hfletcher

I believe Richard's teflon fix is ingenious. I think better than a new O-ring since I don't believe teflon deteriorates like an Oring. And, trapping it tightly between washer, bolt and case will probably hold more pressure than the O-ring. Just my thoughts. My Governor shaft has been leaking for a couple months now, but I haven't been able to spare the truck, and time, to fix it. Now I can. If and when another leak develops, like behind the pump, then I'll remove it and reseal everything. Thanks Richard, and Merry Christmas to all!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

mknittle

Like I said I have never had much luck with temporary patches so I tend not to do them. Every time I do I end up spending more time re doing it than if I had done it right the first time. And I hate re doing things. but that's just me.

And Merry Christmas to you too

MrFusion

First and foremost: Sorry for your loss on both accounts.

I've done this with water valves before that would've needed replaced and it worked. I'd be worried about the teflon tape ending up in the IP and causing problems. I do have petroleum rated teflon tape. Great idea for an emergency repair!

nativegator

In order for the Teflon tape to get in the pump it would have to break off, and travel against the fuel pressure, and then get past the o ring against positive pressure. This is against all scientific principles and so I am saying it is impossible. The biggest danger is bending the little tube to get the clearance needed to get a wrench on the nut. I have seen more damage done by removing the pump and dropping things in the gear train or have a bunch of leaky fuel lines. By the way I have found if a fuel line is leaking that sometimes just remove repositioning and retightening them actually works. I would not have thought that.bur it works. Nice part about Teflon tape is it last a long time, it's cheap, and it is resistant to diesel. This does not take long to install, and is really safer then driving with a fuel leak. There are dozens of things that happen when amateurs remove the injection pump. Some requiring complete dissembling of the motor in order to retrieve parts dropped in the gear train. But as for the Teflon tape wonder, most people could easily handle it in less than 15 minutes. Merry Christmas to all, your truck is your friend, so treat it well. Richard

hfletcher

I finally repaired my ve's leaking governor shaft. I'd like to give a brief summary for the benefit of others who might need to use this fix. After bending the small tube out of the way, backing out the governor shaft nut till it contacted the timing case produced a gap of approximately 3/32" (a little over 1/16" on each side of the washer to place the teflon). I used a thick blue 1/2" wide teflon tape I had which is rated for gas and I don't know what all. I cut off a 3" piece, twisted it into a rope and then rolled in between my thumb and fingers. This produced a teflon string slightly less than 1/16" diameter which I could slip under the governor shaft, between the washer and IP housing. I captured the ends of the teflon string using small hemostats, pulled them around the shaft past one another, and tucked the ends in as best I could with a small dental pick. Then, using a small screwdriver and levering against the nut, I slid the washer tightly against the IP trapping the teflon. When I released the screwdriver pressure the washer stayed in place leaving an adequate gap on its front side. I did the same on the front side of the washer and tightened the nut. Voila!!!! It took over an hour before the lightbulb went on and I realized hemostats would make the job easy. Prior to that I tried needle nose pliers, screwdrivers, dental tools etc. As nativegator said above, bending the small steel tube out of the say could be a risk. I ultimately bent it completely out of the way, like the fitting moved several inches, but it bent back without damage. Drove the truck for an hour and no more governor shaft leak, but the end plug on the KSB was now leaking. Replaced its O'ring and now, for the first time in at least six months, I can park in a driveway. The KSB O'ring was not broken or obviously abraded, but was brittle. It broke when I tried to remove it. I think it was just inflexible and compressed and leaked due to increased pressure from the timing spacer (just my guess). Obviously my pump is due for a reseal. I can also see wetness at the base of the IP fuel inlet fitting, but no drips yet. Does anyone know how that fitting is sealed? I read it is a 12MMx1.5 so I assume there is an O'ring, washer or flare seal at its base. I don't wish to mess with it further till I have the fix in hand. The 14mm fuel line compression nut is seized up in it, so I haven't removed it to investigate. I've got a spare fuel tube with the 14mm nut so I can cut the existing fuel tube and remove the 17mm fitting with the 14mm in it, if necessary, but didn't want to do that till I was sure I can reseal that lower fitting. Hope this makes sense. TIA!

nativegator

The KSB solenoid O ring usually is in pretty terrible shape, and is easily replaced. But if no replacement is available the fuel leaking comes from shrinkage due to age. It is usually in tact but very brittle. As I mentioned before, a quick fix for the side of the road is simply wrapping the old O ring with Teflon tape and reassembling until you get a new O ring. These fuel leaks are due to O ring shrinkage. As far as the wetness around your fuel line, if that's all it may be so very minor you should just leave it. I say this because you stated it was frozen or locked up. Old Mercedes diesels always seemed to have minor dampness around thier well worn injection lines, it never hurt them. As long as it's not a drip. EBay seems to be an incredible source for new lines and parts. Most dodge owners are meticulous and any dampness would bother them. Just make sure you are ready for expense and down time before you force the nut. I have good luck removing repositioning and retightening dripping leaky lines if they aren't frozen, or locked up. It doesn't sound like it will work but has worked well several times. I wish I could help more about your line. Richard

hfletcher

Thanks for the good advice nativegator. I still want to replace the stock fuel supply tube and fittings between the IP and fuel filter with 12mm x 1.5 to AN fittings and hose, as per a fuel line upgrade thread I recently read on this site. (I don't like that I can't readily service it now.) I am just about to order AN fittings with crush washers, but am not certain that is the correct seal. Still hoping someone knows how the stock fuel inlet fitting is sealed.

nativegator

I believe it's just flared, but just contact your local injection shop and you eventually will find someone who will know. These 1st gens are a favorite among diesel mechanics. Let's us know. If I remember right the fuel line is just flared out, but I could have been mistaken and ignored a crush washer stuck in there, lol. All I done is reposition the lines on Cummins by the way make sure your return line screen is clean in the banjo bolt on the pump. If it clogs up and it can you will blow your pump. Some times the rubber tip off the fuel shut off solenoid breaks off and is found here. Also replacement lines are in Ebay sometimes.

hfletcher

I'm not asking how the fuel line seals. I'm asking how the fitting is sealed that the fuel line nut is screwed into. The fitting is threaded into the IP and takes a 17mm wrench. The fuel line nut takes a 14mm wrench. Hope that's clear.