injection pump removal?
 

hey guys when i remove the pump on the engine and i set the timing pin under it ,,,does a certain cylinder have to be on tdc or do i just rotate it till it popes in or what ,,,thanks for the help guys.....

Nope, if the pin pushes in, #1 cylinder is on TDC. That's the point of it.

Before removing, be sure to lock the pump by removing the tabbed washer and snugging up the bolt. Then mark the pump mounting flange and gear case with a punch or scratch a line.
If you do all these the timing will remain the same and it will start right back up and run exactly the same and make your life much easier.

On 99% of engines, when the engine shuts off, it stops with the I-pump key at about the 5-o'clock position where it could easily fall out into the gear-case.

Before pulling the pump gear, rotate the engine until the key is straight up top, thus gravity works in your favor and you are less likely to wonder if the key stayed where it belongs.

Also, I "glue" the key into the slot with nail-polish so it will stay there.


One other thing:
When the engine stops at the usual position, the pump is oriented such that it's internals are climbing the "lobes" against spring pressure and it is very hard to line the pump-shaft back to where it was.

You can't really mess it up, if you do then pull the timing cover and line up the dots.

hey guys i may have fudged it ,,,,i finally got the pump off but i didnt mark it ,,i thought there was a mark on the housing already,,,,what can i do now[duhhh]

You take the plug out of the back of the pump, in the middle of the distributor, put in an adapter (It's 12mm threads) and a dial indicator, then set your timing with that.

That's why, if it's running like you want, you lock it down and mark it's location.

Attachment 51784

Attachment 51785

ok well i locked the pump but didnt mark the pump location but i havent cleaned where the pump mounts can i take out the key set the pump back on and have some one mark it.......

Okay, just so we are all on the same page, are you going to re-install the SAME pump that you removed ??

If so, then don't panic; if you don't mess with (as in rotate) the gears that the pump meshes with, then you can't get things too far out of whack.

Like you said, with GOOD LIGHT, and the key NOT ON THE SHAFT, put the pump back where it was and line it up according to it's tracks in the dirt; you don't have to put the gear back on the shaft.

Once it looks as close as possible to where it always was, make a mark on the pump that coincides with the factory mark on the gear-case/timing-housing; OR, just scribe both the pump and gear-case somewhere where it is easily seen.

Once you are ready to re-install the pump, line up your marks and it should be close enough to start and run.

Once all the air is bled out, if it cranks but won't start, or starts but runs crappy, then most likely you have the top of the pump rotated too far from the engine; loosen all the lines --- including the AFC boost-tube --- and rotate the top of the pump toward the engine; tighten everything back up and try again.

Thus and so forth until it starts and runs to suit you.

Seeing as how most people like to advance the pump-timing until the pump is almost touching the engine, you can't mess up too bad.

All of this is assuming you put the pump internals all back to rights and didn't leave any pieces out.

DO NOT try to rotate the pump without loosening all the injector lines and AFC tube; elsewise, you will kink the AFC tube and possibly kink an injector line or two; just loosen the nuts enough that the lines can pivot instead of twisting.

Don't forget to also scribe the key-slots location on the pump before you un-lock it.

If the pump is locked and the engine isn't rotated there is no need to scribe a line or mark the position.

If you are having the pump rebuilt the shop will return it with the same timing. Simply reinstall the pump, don't lock it down all the way, reinstall the gear, tighten the pump down then remove the lock bolt, reinstall with spacer and you're in time. Don't forget to pull the TDC pin out before cranking the engine.

hey guys do i have to torque the plate down on the back of the pump across from the ksb or can i just tighten it real good its two torx screws ,,,,thats where the leak came from

the o ring was blown out and one screw was backed off,,,,also can i loctite them so they wont back off again

There is a specified torque value for those screws, but sensible "good-n-tight" should be okay, just don't overdo it and either snap off a screw or strip the threads in the aluminum housing.

Myself, I always slather on the anti-sieze instead of loc-tite, seeing as how they are steel screws going into aluminum housing.

Maybe use BLUE loc-tite; I wouldn't use RED.

That hidden impossible-to-access seal is a common leak point.

The head-seal/O-ring is another big leaker.