I have my pump off and apart. Any help?
I have my pump off and apart. Any help?
I pulled my pump off to fix a leaky governor shaft. I have a couple questions.
First off, I can't decide which o ring out of the Bosch gasket kit best matches the one that came off the shaft.
Second, when I put an o ring on and screw the shaft back in, it goes so far in before it bottoms out, that I only have a couple of threads left for the nut.
Third, my delivery valve and the line that goes to the ksb, were both ful of rubber pieces, anyone ever heard of this?
I'm in a borrowed shop and no one else around for advise. Also trying to look at Jim Lanes pictures on my phone.
Someone can call if they want and I can call them back.
580-280-0099.
Thanks, I'll be here until its back together.
First off, I can't decide which o ring out of the Bosch gasket kit best matches the one that came off the shaft.
Second, when I put an o ring on and screw the shaft back in, it goes so far in before it bottoms out, that I only have a couple of threads left for the nut.
Third, my delivery valve and the line that goes to the ksb, were both ful of rubber pieces, anyone ever heard of this?
I'm in a borrowed shop and no one else around for advise. Also trying to look at Jim Lanes pictures on my phone.
Someone can call if they want and I can call them back.
580-280-0099.
Thanks, I'll be here until its back together.
I've done a few complete tear-down and rebuilds on ve's, as well as calibrating them. I have found that the o-rings don't always match exactly also. The correct o-ring should be very close in size, just a little thicker. When installing the governor shaft, screw it in far enough so that when the nut is installed there is about one thread of the shaft sticking out - that setting really doesn't make a difference as long as you are relatively close. I am guessing that the rubber is from your shut-off solenoid. It is fairly common for them to chunk. I would recommend pulling it and cutting/machining/sanding it flat so that you don't have problems in the future. If its not flat it will not stop fuel flow and shut the engine off. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the reply. I knew that the o rings wouldn't be an exact match, but the choices I have are 1 that is way fatter and doesn't want to allow the shaft to go back in, and 1 that is close in size but if the old one was round again it seems like the new one wouldnt be as thick. I'm sitting here at the bench trying to decide on weather to chance the smaller one or not.
Are you looking through the entire bag of o-rings, or have you resealed/used the other o-rings? The rebuild kits that I have used were zexel. There are quite a few o-rings that are very similar in size. It's hard to tell without looking at them. If the smaller o-ring is the only one that fits........
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Sizing O-ring sizes
There is an old time trick on matching the size of o-rings using a conical funnel shaped gauge. You can improvise one by rolling your own using an old cereal box and tape or by using a conical funnel without outside ridges of the right size. [Paint funnels are usually of a conical style] Just drop the o-ring on the gauge and read the gauge or mark its location with a pen. Then find the closest o-rings of the same measured thickness and drop them on the gauge. the new o-ring should occupy the same spot on the gauge as the old o-ring or ride just a tad higher than the old one.
There is an old time trick on matching the size of o-rings using a conical funnel shaped gauge. You can improvise one by rolling your own using an old cereal box and tape or by using a conical funnel without outside ridges of the right size. [Paint funnels are usually of a conical style] Just drop the o-ring on the gauge and read the gauge or mark its location with a pen. Then find the closest o-rings of the same measured thickness and drop them on the gauge. the new o-ring should occupy the same spot on the gauge as the old o-ring or ride just a tad higher than the old one.
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