I'll try to explain it best as possible. On a 91.5 D350 my dad has been building/working on we're having some problems getting it started. It was running before we took parts of the truck apart to clean and paint. When we first hooked everything back up it would not hit a lick when you turned the igniton to start. We never took any wiring apart,cut or done anything like that. Started looking for loose,cut or messed up wires and nothing. We did take the cover off the steering column to paint it but never messed with wiring. Between us and a friend who is a electronic inclined person we started tracing wires. Traced everything back up into the steering column wiring and it seems like fire and all is getting to the ignition switch but not back out. We replaced the little computer box if you will that the igniton "tumbler" is in and hooked it all back up. When you turn the switch into the ON position a few lights on the dash come on,the little glow ring around the ignition comes on but still no fire!! Our friend took one of the fusible links apart that is right at the battery on the posi side. The link was round and a few inches long and black if that'll help any. Then stuck a screwdriver into one end of it and grounded it out on the battery and the starter solionid clicked and turned for just a split second but not enough to start the motor!!

We're getting fire to everything inside the dash but don't think it's making its way back out from inside to the starter or something along them lines. My father is at wits end about it and has become a total edit about it now because he can't get his truck running. I've tried to trace wires but can't seem to find where it's loosing the fire from that igniton switch back outside the firewall to get fire to the solonid on the starter Is there anything else it can be or just a loose wire somewhere or what!? Any wiring diagrams,ideas,hints or anything would be GREATLY appreciated. This coming weekend the family is going camping and if I'm going to get this truck running and in good shape if it's the last thing I ever do in my life so he'll be happy to hear the Cummins rattle

 

Try unplugging the bulkhead connector (big one on the firewall with a bolt holding it together) and plugging it back in again. You may have a bad connection in there.

 

Assuming that it's a 5 speed check the neutral safety switch. You can disconnect it and loop a wire from one terminal on the connector to the other. If it starts your switch is acting up. You can also bypass it at the wiring near the battery but it's easier to describe the other way.

 

oops I forgot to tell you where it's at. If you look at the clutch pedal there is a bracket with a rod that goes to a switch. That be the potential culprit.

 

I've done unhooked the buckhead and cleaned it all out without any success It's also a automatic truck so that'll be a little different..crap again!

 

Make sure that the transmission is in park with the parking brake on etc. Then look for this connector near the battery. Turn your key to the run position. Disconnect this connector. Get a jumper wire and insert it into the female end on the brown wire. Touch the other side of the jumper to the positive side of the battery. See if she fires.[IMG][/IMG]

 

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For it to start all you need is 12 volts to the fuel shutoff solenoid and momentary power to that brown trigger wire. Check to make sure that the wire didn't fall off of your solenoid.

 

Alright that sounds like something I have not checked yet. Where exactly is the fuel shut off solenoid bud? I'm trying to learn as much as possible about the 1st generation Cummins truck but don't know it all. Definately not a electrican just know the very basics and how to use a test light mostly LOL

If it will start when I use the jumper where what would you say would be bad? Just the connecter or what? I want to hear it run but need to make sure it'll start all the time with the switch ya know. Thanks a lot

 

The fuel solenoid won't stop it from cranking. It will just keep it from starting. If you do like I said with the connector and it starts then start tracing backwards from that point back to the ignition switch etc. But that should get you started. Once you know that it will start you can work backward from that point. Hope that it helps.

 

If it won't crank by putting power to the brown wire then I would check the starter contacts. Maybe Dave has some ideas. Maybe I'm missing something.

 

Sorry about all of the posts instead of just putting it all in one. I just though of one more thing. If you have a test light you can put it on the male side of that brown wire and turn your ignition switch to the start position. The light should come on. If it doesn't that is further indication that you have a problem between there and the switch.

 

Is it posible that you removed the bat. cable, to remove the steering column and now there just isn't a good enought contact of the battery cable?...look can be deceiving!!!!!!

You said that you painted the column.....is it posible that the paint dust landed on the contaces of the ign switch? or the column conector you removed to remove the column?

usally it some thing simple..........finding witch simple thing, is the culprit, is the tuff part!

 

Also if the steering column connector was disconnected it's possible a wire got tugged out of its crimp connector. I would test continuity [Ohms resistance] of all those wires from one side of connector to the other. Could be the juice isn't getting through. Good idea to check firewall/chassis ground too.

 

Isn't the starter solenoid controlled by a relay on the driver's fenderwell?
I'd check for power there, maybe the relay is kaput.