I know this has been beat to death, but I just wanted to get some input from someone with real world experience. I am going to purchase either DAP's 5x.012 or 5x.014 next week. These are going on my dually, manual transmission. It will be my daily driver, some towing. I am also getting a piston lift pump and M&H timing spacer. I'm holding off on the 366 spring for now. I will turn my pump up some, don't know how much yet. It depends on how the injectors do. I'll also put my home-cut fuel pin in. My question is, will Gillette's 60mm 16cm2 turbo upgrade keep up with the 5x.014's? Or would I be better off sticking with the .012's? I'd like to hear from someone with a similar setup and real world experience. I know there are better turbo options, but unless someone is feeling generous, I have to keep the cost reasonable. Thanks guys!
Rick

 

From what I've learned for my goal of 250-275HP the 60mm upgrade with the stock injectors (or even 5x12) will be sufficient. But you will have to turn your pump to the max and tune it. Beyond that (300hp +) other upgrades will be necessary, like higher cap lift pump, turbo, injectors, studs, etc.

My next upgrade will be the GDS upgrade, and if I'm not satisfied I might upgrade my inj nozzles to 5x12.

What's your HP goal?

 

I don't have a figure in my head, per se. If I had to give a number, it would probably be in the 275 range.

 

275 hp can be done with the stock setup, especially with a manual . If your truck only has 95 k miles and runs fine then I would wait on the injectors and look at air and fuel supply. If you are running a bone stock manual then you have plenty of tuning to do that will put a big grin on your face and wake that truck up.

Do you have gauges yet? If so turn up your pump and see what you think. Add a fuel pressure gauge too and see that you need a better fuel supply before you get bigger injectors. If you cut your fuel pin then you will probably not have enough air on the top end once the stock Turbo leaves its efficiency range and starts pushing piping hot air.

There was just a post on this a few weeks ago, might want to look at that and see what you think. If your looking for black smoke then your on the right path, if you want more power for your dollar then you might want to look at air and lift pump.

This is based on my real world experience with 293k on most likely stock injectors and an auto trans that I have no past history on. I bought a 351cw Turbo for it rather than injectors because even with an auto trans it can leave a trail when stomping on it. My stock manual with 240k could black out the sun, it dynod 273 hp on 100% biodiesel. That was with a stock lift pump and no extra timing.

Sorry for the long post.

 

Tater, thanks for the info.

Do you think the GDS 60mm upgrade perform to 275hp like the He351cw with stock lift pump, stock injectors, and 18cm exhaust housing?

With my stock tweaked IP, my H1C pushes up to 30psi but a little high on the egt. Id like to lower egt by at least 100F. Also, my timing is advanced (it smokes unless advanced). I'm thinking the 60mm upgrade will solve the egt.

What do you think?

 

Good info. The only reason I'm buying injectors is because when I bought the truck recently, I had the injectors pop tested and they were way off, and it's going to cost me $250 to get them reset. So I figured, if I'm going to spend $250 on stock injectors, why not just put a little more to it and get bigger injectors so I have something to build on later. In my sig is the setup on my other truck, which is an auto with a lot of miles. I'm running stock injectors but it still puts a smile on my face when I stomp on it. So I know stock injectors will work, I'm just thinking about a building block for future upgrades.

 

I don't think the 60mm upgrade will perform like the 351cw but it is close.

I think the real advantage of the 351cw is for manual trucks, spool up.

I can leave some black smoke at 40psi and stock inj. with my 351cw so we have lots of fuel with stock sticks.

 

5X12s are okay, having your 6x9s reworked and flow honed are better. Any improvement to the H1C is an improvement, just don't go any smaller than a 16 on the turbine side. If you keep the pump adjustments mild, it will give you a fairly good combo driver. Turn it up for go fast, turn it down for towing.

 

Well, having my old injectors re-worked are no longer an option. Are you ready for the dumb move of the year? I had my old injectors in a zip lock bag on my bumper when I was doing some work to the other truck and...you know what's coming...I forgot they were there and left to go pick up a part. Bye bye injectors, bye bye $150 core charge for new ones. I'm still sick about it. But I guess really what I'm looking for is: Are 5x.014 too much injector for 60mm GDS and a piston lift pump to handle? Should I stick with 5x.012, or is there not enough difference to matter?

 

Thanks for sharing re: stock injector fueling. It makes me conclude i dont need to upgrade my stock injectors. What i need is a little more air and the 60mm upgrade should give me that to 275hp.

Biltit, what lift pump are you using?

 

Stick with 5x12's. I have 5x14's waiting when i install my compound turbo setup. I am more concerned with towing than play though so it depends how much you tow and for how long. I pull ~12K (camper+boat) every summer for my holidays.

ClassA4x4:

Hp piston pump converted to low pressure spring, i run 10-11psi at idle and about 4-6psi WOT.

 

I'm going to second the 5x12s.

And when you want a real turbo a 60/68/.8 will be a good option.

Sent from my Galaxy SIII via tapatalk 2

 

Don't put off the 366 spring either, it is a great upgrade for a manual truck especially.

 

been busy the last few days, sorry for taking so long to reply.

Rickcher, that stinks your lost your injectors, I hate that sick feeling when you realize what just happened. Not to make things worse but dont they have a core charge on new ones from DAP? Sounds like you are on the right path with lift pump and timing pin, I read your first post again and see you have that covered.

looks like you also have your answer for 5x12's for the injectors, they are 48% larger than stock while the 5x14's are twice the size of a stock injector. http://www.1stgen.org/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1363


ClassA, i don't have the 351 installed yet, that 273 hp was my D250 5sp truck dyno'd all stock with 3200 spring and ground pin. you can come up to Maine next month to see what my D350 auto will dyno at, its all stock other than hopefully a piston lift pump if i get that in before the 19th. I wanted to go dyno it stock to somewhat compare the auto to manual. then I will have to decide it the 351 goes in or not.

With the size of your RV I would think you would want to keep the larger exhaust housing. the HE351 spools great for a standard with its 9cm housing but that may be an issue for you? From what I read on here over the years with the compressor upgrade it should give you the 100 degree drop that you need, 30+ psi gets hot fast. If your happy with the power you have then it may be a decent way to go. Although the cost of that has jumped a bit, they used to be half the cost of what they are now.

 

Hey guys, thanks for all the replies. I was kind of thinking 5x.014's would be a little too big but I needed to hear from someone who was running them. DAP does have what they call aftermarket injectors, I don't think they are Bosch bodies but I have to call them and verify that. They don't have a core charge for those so if they're decent that may be the route I take. I loved my 366 spring when I put it in the other truck, but I am kind of worried about the higher rpm's. I really want to make this truck last, with only 95,000 miles on this one and 436,000 on the other one, I'm really turning the clock back quite a bit and I want to make sure it lasts. But I'm not heavy footed so I'll probably end up doing the spring after I get the other stuff on there. That horsepower thing really is a slippery slope... Thanks again.
Rick