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Iintermittant no-start.

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Old Aug 29, 2013 | 02:00 PM
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From: Phoenix AZ
Iintermittant no-start.

It is like your kids, you love them, but sometimes you hate what they do. That is how I feel about my truck right now. I need the pump and injector gurus to chime in. It starts right up in the morning. Sometimes it works like it's supposed to. But, like right now, it will not start. I left it running yesterday and it died, for the first time ever. It took 4 hours to get it started again.

1. Can leaking injectors cause this?

2. What can cause it to not start, I do nothing to it except wait 5 minutes, then it starts?

3. Is there something inside the pump that can cause this?

I hate to throw parts at it, but when I get home, I plan to pull the injectors and have them checked or rebuilt as needed.

4. I also plan to pull the tank and make sure all is good there.

Everything else that may affect this has been replaced, like the fss and lift pump.

If all else fails I will replace the IP, but this one has less the 30k miles on it.

Anything else that you can think of is greatly appreciated...Mark
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Old Aug 29, 2013 | 03:30 PM
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Is it turning over? Or no?
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Old Aug 29, 2013 | 03:43 PM
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I was reading your other post last night and have been thinking about it.

When you start or restart does it help or make any difference if you give it some throttle before and while cranking? I have seen engines that crank to no end with no throttle but just a second of part throttle will crank right up.



Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? that could help eliminate the concern for supply or tank restrictions as well as the issue of getting bad lift pumps. You will also know what the filter is doing. I don't think you can suck the fuel filter down any so opening the drain to check for fuel isn't much help on a fuel supply issue.


does it ever smoke(grey, white or black) any smoke at all when cranking, just after it finally starts, normal start, idle?
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Old Aug 29, 2013 | 03:45 PM
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Make sure you have 12 volts at the fuel solenoid valve terminal. If you do then remove valve but be careful you do not drop the piston and spring. Remove spring and piston and then re-install valve. If it starts without any problem then replace the solenoid valve. You can shut down engine only with the mechanical shut down lever on the side of pump when valve is removed.
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Old Aug 29, 2013 | 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by gyman98
Is it turning over? Or no?
Yeah, it always cranks. My 7 year old optima went bad which really didn't help the situation. I am in a pretty small town, but I was able to find a 1000 ca battery for about 130 bucks, yikes ...Mark
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Old Aug 29, 2013 | 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by taterfarm
I was reading your other post last night and have been thinking about it.

When you start or restart does it help or make any difference if you give it some throttle before and while cranking? I have seen engines that crank to no end with no throttle but just a second of part throttle will crank right up.



Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? that could help eliminate the concern for supply or tank restrictions as well as the issue of getting bad lift pumps. You will also know what the filter is doing. I don't think you can suck the fuel filter down any so opening the drain to check for fuel isn't much help on a fuel supply issue.


does it ever smoke(grey, white or black) any smoke at all when cranking, just after it finally starts, normal start, idle?
It hasn't helped to use the throttle in the past, but yesterday when we used starting fluid, it would not start until we pumped the pedal. I do not have a fuel pressure gauge, but it is now on my list. It never smokes at all. The randomness of it is what is killing me. I may have to cut my trip short and go back to try and fix this. The problem is that they want you to shut it down if you get caught in a military inspection...Mark
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Old Aug 29, 2013 | 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by BigIron70
Make sure you have 12 volts at the fuel solenoid valve terminal. If you do then remove valve but be careful you do not drop the piston and spring. Remove spring and piston and then re-install valve. If it starts without any problem then replace the solenoid valve. You can shut down engine only with the mechanical shut down lever on the side of pump when valve is removed.
It is new and it clicks when I put 12 volts to it. When I open an injector just a small amount of fuel comes out, not the high pressure spray it should have. It was doing the exact same thing with the old fss. It did it to me 1 day a few weeks ago, I tried everything to get it to start, I called a wrecker, then decided to try 1 more time and it started. It is like something is hanging up. I don't know enough about the ve to decide if it is a pump problem. It's killing me over here ..Mark
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Old Aug 29, 2013 | 05:03 PM
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So it's doing the same as it was with the old fss? If so try gutting it. A piece of string works to shut it down. Starting back up again required popping the hood. Pull cable fixes it too
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Old Aug 29, 2013 | 05:05 PM
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I just now went out there and it started 10 straight times, without waiting in between. It would be easier to diagnose if it didn't start at all, but I am not complaining that it starts. That would be just dumb ...Mark
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Old Aug 29, 2013 | 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by gyman98
So it's doing the same as it was with the old fss? If so try gutting it. A piece of string works to shut it down. Starting back up again required popping the hood. Pull cable fixes it too
It does seem to me that the intermittance could be caused by the fss. I just hate it when new stuff fails or doesn't work out of the box. 1 Thing that I am thinking is the battery was intermittent also, When I put a meter on it, with no load it was 13.2 volts, try to start it and it went to 4 volts. If the 12 volts to the fss goes away it closes. This may explain why, if I tried to start it right after turning it off, that it wouldn't start, but after a few minutes, the battery "fixed" itself back to 12 volts.What I am going to try is, for the next day or so, when I go to start it, I am going to put a jumper wire on it first, then if it DOESN'T do the no start, that was it. If it DOES do the no start, then I am back where I started...My brain hurts...Mark
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Old Aug 29, 2013 | 05:19 PM
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If I remember right the fss needs 9-10 volts minimum so that could be it. To me all signs point to the fss, whether its a faulty unit or insufficient voltage.

On a side note, have you turned up your pump? Or messed around with the settings?
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Old Aug 29, 2013 | 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by gyman98
If I remember right the fss needs 9-10 volts minimum so that could be it. To me all signs point to the fss, whether its a faulty unit or insufficient voltage.

On a side note, have you turned up your pump? Or messed around with the settings?
I haven't, but the pump came with instruction to push it to the head, so they may have done something to it and didn't tell me. It has been a few years, but, I will try to call them to ask. What mods would there be that would require pushing it to the head? Or, does pushing a stock ve to the head do something good? I just don't know enough about the pump...Mark
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Old Aug 29, 2013 | 05:30 PM
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It just advances the timing.

When the power screws are adjusted it tears the rubber on the fss. How did your old one fail? There are guys who file down the rubber tip and can still run a fss with a cranked pump
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Old Aug 29, 2013 | 05:35 PM
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Do you have boost and pyro gauges? if so what are you running for max numbers on them, does it feel like it has full power?

I would think a leaking injector would show some white smoke on start-up, especially if it was causing the no start issue.

Where in the timeline of this issue was the battery replaced? did that change much?

if your unsure on the fss then just take the spring and plunger out for a while to see if it fixes it. you can put it back in if it doesnt help. A cold chisel and hammer work great for removal, once you get the hang of it then its not a big deal to pull it apart.
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Old Aug 29, 2013 | 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by gyman98
It just advances the timing.

When the power screws are adjusted it tears the rubber on the fss. How did your old one fail? There are guys who file down the rubber tip and can still run a fss with a cranked pump
It was just leaking. It was before I found this site and before I knew anything about the truck. Obviously, now I would have just resealed it. The worst part is that it was just a 200 dollar core charge and I sent it back to them, what an idiot, . What you don't know can hurt you, that's fo' sho'...Mark
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