After this winter's season's over, I'm going to do my KDP.

Nervous ? Yup ! Need to prepare myself mentally.

So far, my list from cummins is basic

1. vibration dampener #3916436 $259.26
2. Crank seal (lip type) #3937111 $32.80
3. Cam cover gasket #3914385 $28.96
4. Lift pump # 4983584 $117.17
5. LP gasket # 3939258 $2.12
6. Valve cov. gas # 3930906 $6.45 ea
7. Thermostat # 3802968 $42.86
8. Therm. Gask #3923331 $5.83
9. Water pump # 3286278 $156.84

Upper and lower hose from dodge or local parts place



Anything else you guys feel I would need to do KDP ? Wanting to do this and forget about it for a good decade or so....


TIA


T.

 

Wow...that's a little overboard just to do a KDP!!! If you're doing all that, you might as well put a serpentine belt on it too.

p.s. I don't see the KDP tab on there, or locktite for the other housing bolts. I presume you already have those though...

 

I need to do the same in the spring as well. I have the TST products kit with tab/longer bolt, crank seal with install sleave. I have read through the instructions thoroughly a couple times. I am not a fan of RTV in some motor locations so I went to my local Cummins dealer and got a timing cover gasket for $20. I also picked up a barring tool, just cause I wanted one. It will be super easy to rotate the engine to expose those couple hidden bolts for removal and loctite as well.

Arent the Geno's water pumps around $60? Any reason you are not going with one of them? I assume you are doing the water pump preventatively while in there. Is there some rubber degration, separation or wobble in your existing dampner?

Wish you were closer, we could meet and do them both together. Always great to have a second set of hands and ideas should issues come up.

 

The KDP is intimidating, I waited almost a year because I was nervous about mine. Watch YouTube videos, there's about 50 good ones. Any Cummins with a KDP is the same basic procedure to fix.
I finally did mine a few months ago and can say its really not that bad. Don't bother removing the radiator, that's second gen stuff, or for guys who have sasquatch size hands.
Lots of folks will agree with me the hardest part is the PITA bolt holding the fan on and scrubbing the grease off the cover.

Add lock tite and a pre made tab or fender washer to your list and jump into it!

 

My replies in red. It's really a simple job and you don't need all the parts listed if you're just doing that KDP. But I understand the whole "might as well while you're in there" concept. I get that mentality from my dad. I wasn't very nervous when I did mine. Granted, I practically had the entire motor apart at the time so I had no reason to be nervous about pulling the timing case cover .

Here's the list of parts for the piston lift pump:

(1) Pump | P/N 4988751 | $186.61
(1) Supply Line | P/N 3914753 | $35.74
(2) Supply Line Seals | P/N 3963983 | $1.27 ea.
(2) Gaskets | P/N 3939258 | $2.10 ea.
(1) Spacer | P/N 3914284 | $12.86

Prices as of August 2009.

 

The cooling system doesn't have to be opened to tab the KDP and re torque the case bolts. Nothing wrong with changing the hoses if you want to, though.

Sent from my HD2 using Tapatalk

 

Okay, I'm confused (what else is new? ) I was told that since Max has over 253-K on the motor I need not worry about the KDP from one Dodge guy, however, a different Dodge guy told me that my 92 does not have the KDP issue. What gives?
What is the truth to this potential day destroyer?

If I need to worry about a KDP in Max then I am going to throw myself at Faith's feet and beg her to do it with me being that she killed 72 of them and most likely she can perform this task in her sleep! .

NJTMAN: Are you talking lift pump as in fuel pump? If so, you can buy new factory pumps (sans the original box) on ebay cheaply. I bought 3 of them for $105 total a while back. The reason I bought three is that I run WVO (waste vegetable oil) and I will change out the lift pump every two years or so. WVO has a tendency to eat rubber unless you can get Vinton seals installed. I can change out a lift pump in 10-minutes now, and I also carry one as a spare in the service bed just in case.

Here is one new lift pump for around $40.00:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/89-93-DODGE-D250-D350-5-9L-DIESEL-MECHANICAL-FUEL-PUMP-/120796097979?hash=item1c20022dbb&item=120796097979 &pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

I am probably misunderstanding your lift pump on the list.

Also, last Sept, I went out to my friends place in Pa (the 5-hour drive friends). My buddy noticed that my clutch fan was worn and had a little lateral movement. So, we changed out the clutch fan and he made me buy a new water pump strictly as insurance because the hard work (removing the fan) was already done. I'm looking at the receipt from Napa, and the water pump cost $39.02. The new clutch fan from Advanced cost $56.99. Why is your water pump $156.84?

Did I do my Cummins a disservice by purchasing these parts from Advance and Napa?

When you guys correct me/teach me/scold me, please, be gentle
A very confused Doc.

 

It's really simple, if it is older than the 2003 MY and you don't know for SURE it has been tabbed, get after it.

15 K or 300 K, they can go tomorrow. You might get it apart and find out someone has already had to replace the case, you might find out the pin fell out harmlessly, or it might be waiting to fall out the next time you fire it up.

Told you it was simple.

 

"you might find out the pin fell out harmlessly"

Sorry pal, I don't have kind of luck!

Thanks for clearing this up for me.

Oh Faaaaaaaaaaith, you out there?

Whatcha doin?

Hmmmmmmm?

:-)

 

Faith stopped doing them. She was drilling a hole through the timing cover in a very exact spot with a jig and inserting a bolt that acted like a tab holding the kdp in place. It was a good method until case bolts started doing as much damage as the kdp.
I had two case bolts that I took out with my fingers alone.
Get in there and loc tite everything!

 

Just changed it when I bought the truck a few months back. I figured I'd make my own tab and pick up a new bolt at the Fastenal store I buy from.

They have every bolt imaginable.



T
Where did you get the barring tool ? I'm assuming that's the one that goes in the bellhousing and turns the engine over ???? no ??

Geno's doesn't sell "cummins" waterpumps, but aftermarket ones. Since this is a waterpump, and not just a simple belt, hose or another easy change item, I'd like to put the best parts in (engine wise)

For the record:

I'm changing the items that I listed as a "preventative maintenance" only. As of right now, nothing is malfunctioning, but as with all items that are 20 years old, they WILL eventually fail. I don't like breakdowns, so since I'm doing KDP this spring, and I have to disassemble the truck anyway, I'm changing items out that I know will eventually go bad.

I'm looking @ using all Cummins parts in the engine, as they're in there for 20 years, and still ticking, for a few extra dollars for each item, why not go with OE parts ? I've had experiences in the past of using aftermarket parts on engines, and having them fail not too long afterwords. Brakes, exhaust, belts, air filters, stuff like that, I go aftermarket.. otherwise I'm sticking with Cummins parts. Simple as that.

Thanks for reminding me of the fan clutch, as I might just do that as well.

 

Thanks


BTW, I saw the writeup on installing one in another thread. I guess this is what you replied....

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...1&postcount=85


T.

 

Cool,

Thanks for the words. I'm removing the radiator because I want to clean it out. it's a little gunked up, and I'd like to dissolve the junk in it and get it flowing better before I put it all back together again.

T.

 

Regarding the Barring tool, yes, the tool for bellhousing entry point to turn over motor. Should be covered by a rubber plug (if it hasn't fallen out). I got mine at a Cummins dealer for $40. On parts like dampners and fan clutches I personally would not replace them unless there is a physical sign to do so. Life expectancy is really random for dampners. On the 20 year old unit currently in your truck there might be another 20 years left in it. Meaning, ones that came with the truck could last 100k, 200k, 300k + ...who knows. The units in there right now could go for another 200k and alternatively, a replacement unit might go no further than your current used one will last. Plus, those items don't usually leave you stranded by the side of the road. Those items usually give advanced warning....as long as you are in the habit of inspecting stuff under the hood periodically (which I know you do :-) )

 

Fair enough...as I've been out of the auto industry for a decade and a half or so.

I guess that you saved me $200 as I'll still have to buy the barring tool.... Where do I send the check ???

When I take it out, I'll know either way.... whether there's a groove gouged in it, or the rubber strip is working its way out..... If not, I'll just clean er up and slap her back in...


Fan clutch works.... so I can live with it...


I'll be looking up youboob video's over the next couple months to review what's needed to be done.

Do I have to be concerned about the engine firing up while turning the bellhousing gear ? Can diesels start without the key on if the engine is turned over while working on them..

God that would really suck

Thanks for the help. Appreciated as always.



T.