1st Gen. Ram - All Topics Discussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.

kdp

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Old Dec 31, 2011 | 12:36 AM
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td3620's Avatar
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From: Ft.Worth Tx.
Question kdp

what do i need.to fix my kdp.all the tools.starting on it in morning.if people got pics.it help me out even more.thank ya
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Old Dec 31, 2011 | 04:48 AM
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http://www.pavementsucks.com/board/t...step-with-pics
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Old Dec 31, 2011 | 06:38 AM
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And in addition to this; go to your local nut and bolt place that sells metric bolts. Purchase four of the longest metric bolts with the same thread as the timing cover bolts. They should be about an inch and a half long. Cut off the bolt heads by using a hacksaw and deburr the sharp edges where they were cut. Take these four bolts and install them finger tight into the timing cover with two in the area of the crankshaft, one at the upper right upper corner, and the other half way up the left hand side. These are your alignment pins that you will hang the timing cover on. This prevents the front seal from getting twisted and destroyed whenever the cover decides to start flopping around due to its unbalanced design. You hang the cove, check the seal lip position as straight and simply press the cover straight back on applying pressure in the area of the crankshaft area and lower center of the timing cover. Also, starting ether makes an excellent cleaner for the end of the crankshaft.
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Old Dec 31, 2011 | 08:17 AM
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Question for Trebor

Sounds like Trebor has "been there done that" and gives good, usefull advise. You put in the studs finger tight? I understand this if you use them for guides and then take them out and replace them with bolts. If you leave them in, why just finger tight? I'll have to do my KDP at some point and if you would clarrify this I'll store it in my memory bank and thank you in advance for the advise. Maybe wouldn't hurt to add this advise to the "sticky"on KDP's. Thanks, Packratc
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Old Dec 31, 2011 | 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by packratc
Sounds like Trebor has "been there done that" and gives good, usefull advise. You put in the studs finger tight? I understand this if you use them for guides and then take them out and replace them with bolts. If you leave them in, why just finger tight? I'll have to do my KDP at some point and if you would clarrify this I'll store it in my memory bank and thank you in advance for the advise. Maybe wouldn't hurt to add this advise to the "sticky"on KDP's. Thanks, Packratc
I've done this many times. You screw them in finger tight so that they can be removed without having to use pliers or vice grips when you remove them to install the final remaining four bolts. Actually finger tight and backing out a half turn even works slightly better. They are used as a temporary installation guide to prevent the destruction that can occur if you twist the lips of the front seal as it passes over the plastic protective sleeve that normally comes with the seal. Also remember that the seal goes on dry without any lube between the seal and the crankshaft. Also do not touch the seals sealing surface. This permits the teflon to transfer between the seal surface and the crankshaft. I believe I have previously passed this information on a few times but it likely doesn't appear worthy enough to be grafted into a sticky thread.
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Old Dec 31, 2011 | 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Trebor
I believe I have previously passed this information on a few times but it likely doesn't appear worthy enough to be grafted into a sticky thread.

I believe that you can reply to the sticky thread with the info...Mark
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Old Dec 31, 2011 | 09:52 AM
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Depending on the miles on your engine you may need to seat the seal a little deeper or install a speedi sleeve
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Old Dec 31, 2011 | 05:37 PM
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From: Ft.Worth Tx.
i got about 300k on it
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 08:03 AM
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How did it go for you? Got it done ?
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