jack points
had to pull the wheels off the truck (one at a time!) to install new mudflaps
I have a 2-ton bottle jack that I placed under the axles but I'm pretty sure that's not the proper placement of the jack (and that sucker is pretty hard to pump to get the wheel off the ground!) I blocked the opposite wheels and was never under the truck, but I don't know what I would have done if the jack collapsed and that corner of the truck hit the ground what are the proper jacking points? |
The stock jack is a bumper jack( Please see correction below)[duhhh][duhhh]. Mine still has the original that has never been removed. I carry a high lift and use that on the bumpers. At home I use a floor jack anywhere on the axles...Mark
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Under the axle works. If I'm using a floor jack with a bigger pad on it, I usually lift from below the shock mount. With a bottle jack, you could probably get it directly under the spring perches.
As for it being hard to pump, just grab a good length of pipe and increase your mechanical leverage. |
My stock jack was one of the screw type bottle jacks with the long folding crank. Goes under either end of the axles. :confused:
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Originally Posted by BC847
(Post 2951227)
My stock jack was one of the screw type bottle jacks with the long folding crank. Goes under either end of the axles. :confused:
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Originally Posted by SORTIE
(Post 2951218)
had to pull the wheels off the truck (one at a time!) to install new mudflaps
I have a 2-ton bottle jack that I placed under the axles but I'm pretty sure that's not the proper placement of the jack (and that sucker is pretty hard to pump to get the wheel off the ground!) I blocked the opposite wheels and was never under the truck, but I don't know what I would have done if the jack collapsed and that corner of the truck hit the groundwhat are the proper jacking points? 2-ton? I use a 20-ton bottle jack when I adjust my brakes and I can lift the front and rear of the truck easily using the little stubby handle, As soon as it is lifted I slide under a 5-ton jack stand. I would be cautious of the small 2-ton jack because of its small footprint and it could slip out easily. Please please support your truck before you get under it, and never use a cinderblock. |
Originally Posted by BC847
(Post 2951227)
My stock jack was one of the screw type bottle jacks with the long folding crank.
I replaced my 6" wide OEM wheels with 7" wide Ford steelies and the tire store knuckleheads installed ordinary rubber valve stems. (BearKiller tells me E-load class tires that are sometimes pressurized to 85 psi should ALWAYS have metal valve stems.) Anyway, I lost a valve stem at 50 mph one 96* summer day here in Georgia and had to haul out the spare. The hydraulic bottle jack I had behind the seat was too tall to get under the axle with a flat tire and I wound up having to dig a hole in the dirt to set the jack down into. I promptly went and purchased a 2-stage ("double ram") hydraulic bottle jack which I now have behind my seat. It has a nice short profile and will fit under my axle even with a flat tire: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...8933_200318933 They are available in many sizes; I find the 4-ton model to be the perfect size to carry behind my seat. |
Originally Posted by james1
(Post 2951387)
That OEM bottle jack parked underneath the coolant overflow bottle is dang near impossible to get to when you need it.
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Jim Lane, you are absolutely correct: I'd have to BURN my tighty-whities if the truck collapsed near me:o
I just put a couple of Reunel bumpers on my truck and they can EASILY support the weight of the entire rig. So I will go out and buy a stand-up jack that I can use with the bumpers, AND I will buy sturdy jack stands. have you ever seen the bumper sticker "A nuclear bomb could ruin your whole day"? So could a collapsed W250 in my little driveway! |
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