Originally Posted by Jim Lane (Post 2133334)

This is the filter I chose for the initial installation, it is a WIX #24070 and it is a straight filter meaning it has no SCA additives.

After I run this for a few months and filter out the system I am going to use a SCA filter for corrosion protection.

Originally Posted by 1972redneck (Post 3278813)

i know this thread is old, but i have another question.



Do you have a part number for the sca filter?

Originally Posted by jruthven (Post 3293022)

Jim -

You mention something about leaving the ball valves closed until the motor is up to temperature. Is there any particular reason for this? Do you close the ball valves every time you park the truck, and then open them when you're ready to drive?

Thanks in advance!

Originally Posted by Jim Lane (Post 2133335)

Part-3


This fitting you will want to be pointing towards the drivers side headlight, it is not exact but you can move it after the next step for a final alignment.

https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b...J/IMG_5102.jpg

Then you install the ½”MIPx ½” Hose Barb fitting.

https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b...J/IMG_5103.jpg

Using some of the ½” hose connect it to the water outlet and then make a graceful curve and connect it into the Inlet of the filter head and secure it using #10 stainless steel clamps.
Do not over tighten.

https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b...J/IMG_5106.jpg

The hose on the right is the return to the block and is where the filtered coolant will re enter the system.

Notice I have silicone hose.

https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b...J/IMG_5107.jpg

Use a short section of 5/8” Gates Green Stripe hose slip it over the outlet nipple of the heater core and then another short section of hose to continue on to the return pipe.

I am going to replace these hoses with Silicone hose next time I go to my supply house.
At $3.00 per foot I wanted to get the measurements right first.

Install the hose clamps but do not over tighten them.

I used the spring “Corbin” clamp on the heater side.

https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b...J/IMG_5109.jpg

This is what my fitting looks like, it should point straight forward.

https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b...J/IMG_5113.jpg

Then connect the free end of the ½” hose to the hose barb and secure it using a clamp.

https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b...J/IMG_5123.jpg

Route it along the top of the heater pipes and then under the front and across the front of the engine and then connect it to the Outlet of the filter head then install the clamp.

https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b...J/IMG_5114.jpg

Be careful that the hoses do not come in contact with anything sharp, hot or any moving parts.

I installed sections of loom and secured them using Ty-Wraps

https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b...J/IMG_5121.jpg

This is a look at the finished project. No it is not an accident that the gig line of the hoses are clocked the same.

https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b...J/IMG_5125.jpg

All that is left is to install your filter, start the engine and allow it to warm up and then open the ball valves to allow the coolant to flow through the filter and start cleaning your coolant as you drive.

After the engine is up to operating temperature check and be sure to make up the coolant for the additional amount being used in the lines and filter element.

You can tell it is working when you carefully touch the canister and it is the same as the engine temperature.

As the filter becomes clogged it will begin to cool down and will be a signal that it will soon need to be replaced.

This filter is a Bypass style filter and only filters a small portion of the coolant on each pass.

But when the heater valve is in the closed position it forces more coolant through the filter and not the heater core.

This is what I had installed on my truck over the weekend, I hope it will give you the confidence to get the parts and install a filter on your truck.

List of materials:
Fleetguard W/F Head P.N. #204163-S @$20.93
Wix Filter P.N. #24070
1) ½” copper “T”
1) ½” copper street ell.
2) ½”X 1 ¼” sections of copper pipe.
1) ½”X 1” section of copper pipe.
1) ½” Female adapter.
2) 5/8” compression sleeves.
2) 3/8” Ball Valves FIPxMIP
4) #10 Stainless Steel Hose Clamps
2) #12 Stainless Steel Hose Clamps
1) ½” MIP x ½” Hose Barb
4) 3/8” MIP x ½” Hose Barb
4) 3/8” FIPxMIP Street Elbow
1) 3/8” FIPxMIP Street Elbow WATTS P.N.#A-782 (Home Depot)
1) 3/8” FIPx1/2”MIP Bushing

6’ of ½” High Temperature Hose I used Parker #7212 Jiffy Hose Push On
Teflon Tape (Yellow)
2) #10mm1.5x20mm Metric Bolts (Home Depot)
Misc. bolts to secure your particular filter head to the bracket.
Ty-Wraps and Loom to secure your hoses.

The only improvements I am going to make to this are I am going to install a sight glass in line with the output of the filter. (I am going to use a refergent sight glass) and I am going to install a Liquid Crystal thermometer to the side of the filter canister to monitor the inside temperature.

I am going to get these from my HVAC supplier.

If you have any questions about anything in this article please feel free to ask.

Again I hope you will find this information useful as I get my truck one step closer to being the perfect truck.
Thanks Jim