Well, I finally found some time yesterday to try to figure out why my blower isn't working. Friday was in the upper 80's so I had a little more motivation. Pulled the dash out expecting to have to replace the fan switch and I found that I have no voltage at the switch. I also have no voltage at the resistor or the blower motor. I do have voltage at the fuse panel when the key is turned on. What's going on? This is driving me crazy and I don't know enough about the system to understand why I have no voltage anywhere. Where does it go when it leaves the fuse panel? ANY suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

hope this helps.
I'm trying to fix my a/c right now. No clutch engagment!! and it's going to be 100+ today!!
Good luck
Justin

 

Do you know if there is a fusible link going to the blower motor? I checked them and they all seemed good, but maybe I missed something.

 

The power comes from the Ign Switch, goes to the 30 fuse, so If the fuse is good and you have power on both sides then I would think you are good there. If you look at the picture there is a 4 way connector, it says center left of IP, don't know where it really is, that is the feed from fuse to switch, start tracing,
Also you may want to read through the sticky wire up by Jim, on how to put the blower on relays. That maybe something you want to do.
Good luck

 

That's what I've been trying to trace, is the wire from the fuse to the switch. I read Jim's writeup on the blower relay, I may do that once I figure out my voltage issue. Looking at the wires from the fan switch, they go to the resistor behind the glove compartment. My a/c seems to be working ok, I can hear the compressor cycling and the low side line is cold, so I think it's just a problem with the lack of voltage to the switch/blower motor. I hate to do it but I may just have to start ripping the wiring harness open. If you haven't noticed, me and electricity go together like oil and water

 

Jump it! From a fused wire run the power (from a known good source) to the back of the blower switch. If it all works then you know the problem is in that wire, which is sounds like it is, rather then trying to trace down a broken wire in a harness you can then make that a permanent fix!
Justin

 

Before power gets to the blower speed switch it first has to pass through the selector switch...is there power at the 10-gauge wires going in and out of the switch?

 

That's what I was trying to figure out. My selector switch seems to be working fine. When I switch it on a/c the a/c works, compressor cycles, lines get cold, etc. Before it quit working the fan switch would work intermittently. That went on for about a week and then it quit coming on altogether. But my defroster, a/c and vent were still working. Now I have no voltage at the fan switch, resistor or the blower motor.

 

I have voltage at the 10g brown wire going to the back of the selector switch. I don't have any voltage going to the 10g tan wire at the back of the selector switch. Is that the same 10g tan wire that goes to the fan switch?

 

The dark brown is from the 30a fuse.
Have you tried to put a new switch in?

 

Use a male-to-male .250 splice to jump the two 10s and see what you get. The schematic shows 'em as the in and the out for the blower. Then you'll know. Seen a lot of Chrysler blower motors that draw too much for their switches.

 

I've got voltage in on the brown but nothing coming out on the tan. I think that tan wire coming out is what feeds the fan switch. Am I right? If so, I think we have a winner! New selector switch---does that sound reasonable? If we have a unanimous consensus, I'll be giving NAPA a call tomorrow morning.

 

I'd say you found it...According to the schematic that makes the most sense; though in heat or defrost it shows continuity through the second set of contacts through to the lowest speed terminal of the resistor...If you STILL get nothing I'd say the selector took a dump on ALL the switch legs.

 

The common failure points for the blower circuit are the wire from the fuse panel.



Behind the control there is another connector.



Here is where I bypassed the blower circuit to trigger the relay.






If you ever wonder where the lamp for the heater control is, it is on the end of the Black and Orange wire.

 

If I have good voltage at the fuse panel on both sides, and voltage coming into the back of the selector switch on the 10g brown wire, but nothing coming out on the 10g tan wire, isn't that the wire that feeds the fan switch? Which would lead me to believe it is a bad selector switch. Your thoughts, Jim? You ARE the electrical guru!