kevin93

There's a Chrysler factory video floating around on youtube on how to R&R the pump. A puller is needed to get the gear off the front, but the specially made ones are cheap...I got mine from Tork Technology...they have some good tools.

Getting the key aligned with the gear keyway is the most difficult part of putting it back together...you really need a mirror and a good light to see into the pump shaft hole to make sure the key is in the slot and isn't being mashed over and off by a little bit.

Anyways, looking at the video and reading some posts here is what helped me get the pump back in. I didn't "reseal" I just replaced one on the far side that had popped out because a bolt was loose, and I replaced the shaft seal while I was there. I'm not ready to take that pump apart yet...I think I'll find another VE pump to take apart and try and practice on.

The Hungry Diesel guy (Eric) mentioned that a "new head" is what makes the pump work better, in a conversation some time ago. Those aren't cheap...and a "rebuild" isn't actually doing much other than seals and springs (I guess). It's still a pump with ~300K on it's metal parts and it won't last very long. That may or may not be good info...but I think a "really rebuilt" pump is more like $1500.

bigragu

If I may suggest, really look over that tappet cover while the injection pump is off. If it looks questionable, moistened with oil, re seal that sucker now. Best time to do it.

Other preventative measures are to reseal the vacuum pump while that's out, too. A seal kit from Genos garage( a kit made by Goulds) is inexpensive.

cougar

I plan to do a valve adjustment while I'm in there.
Eric and the hungry diesel don't exist in my world, he made it personal a few years back (think con man).

cougar

We're talking Alaska here, nothing is cheap.
Right now I'm leaning hard toward doing an exchange mainly because of time and work space.

edwinsmith

I'd definitely go with the rebuilt pump. The trouble to take it off, reseal it and put it back on and finding that you didn't fix the problem or now have a leak isn't worth it. You'll need a barring tool to crank the engine over to #1 TDC to get the rebuilt pump timing correct is a must. See the 3 part Video which makes the job somewhat simpler to understand. I did mine about 6 months ago and I haven't regretted it a bit.

Edwin

edwinsmith

I'd definitely go with the rebuilt pump. The trouble to take it off, reseal it and put it back on and finding that you didn't fix the problem or now have a leak isn't worth it. You'll need a barring tool to crank the engine over to #1 TDC to get the rebuilt pump timing correct is a must. See the 3 part Video which makes the job somewhat simpler to understand. I did mine about 6 months ago and I haven't regretted it a bit.

edwinsmith

Sorry about the double post. I'm in a motel and the internet sucks.

cougar

Already have the baring tool, one of the first tools I bought for the Cummins. Any suggestions for an IP source? I've had great service from Oregon Fuel Injection and Diesel Auto power.

edwinsmith

I bought mine here US Diesel Parts - Diesel Performance Parts For Dodge, Ford & Chevy It was $750.00 + $500 core charge. They were prompt and sent my core charge money right back on my CC.

Here's a link for the video
The replacement should come locked on TDC #1 and so when you bolt in in with the engine on TDC#1 your timing will be correct. I didn't even have to set the idle RPM's.

Edwin

cougar

I have those videos saved. Just waiting on weather the boss is going to send me down south again or not.

bigragu

That tool that is pictured on that video, on Edwin's reply, is an awesome tool to have, especially if you plan on getting to that pump a lot. You can get by with S shaped wrenches and all that, but if you ever got to use that specific tool, it makes accessing those fuel line nuts a labor of love.
Gotta warn you, though, very pricey indeed at $65.

Jim Lane

Hey Edwin,
Out here in SoCal we have BECS Pacific in Whittier off the I-605, they are an authorized Bosch and Holset shop,
I get all of my parts there.

http://www.becspacific.com/whittier.html

Jim

kensmachine

other things I would get if you are going to do the pump yourself Head and rotor springs they break all the time and a throttle shaft bushing the factory ones are bronze and ware bad the updated ones are hardened steel ken

cougar

Actually I make my own fuel injection line tools from deep sockets, have for years. Other wrenches I make by grind, bend, cut, and weld. In aviation, you get creative. Saves a lot of work and blood loss.