How to seal up tranny pan?
How to seal up tranny pan?
What is the best way to seal up tranny pan?
I did a service on the tranny weeks ago and it was fine. Than I had a short in the OD solenoid wiring and had to pull the pan back off. I've now had the pan back off 3 times and still get a drip.
This is driving me nuts. I've taken a board and mallet and straightened out pan edge.(smoothed out all little bumps around bolt holes) I've used no RTV and RTV and still get a leak either way. Actually, leak has moved so not just warped edge I didn't get smoothed out.
Is there a super duper gooper that will seal this thing up. I want it DRY. I dont want to have to add two quarts of tranny juice every time I drive the truck.
Please help.
I did a service on the tranny weeks ago and it was fine. Than I had a short in the OD solenoid wiring and had to pull the pan back off. I've now had the pan back off 3 times and still get a drip.
This is driving me nuts. I've taken a board and mallet and straightened out pan edge.(smoothed out all little bumps around bolt holes) I've used no RTV and RTV and still get a leak either way. Actually, leak has moved so not just warped edge I didn't get smoothed out.
Is there a super duper gooper that will seal this thing up. I want it DRY. I dont want to have to add two quarts of tranny juice every time I drive the truck.
Please help.
I just used a stock cork gasket with wheel bearing grease on both side, never leaked and made poppin the pan SOOO much easier, of course no I have the Sncoast tranny w/ DD mag pan so I don't know how they did that.
cork is the best. I have never had good luck with the fiber ones.
Usually put just a very small film of Hylomar on them and slap it together. On a trans you don't want much on the gaskets because whatever squishes out the sides can get in the valve body.
Usually put just a very small film of Hylomar on them and slap it together. On a trans you don't want much on the gaskets because whatever squishes out the sides can get in the valve body.
I agree with the cork gasket versus the vegitable fiber. The most success that I have had is to clean both surfaces thoroughly being careful not to nick them. Then apply a thin coating of sealer on the pan using the bolts to insure it is in the correct position and then apply grease to the surface that goes to the tranny. Lightly tighten the bolts and come back in an hour and then torque. Then after the sealant has completely cured refill.
I've never tried the grease on the gasket. I've only used RTV and never had any leaks before. The gasket I used was a rubber gasket, it came with the filter. I guess I'll call around and see if anyone carries a cork gasket.
I use the cork gaskets - dry - and found they work about the best (haven't tried the new Mopar one, though). The Fram filters come with a cork gasket with holes punched just a hair under the bolt size...makes it a snap to get everything lined back up.
A Scotchbrite "cookie" on a drill or die grinder gives a nice clean surface to work with, but make sure to stuff some towels in the trans when cleaning the case so you don't get any debris in there - it doesn't take much to cause a problem.
A Scotchbrite "cookie" on a drill or die grinder gives a nice clean surface to work with, but make sure to stuff some towels in the trans when cleaning the case so you don't get any debris in there - it doesn't take much to cause a problem.
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Another question. I can get a torqflite 3" "deep" alluminum tranny pan off ebay for a mopar 727 for $32 w/ shipping. Doesn't sound too bad.
My understanding is my 93 auto OD is a A518 and that this was just a 727 w/ OD.
Will the pan for the mopar 727 work? I'm thinking of just replacing the pan and quite dinking around with this leaking one.
My understanding is my 93 auto OD is a A518 and that this was just a 727 w/ OD.
Will the pan for the mopar 727 work? I'm thinking of just replacing the pan and quite dinking around with this leaking one.
Yeah, I'm goin to get the deeper pan. Its not aluminum, just cromed I guess . . . oh well. Still, I least I'd know I'm not fighting a warped/bent pan to stop the leaks.
My $.02, don`t use rtv with any gasket, it`ll make it slip and will leak. The mopar gasket is very nice, it has a steel core so it`s hard (but not impossible) to overtighten I have one on my 86 gasser and it worked like a charm. Cork IMO seals well but it`s very easy to overtighten. I used a fiber gasket (NAPA) on my 93 with some permatex aviation sealant on the pan side to hold everything in place, so far so good. If you are having to straighten out bolt dimples on the pan you are probably overtightening the pan, try using a 1/4 in ratchet (better yet a torque wrench) and keep an eye on the gskt, when you see it start to squish the slightest bit, stop you should be tight enough.
I changed trans fluid over 2-months ago, all is well
. I used the Fram filter kit with the cork gasket, and Gaskecinch (yellow stuff with round brush). The D/C manual read: 150 inch pound trans bolt torque. I did them steps; 80 in/lbs, 100, 125, then 150in/lbs. I did them in opposing bolt sequence, just took my time. Good reading in this forum
, Patrick.
. I used the Fram filter kit with the cork gasket, and Gaskecinch (yellow stuff with round brush). The D/C manual read: 150 inch pound trans bolt torque. I did them steps; 80 in/lbs, 100, 125, then 150in/lbs. I did them in opposing bolt sequence, just took my time. Good reading in this forum
, Patrick.
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