HaulinBut

Micaiahfied,
Please expand on "flipping the box down and unplugging the controller". I deactivated my ABS soon after buying my truck by removing a fuse and like it MUCH better, but would sure like to turn off the warning lights too. Any other side effects to doing this?
PM me if you wish.
Thank you.

Ace

It's a 14-pin connector that plugs into the RWAL controller behind the glove box. Unplugging it just basically disables the RWAL system, including the warning light. Should be no issues as long as the dump valve is closed. But I'd characterize that as a definite "side effect" with the emphasis on *side* as in the *sideways* effect you'll see should you not be experienced with the rear wheel lockup braking bahavior that now occurs whenever you stomp on the brakes.

GIT-R-DONE

I know your not being a smart alec, Just makin sure I understand, which sometimes eludes me. Are we eliminating this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/92-Do...73278070QQrdZ1
?

wannadiesel

That's the doohickey right there. I see Redline has tore another one apart.

HaulinBut

Ace,

I thank you. Will go have a look. Not being famililar with the term RWAL, I guess I will just have to go do some "testing" to see if there is any difference from just pulling the fuse.
I have no problem with the potential of rear wheel lockup. Spent a substantial part of my youth doing handbrake turns and going sideways.

woodrat

I assume that RWAL means Rear Wheel Anti Lock.

wannadiesel

You are correct.

HaulinBut

Soon as I signed off, it dawned on me what RWAL stood for...., but this brings up another Q....Don't we have AL on both axles? I know this: before pulling the fuse, there was no stopping the truck on downhill gravel washboard, and after pulling it, I can lock em all up if I wish, or stop it in short order on the same hill.
Thanks again.

andyr354

Nope only on the rear.

Thats if it ever worked in the first place.

HaulinBut

This proves to me, once and for all how bad the anti-lock is on these (at least, on MY truck)........There was no way I could possible even approach lock-up on the fronts when the ABS kicked in on a gravel decent ....not even close,....as in decrease speed!
Though I am way against them, I am amazed there has not been a major class-action lawsuit!

Ace

I believe the only place this type of RWAL is any good is on pavement. Maybe wet pavement. But on any really slick or loose surface, I doubt you'd ever get enough pedal pressure to do much in the way of stopping before the RWAL ruined your day. They say you just stomp on it and ignore the rear end, but I find that hard to do instinctively.

hippie

I just removed the Rear Wheel Brake Valve and had a shop make me an adapter out of stainless round stock. The brake line is the same size on both sides of the valve but the fittings are different sizes. I took the valve to the shop so they would know how to make the adapter. Works great.

Steve-oh

I have a 1992 dodge d150, 3.9, 3sp auto, short bed, RWAL(only). Its an awesome truck, but it has had spongey brakes, and very little rear brake, since I bought it at auction 5 years ago. All the parts are new, but the steel lines are getting scary-rusty, and I'm going to have to replace them. Before I did, I was wondering if my spongey brakes were from a RWAL dump valve failure, so I googled it and found you guys. All the prior model years for this truck did not have RWAL, so I figured this was just a trendy-add on. My concern was that there would be too much pressure to the rear axle, if I by-passed the dump valve($500 part). It has been the most bizarre brake pedal feel ever, spongey like there was air(bled too many, many times for that at all points), then hard half way down, great front brakes, but weak-to no-rear ones. I could get hard pedal and rears if I over adjusted the rears, but then would get dragging brakes and warm rims.
I am glad I found this post, I was slowy going insane.
My question is; If i by-pass the dump valve, and disconnect the control brain, will the low fluid, or proportioning valve warning lamps still light up?
The Haynes book schematic seems to indicate yes, but I have not jumpered the Brake lamp warning switchs with the brain disconnected to find out.
And is there a severe rear over-bias when braking?, (it has a normal Mopar proportioning valve up-stream).
It looks like you guys have had good results above, I just wanted to find someone elses' results before I tried any "Wierd Science" experiments.
Thanks/Steve

farmer0_1

i had to read along fast hopefuly i am not repeating someone else. anyway we have an 87 gmc 6.2 4x4 that has a valve mounted on the rearend to the frame and as you load the pickup it brings in more rear brakes .as you unload the pickup it decreases braking to the rear end . really simple mounts and one line in and out.

bullfrog5.9

my brakes work fine i adjust the rear so it real strong and throw my RWAL box thing out the window i still stop that all that i care