I had my injector pump go bad. After some digging I found that something must have siezed up and snapped my rotor head shaft. A buddy of mine had a ve in his shop that he took off of his truck so he could put a p-pump on it. The pump ran good so I figured it would be worth it to give it a try. I put it on the truck ran good when I got it started, but it was leaking fuel real bad and would lose its prime. It seemed to be leaking from the o-ring on the rotor head. I had a seal kit laying around and read somewhere that it could be changed with the pump on truck, you just have to make sure that you keep pressure on the spring. I did that and I made sure to keep pressure on it. I got the seal replaced (it went way to easy so I knew something was gonna happen) and after 20 minutes of trying to get the air out I knew something wasn't right. It shoots fuel out of the lines, but it won't start. I have been trying to get it started for a couple of hours now. When I prime the lift pump sometimes there is pressure on the lever and sometimes there isn't. So my question after all that is... Did I do something by changing the seal to make my injector pump not work? Is my lift pump gone bad? Is there still air in the lines? I guess its time to go get the pump rebuilt.

 

Just to be on the safe side, pull the pump back off the truck and ease the head off to make sure you didn't get anything out of whack.

EASE off the head, or when it comes off, everything will fall loose and you will never know if you had it right the first time or not.


Also, before removing the head, you can remove the top portion that houses the throttle-lever; with the pump chucked in a vise, and the gear-nut screwed on the drive-shaft, have someone SLOWLY rotate the shaft with a 7/8" wrench, while you look inside and watch the motion of the pump-springs and their pins, making sure both pins protrude through the spring-plate as the plunger is depressed by the cam-plate.







If you have no doubt that you didn't let anything out of place when replacing the O-ring, and you have already been cranking the engine without the pump-housing breaking all to pieces, you can dis-connect power to the grid-heaters and mist ether DIRECTLY into the intake (remove a boot), while someone else is cranking the engine.

If it is able to start, it will fire and run with the ether, just don't get carried away with the ether.


Of course, if you managed to get something out of whack, then the pieces will probably fly.

 

The son's truck was leaking a stream wide as a handsaw-blade from the head-seal, so much that it would fill a gallon container in less than a minute.

This bad leak had no effect whatsoever in the starting/running of the engine; it ran as well and as powerful leaking as not.

It could sit for two weeks and fire the first touch of the key.

It's strange that your leak in the same place would cause the symptoms you are describing.

 

on your lift pump there is a lobe on the cam if you need to bump the starter and try priming it again you might have to do this a couple of times to get it so it will pump

 

The truck will run and fire on ether. I'm probably gonna get one of the pumps I have laying around rebuilt and then I will probably sell the truck. Its costing me too much to keep it running these days.

 

When you are priming using the little lever on lift pump, you may need to bump starter to get cam on low spot for pump to work. Check for 12 volts at shut down solenoid valve. If you have 12 volts, I would remove valve and spring from shut down solenoid valve. These valves are the only problems I have seen with these pumps. Then reinstall, if it starts then you can shut engine down with mechanical shut down lever on side of pump. They are pricey little valves. Good Luck

 

Seeing as how that used pump probably sat around for a while, it is altogether possible that the fuel-solenoid is gummed-up and either needs freeing-up or do like ^^he^^ said and just gut the solenoid.

 

sounds like the solenoid

 

Well I'm getting 12 volts to the solenoid. I gutted it and put it back in and still no start. Time for a rebuild on the injector pump I think.

 

could also be the timmming off do you get any smoke out of the pipe, did you bleed the IP lines, are the lines tight on the back of the pump (sorry about the dum questons, just things i for get to do sometimes), you also could pull the pump top off and spin the motor with a 1 1/2 wrench on the fan nut and see if theres anything wrong with it, you wont be able to see the rotor but it might help, but check the timming
Joel

 

That is one thing that I noticed is that I'm notting getting any smoke at all out of the tailpipe. The thought of my timing being off has crossed my mind, but how could it be off from changing that seal?

 

There is a pin on the cam-plate that engages the plunger/piston.

There is also a little washer that sits in a pocket in the end of the plunger.

That little washer is about the same thickness as the protrusion of the pin on the cam-plate.

It is remotely possible that you let that washer drop out of it's pocket and it has lodged between the plunger and cam-plate, keeping the plunger from engaging the pin, or has gotten the plunger out of time with the rest of the pump.