As a few of you know i'v been working on an advanced W/I system, well we dyno the truck this morning so i though id share.

#2 alone---311 HP/731 TQ
#2 plus W/I---421HP/916TQ
this is basicly all the mods to the truck, pump adj / fuel pin / 75 HP EDM'S thats running stock turbo, exhaust its basicly stock for the most part. the HP increase was achieved with a mix of, water methynol and nitro methane in following %.

water=51%
methynol=47.5%
nitro=1.5%

 

What kind of EGT's?

 

lol whats that ?, its staying under 1500 i know its high but stock turbo is the primary issue there.

 

What was the difference in EGT's between the two runs?

 

Actually none i can tell, it runs hot on just fuel.

 

Didn't you pop a head gasket a while back with nitro? Good to see you're still on it

 

Interesting numbers, is it cheaper to run this mix then to just use N2O?

Where in TX are you locate?

 

very interesting. hmmmmm. tc

 

I never ran NOS before, and never blown a head gasket, wrong guy JQ. Considering the nitro mix it takes very little, tanks 8 glns so the amount you need is tiny.

This has been an experiment, i just wanted to see how much i could get from w/m type inj. I have no intention of running this mix on a prolonged basis, it be ok for a day at the races but thats all i think. The cyl pressures have got to be way into the not happy area. I honestly dont know the effect long term would cause. I do know that this ignites almost by looking at it, if grid heaters ever came on during the inj it be very bad mojo,,,,i unhooked mine temporary, for the dyno run. Also nitro doesnt suspend well in methynol so if truck sat for a while it can seperate and hitting the inj its possible to inject straight nitro that also be a not wanted thing.

Im adding this as a warning, i did this over a two year period, trying differant fuels and being way to safe, iv been working with w/m inj for years but honest truth is this can be fun but also a very bad thing. Iv already had the plate on top the intake blown off. I didnt post this so everyone can try it but to show theres a lot of things that can work on these old beasts.

Theres a lot of great info on here if you want to go to extremes at least come and ask, ppl like Dave and others might save you a lot of headachs down the line.

PS at least i had more HP than Dave even if im not going to continue it.

 

good #s, what injection system are you using, and how many injectors

 

I think I might have to stop at the hobby shop before my next dyno run...

Those numbers are absolutely amazing! I pick up around 20 HP with 50/50 W/M, if I do water/meth on top of valet mode it's worth 40 HP give or take.

Just a dab of nitromethane mixed in there got you 110 HP, that is amazing.

 

Dave i honestly dont know why you only gain 20 hp, if you remember one i helped miciafied with he jumped 70 hp and thats about normal for my systems. the most i ever got was 84 on a third gen but lowest was 50 or so.

And if you do try it get the % right, you dont want to add to much because it will settle out fast.

WWJDCARS i build my own systems, this one has two nozzles but,,,,,in all the dyno runs i have yet to see a differance of more than 2 or 3 HP. It just really doesnt effect the numbers to have more nozzles. Iv used controlers and delays everything i could think of but the old style with a boost switch and a relay give as good HP numbers as any.

Dont get me wrong here iv been using various homemade controllers long before snow and cooling mist started selling them, its just not enough advantage to over come the price differance. The only real noticible thing was that twin nozzles that come on (1--on at 17psi, 2--on ay 25psi)uhm how to explain,,,,,,,,,,,,,, the numbers arent higher but it does like the less water shot in the intial surge. With twin nozzles the power curve seems to be a lot wider that with just one, if that makes sense.

 

Are you willing to give some info on your home made setup, it sounds interesting and I realy dont like the looks of the prices that Snow and Cool Mist have.

 

I posted the system many times, theres a scematic on my gallery, ill find the parts list and put it there as well.

 

Water Pump it needs a minumim of 100 psi over your boost, so a 150 psi pump is ideal.

Spray Nozzle McMaster Carr $2.50 3178K67 - 15 gph @ 100 psi you need two, if using one size accordingly

(5) 3/8" Brass Fittings for pump, water tank & water solenoid Parts Store

Water Solenoid McMaster Carr @$35.00 P/N# 7876K12 Route after the pump, before the nozzle. Assures that NO water will be sucked in until the switch activates and opens the solenoid

Hobbs Pressure Switch Napa Auto Parts $27.00 P/N# 701-1575 This switch IS adjustable! Pop off the rubber cap on one end and adjust away!

Automotive 12V 30 Amp Relay Radio Shack $5.00 P/N# 275-226

2 Blade Type Fuse Holders Radio Shack $4.00 P/N# 270-1213

3 pack 20Amp Blade Type Fuses Radio Shack $1.30 (2) P/N# 270-1083

Lighted (or regular) On/Off Switch Radio Shack $2.70 (2) P/N# 275-706

Assorted Electrical Connectors Auto Parts Store @$5.00

12 Guage Wire Black/Red Auto Parts Store $3.00

3/8 Fuel Injection Hose & Clamps Auto Parts Store @$10.00

Water/Alcohol Tank.
i couldnt find my pretty pic with the list so heres what you need. i dont think i forgot anything.