Ip replacement tips.
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Registered User
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 499
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From: Texas
Ip replacement tips.
I'm getting ready to replace the ve on my truck. I know about needing a curved wrench for the mounting bolts and to watch for the key on the shaft. Is there anything else i need to know before I start. I'm trying to avoid surprises when I do this project!
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From: Prince George, BC
You will also need a puller to pop off the gear on the pump shaft in the timing case. Also depending on what type, or style of puller you have you may need to pull the fan and shroud out to have enough room. Think the nut on the pump shaft is 22mm, that comes off first, make sure you stuff some rags or towels in the case to make sure the bolt and lock nut don't drop down in the case.
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 499
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From: Texas
I'm just swapping in rebuilt one, my pump is way past the stage of a reseal.
I do have a gear puller,but it's for the gear on the p pump engines. Will that work? Also thanks for suggesting the rags to keep the stuff from falling in. I know for a fact i would have forgot to do that. Is there anything else i need tools,gaskets etc?
I do have a gear puller,but it's for the gear on the p pump engines. Will that work? Also thanks for suggesting the rags to keep the stuff from falling in. I know for a fact i would have forgot to do that. Is there anything else i need tools,gaskets etc?
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From: Ontario, CANADA
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 499
Likes: 1
From: Texas
Thanks for posting that video it answered most of my questions. I only have two questions now,where do I get the mounting gasket and would it be a good idea to put a dab of super glue on the key to hold it in place?
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Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Prince George, BC
As for the key, I just put a dab of grease to hold it in place while sliding it in. Just tip the key backwards so the front of the key is lower then the back, that way it won't get caught in the keyway and get pulled out.
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From: Sunny Southern California Land of Fruits and Nuts
Follow this procedure and you can't go wrong. The TDC pin is plastic and will break if you do not pull pin back out once TDC is located. Remember to remove VE lock bolt and install spacer before turning engine over or pump damage will result.
Disconnect throttle linkage at the pump lever ball stud and remove the throttle linkage bracket and return springs (Figure 2).
Caution: Do not remove the pump control lever from the pump as it is indexed to the shaft during pump calibration.
Remove the air fuel control tube (Figure 3).
Caution: DO NOT bend any fuel tubes.
Remove the low pressure supply line from the pump and the separator filter (Figure 4).
Disconnect the fuel drain manifold and remove the hold-down clamp bolt located behind the high pressure lines (Figure 5).
Label and disconnect the electrical wires to the fuel shut off valve, KSB solenoid and for automatic transmission only, the throttle position sensor.
Note: Two wires to fuel shut-off valve are interchangeable.
Disconnect the six high pressure lines at the rear of the pump using an injector fuel line crowfoot such as Mac #CHBM17, Matco #WCFS17M or Snap-On #FRHM17 (Figure 6).
Caution: Note each fuel line-to-pump outlet location to assure that the high pressure lines are installed onto the new pump properly.
Remove the oil dipstick and the top engine cover. Remove the four bracket bolts at the top of the manifold holding the two fuel bundles (Figure 7).
Disconnect the fuel tubes from the injectors using an injector fuel line socket such as Mac #COBR17, Matco #WCFM1517 or Snap-On #FRXM17. Remove the fuel line bundle for injectors 1, 2 and 3, then rotate the fuel bundle for injectors 4, 5 and 6 down to gain additional clearance at the rear of the pump (Figure 7).
Remove the top 2 bolts, and the bottom bolt, of the pump support bracket. Then loosen the remaining bolt (located behind the power steering pump) and swing bracket rearward (Figure 8).
Remove the oil filler bracket bolt and unscrew filler tube from base. Unscrew filler base from gear housing cover (Figure 9).
Remove pump drive gear retaining nut and washer (Figure 9).
Caution: Place towel under gear nut before removing it to make sure that nut, washer or drive key do not drop into gear housing.
Pull the fuel injection pump drive gear loose from the pump drive shaft using a T-bar puller such as Cummins #ST-647, Miller #L-4407A or Snap-On #CG606-BB (Figure 10). Remove T-bar puller from gear.
Note: Use 8mm x 1.25mm screws to attach puller to pump gear.
Remove the three pump-to-housing mounting nuts and remove the fuel injection pump from the mounting studs (Figure 11).
Note: Use an offset 13mm wrench to remove the lower inboard nut, such as Cummins #3377198 or Snap-On #SP144.
Caution: Use care when removing pump so that the drive key does not drop into the gear housing (Figure 11).
Remove the special washer wired to the replacement pump and set it aside for later use. Then transfer linkage ball stud on old pump throttle lever to the replacement pump throttle lever.
Vehicles equipped with automatic transmission only: Remove the three allen screws attaching the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) and bracket assembly to the old injection pump top cover. Remove the old TPS from the bracket and save the TPS adapter, screws and bracket for installation onto the replacement injection pump (Figure 12 and Figure 13).
Set old pump aside to drain for a minimum of ten minutes, then plug all orifices. ALL PUMPS MUST BE RETURNED TO THE WARRANTY MATERIAL RETURN CENTER. Use the replacement pump packaging for return shipment.
Install Replacement Fuel Injection Pump
Vehicles equipped with automatic transmission only: Remove the three top cover screws from the replacement pump and install them into the old pump (old pump allen screws are longer and required for the TPS bracket).
Install the TPS bracket onto the replacement pump using the allen screws from the old pump. Insert the hex on the bottom of the TPS adapter into the hex in the replacement pump throttle lever, making sure to engage the adapter tang into the notched area of the bracket (Figure 13). Install the provided TPS onto the bracket making sure to insert the slotted end of the TPS adapter into the notched area of the TPS.
The TPS adapter must engage the throttle lever hex and the TPS notch with the TPS and throttle levers spring loaded to the low idle position. (TPS will be adjusted after pump installation is complete).
Spray the Top Dead Center (TDC) lock pin with Mopar MP-50, PN 4549626, to assure proper operation. Push the pin in and pull it out several times until it moves freely (Figure 14).
Remove plastic plug at the lower right of transmission adapter housing and use a barring tool such as Cummins #3377371, Miller #7471A or Snap-On #SP371 to rotate engine in a clockwise direction (as viewed when facing the front of the engine) (Figure 14).
Note: To rotate the engine in a clockwise direction, the barring tool must be rotated in a counter-clockwise direction as viewed from the front of the engine.
Locate the number one cylinder Top Dead Center (TDC) position of the compression stroke by watching the key-way of the pump drive gear. Slowly rotate the engine and push in on the TDC lock pin when the drive gear key-way approaches the 6:00 position. The engine will be at TDC of the compression stroke when the lock pin engages the hole in the cam gear with the drive gear key-way at about the 5:30 position (Figures 14 & 15).
Caution: Rotate engine with a barring tool only. Do NOT use starter motor. STOP barring the engine IMMEDIATELY when the TDC lock pin "SNAPS" into the cam gear hole.
If the pump drive gear key-way passes the 4:30 position and the lock pin has not engaged the cam gear, rotate the engine counter-clockwise (rotate barring tool clockwise) to the 7:00 O'clock position and repeat this step. DO NOT ENGAGE THE LOCK PIN INTO THE CAM GEAR WHILE ROTATING THE ENGINE IN THE COUNTER-CLOCKWlSE DIRECTION AS PUMP-TO-ENGINE TIMING WILL BE AFFECTED.
Remove the barring tool, install the plastic plug into the access hole and pull the TDC lock pin out of the cam gear hole. DO NOT MOVE THE ENGINE ONCE THE NUMBER 1 TDC COMPRESSION STROKE POSITION IS SET.
Caution: Be sure to PULL TDC LOCK PIN OUT of cam gear or pin will be sheared off.
Remove the old injection pump mounting gasket. Clean the sealing surface and install the provided gasket (Figure 16).
Install the injection pump onto the mounting studs and finger tighten the three pump mounting nuts. The pump must be free to rotate in the slots (Figure 17). Make sure the key doesn't fall into the gear housing.
Caution: To prevent slippage, spray the pump drive shaft and drive gear with Mopar Brake Cleaner, PN 4318037, to assure both are clean and free of all oil before installation.
Note: The shaft of the replacement pump is locked so that the key aligns with the drive gear key-way when cylinder number one is at TDC of the compression stroke.
Install the pump drive gear nut and spring washer and torque to 18 ft-lbs (24 N•M). The pump may rotate slightly when tightening the pump drive nut because of the gear lash between the pump drive gear and cam gear. This movement is acceptable providing the entire pump moves within the mounting stud slots and there is no pump shaft-to-pump housing movement (Figure 18).
Caution: DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN PUMP DRIVE GEAR NUT. The replacement pump shaft is locked in position to eliminate the need to set pump-to-engine timing. This is NOT the final torque for the drive gear.
Gently rotate the fuel pump against the direction of drive rotation to take up any gear lash as shown in figure 19. Evenly tighten the pump mounting stud nuts to 108 in-lbs (12 N•M), then to a final torque of 18 ft-lbs (24 N•M).
Caution: DO NOT APPLY HEAVY ROTATIONAL FORCE on pump after gear backlash is removed as this may preload the pump and affect pump-to-engine timing.
Use a chisel or equivalent tool to permanently mark the injection pump mounting flange to match the existing mark on the gear housing (Figure 20).
Unlock the fuel injection pump shaft by loosening the lock screw as shown in figure 21. Insert the special washer (previously removed from the pump) under the lock screw, then torque the lock screw to 10 ft-Ibs (13 N•M).
Tighten the pump drive gear retaining nut to a final torque of 48 ft-lbs (65 N•M) as shown in figure 22. Remove towel previously placed in drive gear area.
Screw the oil filler base into the gear housing cover, then screw the filler tube into the base and tighten bracket bolt (Figure 9).
Install the fuel drain manifold (banjo) fitting to the pump using the new bolt and sealing washers provided with the replacement pump and torque bolt to 24 ft-lbs (32 N•M). Install the fuel tube hold-down clamp bolt and torque to 18 ft-lbs (24 N•M) (Figure 5).
Note: The new banjo bolt provided with the replacement pump has a calibrated bleed which is matched to the replacement pump. DO NOT reuse the old bolt or sealing washers.
Install the fuel supply line to the pump and torque fitting to 24 ft-lbs (32 N•M). Install the other end of the supply line to the separator filter using the new sealing washers provided. Leave this banjo bolt finger tight until after the fuel system has been purged of air (Figure 4).
Install the high pressure fuel lines to the pump and torque to 22 ft-lbs (30 N•M) (Figure 6). Install the fuel lines to each injector, but DO NOT tighten the fuel lines at the injectors until the fuel system has been purged of air.
Caution: Be sure that each fuel line is installed onto the same pump outlet port position from which it was removed. Prevent the injection pump delivery valve holders from turning when installing the lines onto the pump.
Note: THOROUGHLY clean the high pressure fuel lines with Mopar Brake Parts Cleaner, PN 4318037, to make sure NO debris is present before installing the fuel lines onto the injectors or fuel pump.
Coat the four bolts used to secure the fuel line support brackets with Mopar Silicone Sealer (RTV), PN 4318025, then install and torque the bolts to 18 ft-lbs (24 N•M) as shown in figure 7. Install the oil dipstick and top engine cover.
Note: Failure to apply sealant to the mounting bolts can result in an air intake leak.
Install the air fuel control tube (Figure 3).
Connect the electrical wires to the fuel shut off valve, KSB solenoid and for automatic transmission only, the throttle position sensor.
Note: Two wires to fuel shut-off valve are interchangeable.
Swing the pump support bracket into position and torque the 4 bolts to 18 ft-Ibs (24 N•M) (Figure 8).
Install the throttle bracket and torque bolts to 18 ft-lbs (24 N•M). Install throttle linkage onto pump lever ball stud and install the throttle return springs (Figure 2).
Inspect the closed throttle and wide open throttle accelerator linkage travel stops. Verify that the pump throttle lever contacts the low idle speed screw in the closed throttle position. With the aid of an assistant, depress accelerator pedal to the wide open throttle position. Verify that spring loaded breakover lever has moved off the stop and is against the break-over spring (Figure 23).
If the pump stops are not as described, adjust the linkage using the "Throttle Linkage Adjustment - Diesel Engine" procedure in the service manual.
Loosen the low pressure supply line banjo bolt and bleed screw at the separator filter and operate the hand lever on the lift pump until the fuel flowing from the fitting is free of air. Then torque the separator filter banjo bolt to 24 ft-Ibs (32 N•M) and the bleed screw to 72 in-lbs (8 N•M) (Figure 24).
Loosen all six fuel tube connections at the injectors and operate the hand lever of the lift pump until fuel is observed coming out one of the high pressure fuel lines at the injectors or until lift pump lever has been pumped a minimum of 30 seconds, whichever occurs first. (Figure 25).
Reconnect battery.
With the fuel tube connections still loose at all injectors and the transmission in neutral or park, crank the engine to allow entrapped air to bleed from the fuel lines (Figure 25). Tighten all injector fuel line connections.
Caution:
The pressure of the fuel in the line is sufficient to penetrate the skin (59,000 kpa/8,000 psi) and cause serious bodily harm. Wear safety goggles and adequate protective clothing and do not allow contact with fuel spray when bleeding high pressure lines.
Place the transmission in neutral or park and set the parking brake before engaging starter motor.
When using the starter motor to purge air from the system, do not engage it for more than 30 seconds at a time and wait two minutes between engagements.
Start the engine and purge air from each injector fuel tube connection one line at a time until the engine runs smoothly (Figure 25). Tighten all injector fuel line connections to 18 ft-lbs (24 N•M) using an injector fuel line socket such as Mac #COBR17, Matco #WCFM1517 or Snap-On #FRXM17.
Caution: do not bleed air from the fuel system of a hot engine. Do not allow fuel to spray onto the exhaust manifold when bleeding air from the fuel system.
Connect an optical tachometer to the engine such as Cummins #3377462, or Snap-On #MT139 (1992-93 models may use DRB II). Prepare the vehicle for an idle check as follows:
apply parking brake,
make sure throttle lever is against the low idle speed stop screw,
turn the air conditioner ON, if equipped,
bring the engine to full operating temperature.
automatic transmission in drive, if equipped,
Check and adjust the engine low idle speed to 750 + 50 RPM, if necessary (Figure 26).
Vehicles equipped with automatic transmission only: Check and adjust the throttle position sensor (TPS) as follows (Figure 27):
The injection pump throttle lever must be in the low idle position and the throttle lever must reach breakover when the throttle is wide open, turn the ignition key to the ON position,
connect the negative lead of the voltmeter to a good ground (1991 1/2-93 models may use DRB II),
insert the positive lead of the voltmeter to the center (output) wire of the TPS electrical connector (leave connector attached to TPS),
with the throttle lever contacting the low idle screw, the TPS output voltage should be 1 volt ± 0.05 volt,
adjust the closed throttle TPS setting, if required, by gently rotating the nylon adapter until the correct voltage is obtained
open the throttle lever to the wide open position
the TPS output voltage should increase a minimum of 2.25 volts from the closed throttle position voltage.
if TPS required adjustment, disconnect the battery negative cable for 2 minutes to reset adaptive memory, then reconnect the battery
Disconnect throttle linkage at the pump lever ball stud and remove the throttle linkage bracket and return springs (Figure 2).
Caution: Do not remove the pump control lever from the pump as it is indexed to the shaft during pump calibration.
Remove the air fuel control tube (Figure 3).
Caution: DO NOT bend any fuel tubes.
Remove the low pressure supply line from the pump and the separator filter (Figure 4).
Disconnect the fuel drain manifold and remove the hold-down clamp bolt located behind the high pressure lines (Figure 5).
Label and disconnect the electrical wires to the fuel shut off valve, KSB solenoid and for automatic transmission only, the throttle position sensor.
Note: Two wires to fuel shut-off valve are interchangeable.
Disconnect the six high pressure lines at the rear of the pump using an injector fuel line crowfoot such as Mac #CHBM17, Matco #WCFS17M or Snap-On #FRHM17 (Figure 6).
Caution: Note each fuel line-to-pump outlet location to assure that the high pressure lines are installed onto the new pump properly.
Remove the oil dipstick and the top engine cover. Remove the four bracket bolts at the top of the manifold holding the two fuel bundles (Figure 7).
Disconnect the fuel tubes from the injectors using an injector fuel line socket such as Mac #COBR17, Matco #WCFM1517 or Snap-On #FRXM17. Remove the fuel line bundle for injectors 1, 2 and 3, then rotate the fuel bundle for injectors 4, 5 and 6 down to gain additional clearance at the rear of the pump (Figure 7).
Remove the top 2 bolts, and the bottom bolt, of the pump support bracket. Then loosen the remaining bolt (located behind the power steering pump) and swing bracket rearward (Figure 8).
Remove the oil filler bracket bolt and unscrew filler tube from base. Unscrew filler base from gear housing cover (Figure 9).
Remove pump drive gear retaining nut and washer (Figure 9).
Caution: Place towel under gear nut before removing it to make sure that nut, washer or drive key do not drop into gear housing.
Pull the fuel injection pump drive gear loose from the pump drive shaft using a T-bar puller such as Cummins #ST-647, Miller #L-4407A or Snap-On #CG606-BB (Figure 10). Remove T-bar puller from gear.
Note: Use 8mm x 1.25mm screws to attach puller to pump gear.
Remove the three pump-to-housing mounting nuts and remove the fuel injection pump from the mounting studs (Figure 11).
Note: Use an offset 13mm wrench to remove the lower inboard nut, such as Cummins #3377198 or Snap-On #SP144.
Caution: Use care when removing pump so that the drive key does not drop into the gear housing (Figure 11).
Remove the special washer wired to the replacement pump and set it aside for later use. Then transfer linkage ball stud on old pump throttle lever to the replacement pump throttle lever.
Vehicles equipped with automatic transmission only: Remove the three allen screws attaching the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) and bracket assembly to the old injection pump top cover. Remove the old TPS from the bracket and save the TPS adapter, screws and bracket for installation onto the replacement injection pump (Figure 12 and Figure 13).
Set old pump aside to drain for a minimum of ten minutes, then plug all orifices. ALL PUMPS MUST BE RETURNED TO THE WARRANTY MATERIAL RETURN CENTER. Use the replacement pump packaging for return shipment.
Install Replacement Fuel Injection Pump
Vehicles equipped with automatic transmission only: Remove the three top cover screws from the replacement pump and install them into the old pump (old pump allen screws are longer and required for the TPS bracket).
Install the TPS bracket onto the replacement pump using the allen screws from the old pump. Insert the hex on the bottom of the TPS adapter into the hex in the replacement pump throttle lever, making sure to engage the adapter tang into the notched area of the bracket (Figure 13). Install the provided TPS onto the bracket making sure to insert the slotted end of the TPS adapter into the notched area of the TPS.
The TPS adapter must engage the throttle lever hex and the TPS notch with the TPS and throttle levers spring loaded to the low idle position. (TPS will be adjusted after pump installation is complete).
Spray the Top Dead Center (TDC) lock pin with Mopar MP-50, PN 4549626, to assure proper operation. Push the pin in and pull it out several times until it moves freely (Figure 14).
Remove plastic plug at the lower right of transmission adapter housing and use a barring tool such as Cummins #3377371, Miller #7471A or Snap-On #SP371 to rotate engine in a clockwise direction (as viewed when facing the front of the engine) (Figure 14).
Note: To rotate the engine in a clockwise direction, the barring tool must be rotated in a counter-clockwise direction as viewed from the front of the engine.
Locate the number one cylinder Top Dead Center (TDC) position of the compression stroke by watching the key-way of the pump drive gear. Slowly rotate the engine and push in on the TDC lock pin when the drive gear key-way approaches the 6:00 position. The engine will be at TDC of the compression stroke when the lock pin engages the hole in the cam gear with the drive gear key-way at about the 5:30 position (Figures 14 & 15).
Caution: Rotate engine with a barring tool only. Do NOT use starter motor. STOP barring the engine IMMEDIATELY when the TDC lock pin "SNAPS" into the cam gear hole.
If the pump drive gear key-way passes the 4:30 position and the lock pin has not engaged the cam gear, rotate the engine counter-clockwise (rotate barring tool clockwise) to the 7:00 O'clock position and repeat this step. DO NOT ENGAGE THE LOCK PIN INTO THE CAM GEAR WHILE ROTATING THE ENGINE IN THE COUNTER-CLOCKWlSE DIRECTION AS PUMP-TO-ENGINE TIMING WILL BE AFFECTED.
Remove the barring tool, install the plastic plug into the access hole and pull the TDC lock pin out of the cam gear hole. DO NOT MOVE THE ENGINE ONCE THE NUMBER 1 TDC COMPRESSION STROKE POSITION IS SET.
Caution: Be sure to PULL TDC LOCK PIN OUT of cam gear or pin will be sheared off.
Remove the old injection pump mounting gasket. Clean the sealing surface and install the provided gasket (Figure 16).
Install the injection pump onto the mounting studs and finger tighten the three pump mounting nuts. The pump must be free to rotate in the slots (Figure 17). Make sure the key doesn't fall into the gear housing.
Caution: To prevent slippage, spray the pump drive shaft and drive gear with Mopar Brake Cleaner, PN 4318037, to assure both are clean and free of all oil before installation.
Note: The shaft of the replacement pump is locked so that the key aligns with the drive gear key-way when cylinder number one is at TDC of the compression stroke.
Install the pump drive gear nut and spring washer and torque to 18 ft-lbs (24 N•M). The pump may rotate slightly when tightening the pump drive nut because of the gear lash between the pump drive gear and cam gear. This movement is acceptable providing the entire pump moves within the mounting stud slots and there is no pump shaft-to-pump housing movement (Figure 18).
Caution: DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN PUMP DRIVE GEAR NUT. The replacement pump shaft is locked in position to eliminate the need to set pump-to-engine timing. This is NOT the final torque for the drive gear.
Gently rotate the fuel pump against the direction of drive rotation to take up any gear lash as shown in figure 19. Evenly tighten the pump mounting stud nuts to 108 in-lbs (12 N•M), then to a final torque of 18 ft-lbs (24 N•M).
Caution: DO NOT APPLY HEAVY ROTATIONAL FORCE on pump after gear backlash is removed as this may preload the pump and affect pump-to-engine timing.
Use a chisel or equivalent tool to permanently mark the injection pump mounting flange to match the existing mark on the gear housing (Figure 20).
Unlock the fuel injection pump shaft by loosening the lock screw as shown in figure 21. Insert the special washer (previously removed from the pump) under the lock screw, then torque the lock screw to 10 ft-Ibs (13 N•M).
Tighten the pump drive gear retaining nut to a final torque of 48 ft-lbs (65 N•M) as shown in figure 22. Remove towel previously placed in drive gear area.
Screw the oil filler base into the gear housing cover, then screw the filler tube into the base and tighten bracket bolt (Figure 9).
Install the fuel drain manifold (banjo) fitting to the pump using the new bolt and sealing washers provided with the replacement pump and torque bolt to 24 ft-lbs (32 N•M). Install the fuel tube hold-down clamp bolt and torque to 18 ft-lbs (24 N•M) (Figure 5).
Note: The new banjo bolt provided with the replacement pump has a calibrated bleed which is matched to the replacement pump. DO NOT reuse the old bolt or sealing washers.
Install the fuel supply line to the pump and torque fitting to 24 ft-lbs (32 N•M). Install the other end of the supply line to the separator filter using the new sealing washers provided. Leave this banjo bolt finger tight until after the fuel system has been purged of air (Figure 4).
Install the high pressure fuel lines to the pump and torque to 22 ft-lbs (30 N•M) (Figure 6). Install the fuel lines to each injector, but DO NOT tighten the fuel lines at the injectors until the fuel system has been purged of air.
Caution: Be sure that each fuel line is installed onto the same pump outlet port position from which it was removed. Prevent the injection pump delivery valve holders from turning when installing the lines onto the pump.
Note: THOROUGHLY clean the high pressure fuel lines with Mopar Brake Parts Cleaner, PN 4318037, to make sure NO debris is present before installing the fuel lines onto the injectors or fuel pump.
Coat the four bolts used to secure the fuel line support brackets with Mopar Silicone Sealer (RTV), PN 4318025, then install and torque the bolts to 18 ft-lbs (24 N•M) as shown in figure 7. Install the oil dipstick and top engine cover.
Note: Failure to apply sealant to the mounting bolts can result in an air intake leak.
Install the air fuel control tube (Figure 3).
Connect the electrical wires to the fuel shut off valve, KSB solenoid and for automatic transmission only, the throttle position sensor.
Note: Two wires to fuel shut-off valve are interchangeable.
Swing the pump support bracket into position and torque the 4 bolts to 18 ft-Ibs (24 N•M) (Figure 8).
Install the throttle bracket and torque bolts to 18 ft-lbs (24 N•M). Install throttle linkage onto pump lever ball stud and install the throttle return springs (Figure 2).
Inspect the closed throttle and wide open throttle accelerator linkage travel stops. Verify that the pump throttle lever contacts the low idle speed screw in the closed throttle position. With the aid of an assistant, depress accelerator pedal to the wide open throttle position. Verify that spring loaded breakover lever has moved off the stop and is against the break-over spring (Figure 23).
If the pump stops are not as described, adjust the linkage using the "Throttle Linkage Adjustment - Diesel Engine" procedure in the service manual.
Loosen the low pressure supply line banjo bolt and bleed screw at the separator filter and operate the hand lever on the lift pump until the fuel flowing from the fitting is free of air. Then torque the separator filter banjo bolt to 24 ft-Ibs (32 N•M) and the bleed screw to 72 in-lbs (8 N•M) (Figure 24).
Loosen all six fuel tube connections at the injectors and operate the hand lever of the lift pump until fuel is observed coming out one of the high pressure fuel lines at the injectors or until lift pump lever has been pumped a minimum of 30 seconds, whichever occurs first. (Figure 25).
Reconnect battery.
With the fuel tube connections still loose at all injectors and the transmission in neutral or park, crank the engine to allow entrapped air to bleed from the fuel lines (Figure 25). Tighten all injector fuel line connections.
Caution:
The pressure of the fuel in the line is sufficient to penetrate the skin (59,000 kpa/8,000 psi) and cause serious bodily harm. Wear safety goggles and adequate protective clothing and do not allow contact with fuel spray when bleeding high pressure lines.
Place the transmission in neutral or park and set the parking brake before engaging starter motor.
When using the starter motor to purge air from the system, do not engage it for more than 30 seconds at a time and wait two minutes between engagements.
Start the engine and purge air from each injector fuel tube connection one line at a time until the engine runs smoothly (Figure 25). Tighten all injector fuel line connections to 18 ft-lbs (24 N•M) using an injector fuel line socket such as Mac #COBR17, Matco #WCFM1517 or Snap-On #FRXM17.
Caution: do not bleed air from the fuel system of a hot engine. Do not allow fuel to spray onto the exhaust manifold when bleeding air from the fuel system.
Connect an optical tachometer to the engine such as Cummins #3377462, or Snap-On #MT139 (1992-93 models may use DRB II). Prepare the vehicle for an idle check as follows:
apply parking brake,
make sure throttle lever is against the low idle speed stop screw,
turn the air conditioner ON, if equipped,
bring the engine to full operating temperature.
automatic transmission in drive, if equipped,
Check and adjust the engine low idle speed to 750 + 50 RPM, if necessary (Figure 26).
Vehicles equipped with automatic transmission only: Check and adjust the throttle position sensor (TPS) as follows (Figure 27):
The injection pump throttle lever must be in the low idle position and the throttle lever must reach breakover when the throttle is wide open, turn the ignition key to the ON position,
connect the negative lead of the voltmeter to a good ground (1991 1/2-93 models may use DRB II),
insert the positive lead of the voltmeter to the center (output) wire of the TPS electrical connector (leave connector attached to TPS),
with the throttle lever contacting the low idle screw, the TPS output voltage should be 1 volt ± 0.05 volt,
adjust the closed throttle TPS setting, if required, by gently rotating the nylon adapter until the correct voltage is obtained
open the throttle lever to the wide open position
the TPS output voltage should increase a minimum of 2.25 volts from the closed throttle position voltage.
if TPS required adjustment, disconnect the battery negative cable for 2 minutes to reset adaptive memory, then reconnect the battery
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,387
Likes: 6
From: Ida Grove, IA
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 53
Likes: 1
From: San Jose, CA
I just did mine.
You will need crow flare tubing wrenches to get the 6 fuel lines off of the rear of the pump.
The key is a fairly tight fit into the pump shaft. Check yours for fit before you attempt to install it.
You have to set your engine to top dead center when you put in a new pump since it's set to top dead center out of the box.
Mike
You will need crow flare tubing wrenches to get the 6 fuel lines off of the rear of the pump.
The key is a fairly tight fit into the pump shaft. Check yours for fit before you attempt to install it.
You have to set your engine to top dead center when you put in a new pump since it's set to top dead center out of the box.
Mike
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Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 205
Likes: 10
From: Oakland
Zombie thread revival!
Hi All,
I'm about to swap in a freshly rebuilt pump, and have sourced the various tools I need, have gasket, and am almost ready.
Except:
I'm looking for fresh crush washers for the "Fuel drain manifold banjo bolt"
As seen at the very end of Part 2, and beginning of Part 3 in these videos
Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Thanks
-mickey
Hi All,
I'm about to swap in a freshly rebuilt pump, and have sourced the various tools I need, have gasket, and am almost ready.
Except:
I'm looking for fresh crush washers for the "Fuel drain manifold banjo bolt"
As seen at the very end of Part 2, and beginning of Part 3 in these videos
Part 1
Thanks
-mickey
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From: Oakland
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From: Commerce, OK
Just my 2 cents. Stake the key in the shaft to keep it from falling out since it will be at the bottom when the pump is locked at TDC. Use a steering wheel puller from Harbor Freight tools to pull the gear. Otherwise follow the procedure in the videos and you won't go wrong. Bleed the fuel filter then the pump at the return line and finally at the injectors until you see fuel spraying out of the loose injector lines. Then tighten them down and start it up.
Edwin
Edwin
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