I would like to add that looking at the fittings, that 5/16 inverted flare 90* elbow is made for a 5/16 steel line, not a 3/16 line. I'm surprised it sealed properly but even at that it's not the best it could be. The solution would be to cut off the flare and remove that tube nut, install a 3/16 tube nut and reflare the line then use a 3/16 inverted flare 90* fitting like on the other side.

I believe you can buy a double flaring tool for about $70 but I haven't priced them lately. Plus with as old as these trucks are and rust being a factor the tool would come in handy many times.

Why even use the fittings if you reflare just reroute the line from the balance valve to the rear bracket that supports the hose. That's what I did.

Admittedly I haven't looked at it in person, just looking at what was posted here. It's been a long time since I used to work on these trucks every day. I've had mine for about 9 months now and just going through stuff it's bringing back memories but some are still hazy. [laugh]

I came to the same conclusion you did on the fittings. Then I thought why not eliminate the fittings as they do nothing.( sorta like I get done on some days)[laugh]

Well, the fittings are a quick and easy change out. The 5/16" fitting must be narrow enough to catch the edge of the 3/16" flare. Actually, a thin interface there would seal better than a full interface, as the metal to metal pressure would be greater.

3/16" line is terminated with nuts that have 3/8", 7/16", 1/2", and 9/16" threads. There must be mating fittings for those sizes. The ports on the MC looks they are bored with the native size for the nuts (1/2" and 9/16") then inserted to reduce the cone to 3/16".

Like everything else Mopar does, the 9/16" port is finished in a bastard thread, 20 tpi instead of 18.

Anyone that wants to send me their defective ABS hydraulic units instead of throwing it in the trash, I'll take it.

Can you fix them?

My guess would be that they are probably not bad or that there is a good core value :2cents: ...Mark

I'm going to pull one of mine apart and see what's inside. I remember reading about a forum member who pulled his apart, cleaned it, installed new O-rings, and re-assembled it. Said it worked fine after that.

Defiantly an easy fix. on mine I had the rear end out so it was easy to cut and re flare. it would be a pain if the truck were together.

That could have been me. Yes, you can take them apart and clean them and put new seals in them. They are only junk if the solenoids are bad or you have a lot of corrosion in them.

And where does one even find seals for these? Special seals or just plain oil resistant O rings?

The seals are common MS and AN part numbers. As I work on a lot of aircraft hydraulics, I had them on the shelf. Do a search on o-ring materials and you can figure out which ones will be compatible with hydraulic fluids. The rest is just measuring the sizes.

Exactly what I did. Didn't cost a dime. This is the first time in 22 years that I have had non-problematic brakes with this truck.
Now, with that being said...my truck is a 96. I believe that most of the comments involve gen 1 trucks pertaining to the location of the brain that needs to be unpluged to shut off the brake and ABS lights. Can someone tell me where this thing is on a gen 2?