Nate-W250

Hello all.

I've been messing around with the brakes on my pig over the years and I've about had it. New boosters, a couple new MC's, new steel lines all new calipers, shoes, drums, hardware, you name it, ...oh not to mention all the bleeding. My God all the bleeding. I remember a time when I had good brakes, the pedal was firm, the truck squatted when braking and would only lock up when I was standing on the pedal. This was after a new booster, MC and upgraded to 1 1/8" wheel cylinders and 3" shoes. It was short lived though, as the MC started leaking, pedal gradually got softer, rear brakes started getting crappier. I'd bleed, re-adjust, tinker, it would get better for a few weeks, then same old stuff.

The latest round I had a parking brake cable cease up and grenaded my shoe. This gave me the great pleasure of redoing my rears again with new shoes, turned drums, new parking brake cables, readjusted, and...of course...re-bled for the hell of it. Now my rears are super grabby and lock up with the slightest press of a pedal. I'm thinking maybe something with the proportioning valve? I think everything is adjusted correctly because they are both locking up at the same time. And lifted on 35's, I've given a few people heart attacks hearing brakes lock up and seeing a big dodge in the rear view.

I read about all the Hydroboost conversion threads but I was stubborn, I wanted my stock brakes to work like they were designed. When I think about the money and time I've spent chasing this issues, I could've had about 4 hydroboost systems stacked on top each other. ...I'm ready to throw in the towel and have good 'low maintenance' brakes.

Here are my questions I haven't been able to answer via my research that I'm hoping some of you guys that have them can help with.

1) Do you any of you still run the RWAL brake system with the hydroboost conversion? How well does it do with the higher pressures? I currently have my ABS unplugged due you past issues, but never liked the idea of completely removing it, and want to get it working properly as it was designed.

1a) For those of you who are running without RWAL, do you have problems with your rears locking up with the extra brake power?

2) I read about bleeding the PS/HB system once the swap is complete (thanks thrashingcows), but is bleeding the brake system any different, or the process of bench bleeding the MC?

I scored a HB and MC off a '01 from the scrapyard and going to by a new PS pump and hoses from the same year and get started as soon as my truck gets back from the driveline shop.

Thanks in advance.

PS...and thanks to all of you who took the time to create the great write ups with pictures!

ChrisLib

The rear brakes might be touchy b/c the booster and or master are going bad, at least that was my experience right before doing a hydro boos swap, my rear brakes would lockup just by thinking about it.

My RWAL has been disabled for a while now, also running 3" shoes and 1 1/8 wheel cylinders. I have found that since the h/b conversion the truck has the best/most stable braking since I've owned it (which is 2003).

MrFusion

I accidentally installed the rear brake shoes on my 2nd CTD backwards once. Brakes were screechy and super grabby. Drove myself nuts trying to figure it out until a buddy of mine pointed out the problem. I put the brake shoes in the correct position and they worked fine. I had done plenty of brake jobs by that point. Several on that truck. I was tired and in a rush when I put them on and screwed it up.

Nate-W250

You may be on to something there. I guess I wasn't paying attention to the subtle differences. Definitely in a rush, and...tired of working on brakes. I'll check it out when I rip into the hydroboost. This very well could go down in the 'I'm my own worst enemy' category. Along with the lift.

oliver foster

Not liking the 6 inch lift Nate?

MrFusion

Easy to do if you are in a hurry and sick of doing it. One shoe has an inch or two less pad on it. If I recall correctly the short pad goes towards the front of the vehicle. Hopefully its an easy fix for you.

Nate-W250

Its not that I don't like it, its just that I would've liked a 4" better. The 6" kicked a hornets next of drive line angle and shaft length issues. I've read guys 4" lifts didn't have it so bad. I've heard some guys with 6" didn't have as many issues as I did either??? Maybe because mines a crew with the long box??? Its in the drive line shop now getting fitted for a custom front shaft as there were vibration issues with the old one after the lift.

In general, I'm to the point in the project where I want to fix all the little issues that have been getting under my skin. Vibrations, brakes, leaks, fine tuning the pump, soundproofing....list goes on and on. Just having it up and driving isn't cutting it anymore. =)

oliver foster

I understand I just had a longer A-518 auto front driveshaft cut down and balanced to replace the maxed out Getrag front driveshaft on my '6 inch Skyjacker lifted '85 crew cab.

The 4 inch gasser Rancho springs I just put on my '91.0 are quickly settling in to just 2 1/4 inches [as of today] and I just installed them only two weeks ago. I really only wanted 2 inches so it is about perfect. I may not even need any steering adjustments, let alone drive line mods.

samiam4

I'm no expert,

but I believe there are no quality new or rebuilt brake boosters. Hydro is the way. FYI, amazon has great selection and prices. Got my new drums for 19.96 w free shipping. Can you believe that... ? They had all the big brands of shoes.

Nate-W250

Yeah, I was a little too worried about fitting 35's and went with a 6". I bet I could put 38's under it easily now. 4" would've been perfect. I keep telling my self it will settle some, Its been over 2 years and just as high as ever.

Thanks Samiam4 my drums and shoes came from amazon, all Raybestos, just cant beat free shipping on the heavy things.

NJTman

I had the brakes locking up issue until I replaced everything new again.

New Drums, new Riveted shoes fixed my issue..... for what seems like forever or about 2 years.

Now, all still works well, but If the truck sits for a long time, and there's a lot of moisture in the air from rain, then when I go to drive the truck for the first time after the sit / rain period, the rear brakes lock up on my gravel driveway. Drive the truck for 10 minutes, and all dries up and back to functioning normally. 10 minutes...


Okay.... Pork flied lice, egg loll, chicken chow mein....... Pick up in 10 minutes...


.

Angry Johnny

This is the reason I'm converting to rear discs. The amount of work is nearly the same and the cost isn't all the much more. This way I will get brakes that are easier to check and service plus they work when wet.

Nate-W250

Yeah, think I'm going to tear them apart...again...and look at the shoe orientation and maybe replace them when I get my start with my hydroboost. The original master cylinder was the only one I've had that didn't leak around the lid. If there is no change with hydroboost other than the **** MC wont leak out the reservoir, it'll be worth it.

NJTman, if nothing else I got a chuckle out of that one. I'll be thinking about that laugh when I'm beating the brakes off my rears again. ....

NJTman

Couldn't agree more. If money wasn't an issue (I'd say right now, but it's always), I'd have rear discs on my as I type this.