% antifreeze (NEVER) a problem for 25 yrs and every once-in-awhile it will get -10 here but every year it hits 0, as for fuel 100% diesel if its offered but i havent hade a problem with bio, but i know alot of you have. my.02
Dar
Dar
SeanB23,
Factory FULL on a Getrag is 3.5 QTs.
I run 5-QTs 5W-30 Full Synthetic.
So long as you are at least a quart over the 3.5 you should be fine.
Not having driven/heard your particular truck, it is hard to say about whether the noise is normal or a warning of something amiss.
I can't hear it thunder, so maybe my experiences might be a little off; but, so long as I don't get ridiculous about lugging, I hardly ever hear a complaint from my transmission(s).
Factory FULL on a Getrag is 3.5 QTs.
I run 5-QTs 5W-30 Full Synthetic.
So long as you are at least a quart over the 3.5 you should be fine.
Not having driven/heard your particular truck, it is hard to say about whether the noise is normal or a warning of something amiss.
I can't hear it thunder, so maybe my experiences might be a little off; but, so long as I don't get ridiculous about lugging, I hardly ever hear a complaint from my transmission(s).
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 7,547
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From: Quinton, New Jersey (middle of nowhere)
Our 93 has the exact same groan you're speaking of Sean.
And does it at the exact same speed !! and goes away at the exact same speed!!
Maybe this means your trans will go another 100k and have as much as ours ?????
And does it at the exact same speed !! and goes away at the exact same speed!!
Maybe this means your trans will go another 100k and have as much as ours ?????
I knew there were others...
I have 7 tractors many trucks and cars all running 100% antifreeze (NEVER) a problem for 25 yrs and every once-in-awhile it will get -10 here but every year it hits 0, as for fuel 100% diesel if its offered but i havent hade a problem with bio, but i know alot of you have. my.02
Dar
Dar
Mark
SeanB23,
Factory FULL on a Getrag is 3.5 QTs.
I run 5-QTs 5W-30 Full Synthetic.
So long as you are at least a quart over the 3.5 you should be fine.
Not having driven/heard your particular truck, it is hard to say about whether the noise is normal or a warning of something amiss.
I can't hear it thunder, so maybe my experiences might be a little off; but, so long as I don't get ridiculous about lugging, I hardly ever hear a complaint from my transmission(s).
Factory FULL on a Getrag is 3.5 QTs.
I run 5-QTs 5W-30 Full Synthetic.
So long as you are at least a quart over the 3.5 you should be fine.
Not having driven/heard your particular truck, it is hard to say about whether the noise is normal or a warning of something amiss.
I can't hear it thunder, so maybe my experiences might be a little off; but, so long as I don't get ridiculous about lugging, I hardly ever hear a complaint from my transmission(s).

I am sure you already done such things as greasing U-joints, checking the rear, etc.
As for winding up the Getrag prior to shifting, you have a governor in the injection-pump that will not allow the engine to turn a higher RPM than specified; 2700 in stock form; 3200 in your case with the 366 spring.
Try winding it on out there and see if that helps; you will be able to tell when it maxxes out.
If something flies apart, it was due to anyway.
I am sure you already done such things as greasing U-joints, checking the rear, etc.
As for winding up the Getrag prior to shifting, you have a governor in the injection-pump that will not allow the engine to turn a higher RPM than specified; 2700 in stock form; 3200 in your case with the 366 spring.
Try winding it on out there and see if that helps; you will be able to tell when it maxxes out.
If something flies apart, it was due to anyway.
As for winding up the Getrag prior to shifting, you have a governor in the injection-pump that will not allow the engine to turn a higher RPM than specified; 2700 in stock form; 3200 in your case with the 366 spring.
Try winding it on out there and see if that helps; you will be able to tell when it maxxes out.
If something flies apart, it was due to anyway.

Greased the whole front end...that was an adventure. Went through FOUR defective brand new grease guns before I found one that worked. Can you believe that ? I wound up with one from a used tool place that looks like it's from the 1940s. This one, works just fine. Probably outlive me.
Haven't greased the U-Joints, that's next while I wait for that RTV on the freeze plug to dry...still not too sure about that.
Maybe if I have time I'll replace the differential fluid too...it's been a while since I did that to a vehicle, and I don't know when or even IF it's been done to this one. IIRC, it's some sort of really expensive gear oil, right ? I do remember a drain plug and a fill plug from the last time I went down that road with a Dana 70 pumpkin, and both plugs were total hell getting loose.
DTR's "Cooler than ice cubes 14 miles North of North Pole" member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,797
Likes: 9
From: 14mi North of North Pole
I don't always drive it like that but pulling a load the higher RPM is easier on the rag....






