jump timing a tooth? or 2? how far is too far?
 

Well since my truck is still down from redoing my fuel system and I drained my radiator to put in a new water pump I started to think and figured I oughta pull my radiator and intercooler out of the way and tab my Kdp and loctite the case bolts. I figured if I had the front cover off I might as well jump the pump gear a tooth. There's always gotta be some performance reason for me tearin things apart.[laugh] I've done a little searchin and it seems most people like them advanced a tooth and can still rotate the pump a little to fine tune it. I read BC847 went 2 teeth and likes it and I think I've heard of a few others that have too. I was figurin on just goin 1 tooth unless you guys really like the 2 tooth jump? And I just pull pump gear off and rotate it one tooth clockwise right? And move pump shaft a little to get key to slide back in? I'm pretty anxious to get my truck running again since its been over a month since I drove it but I figured this would be a good time to do all this or I probably never will otherwise.[duhhh]

Jump one tooth....if you do that and push the pump to the head you'll get nearly 30 deg. That's waaaay more than any normal person needs.

That's crazy!! She's really gonna rattle then [laugh]. Along with a 2 tooth jump, BC847 runs his pump at the stock mark, I believe, and is soon planning on the KSB spacer from M & H.

I'm at 27 deg now (via timing light) and the truck sounds horrible, just horrible below 1,500rpm.

I can't stand how clanky mine sounds when it's cold and the KSB advances having the timing spacer in there. My static is at stock too! Starts to sound normal at ~2,500RPM and above. Sure feels like it pulls good when you get on it kinda hard too but I rarely do that since it's still cold.

Is there any way that jumping a tooth could lower performance??? A while back I pulled the pump as far as it will go away from the head and now it runs better, smokes less meaning it makes a little black smoke rather than dense whitish gray under throttle, and nearly no smoke at idle compared to the HEAVY white smoke before, boosts higher now, and has better throttle response through out the rpm range than it has in a long time. Im starting to wonder if the gear is'nt a tooth or two off or somthin.

Sounds like it was too advanced (jumped many teeth) before you retarded the timing.

Well, there's only one solution to that problem... [whistle][laugh]


x2. You ever look at video's of tractors at the line waiting to pull? The exhaust puffs white 'til they put the pedal down and then it's black. All that white smoke is unburnt diesel 'cause the timing is WAAAYYYY advanced, (something like 40° :o)

Alright I was thinkin 1 tooth oughta be enough. How well would it run with it advanced a tooth and with a KSB timing spacer? And you just rotate the gear clockwise one tooth from looking at the front of the truck right?

Yes, clockwise looking at the gear housing. I think it'd be just fine with 1 tooth advanced and the timing spacer and the pump lined up with the mark on the case. IIRC, a 1 tooth jump is somewhere around 10degs.?? The timing spacer is equivalent to an 1/8" timing bump so that could be another 10degs or a little more.

1 tooth on the cam or pump is 10* at the crank.

It might honestly be easier to pull the pump and move the gear, then stick the pump back in. I have tried it with the pump still mounted and it's a PITA. The curve of the gear teeth means that the pump shaft will have to rotate as you slide the gear on. Now if you had some way of holding and turning the pump shaft as you slid the gear in, then it would be a lot easier.

Strange, the pump was pulled 3 times by 2 different mechanics, and the first time it was pulled and re-installed was the only time the truck seemed to run right, then the darn gear came off. Since then the truck has'nt been the same. Couldnt get any black smoke, just white and gray before I retarded the timing.