How to fix your window lift motor.
 

PART-1
This is for a 1st. gen truck although others might be diffrent, they all work the same way and can be repaired.

Power windows are really a nice luxury to have but can be such a pain when they don't work, like when you are at a drive through and have to open your door too get your food, or it won't make it up the last inch and it is raining.
But I found they are really pretty easy to fix once you know they operate.

Now that you have the problem narrowed down to the motor that is running but just wont lift the window I will show you how easy it is to fix.

Now since the motor and regulator were assembled and installed before the glass was dropped in there is not a lot of room to get a socket behind the door frame to remove the motor.
So my trick is to use a hole saw and cut some access holes through the door panel. You can skip this but it makes it a lot easer and you don't loose so much blood in the process.


https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...es_in_door.jpg

Next thing you want to do is because we are leaving the glass on the regulator and removing the motor, the window will want to DROP even though there is a flat spring that helps the motor lift the glass.
You need to wedge the glass in the UP position. I use a small wedge like for when you split the door while using a slim jim but a simple spring clothespin will work. Take it apart and wedge it down on the outside of the glass enough so it won’t move. Then disconnect and remove the motor.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...r_on_board.jpg

Move it to where you can work and then study it and make a mental note of how it looks or if you have to, draw a picture of it.
[not everybody takes pictures of their work like I do]
Then lay it on a paper towel or newspaper and take out the 1 screw and remove the cover. You will find a big plastic gear, a metal pinion gear with a 3-lobe cam, grease and a lot of broken up plastic.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...motor_guts.jpg

If it looks similar to this then we can fix it, if the big gear is broken or stripped then it is junk and you need a new one. The parts that are broken are what's left of the safety clutch that is designed to break and stop the window if believe it or not, you got your head stuck in the window as you try to close it.
The parts break up after the many many up and downs of the window.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...tor_guts_2.jpg

Pick out all of the pits of plastic and grease from the gear and from the housing then wipe it out with a clean rag. I don't think I would try a fluorinated spray cleaner because I don't know how the plastic would react.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...motor_guts.jpg

If you feel confident in your ability you can remove the housing from the motor and clean and grease the bushings and check the brushes.
BUT be warned if you pull the motor shaft out of the case the brushes can be broken, do it carefully then split the end with the wires and take it out that way. It really is simple once you see it.
BTW the magnets will try and hold the armature in the center and it is STRONG, just push it through.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...th_housing.jpg

Now once you have it all cleaned up then here is how to fix the problem. Go to your local {good} hardware store I went to at Home Depot and buy 2 packages of 1/2"long X 1/2 OD X .194 ID nylon spacers (ID is not critical but you want the smallest inside hole possible)

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/.../546/parts.jpg

Now you get the idea what we are going to replace!

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/..._installed.jpg

But first we need to trim the height to level with the bottom step inside the gear, you’ll see it. Carefully hold it in a vise and use a fine tooth hacksaw.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ts_fitment.jpg

Then before it will fit, you need to use a file and flatten down 1 side so it will fit the lobe of the cam. If you check 2 pictures up you will see it needs to clear the center circle plus a bit more between the lobes. Do this equally on all 3 parts.
When it is right the pinion gear will fit in between the 3 dogs and it will fit together flush. If it is not flush it will bind when it is back together.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...red_clutch.jpg

How to fix your window lift motor. PART-2
 

PART-2
OK now that you have the dogs cut down and the pinion gear fits inside; be sure it is snug but not binding. Last check and make sure there are no leftover chunks of plastic in the housing.
Then pack the gear and housing with a good grease I used Valvoline Hi Temp disc brake grease.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...in_housing.jpg

Now reinstall the cover and note there is a seal that seals the pinion gear, also the hole for the single screw is countersunk. It will only fit one way.
After it is on then install the screw.
At this point you can test the motor either with a set of jumper leads or take it back to your truck and plug into the harness. It should work smooth in both directions. If you were successful then you can now reinstall it onto the regulator and have power windows that work.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...eassembled.jpg

When my window lift motor broke a few years ago I bought a repair kit from Pep Boys and when I went to install it I found the part did not fit my motor, the gear was too thick so I fixed it with what I had on hand.

I have rebuilt about 6 motors using these instructions and none have failed yet.

I hope all of you do not mind if I can share with you some of my knowledge and help you save some money on the way.

After all you just rebuilt your lift motor by yourself and the entire job cost you less than $2.00
Later Jim

I THINK THAT THIS SHOULD BE "LOCKED" AND PUT IN THE TECH TIPS SECTION!!!!!!!.....With my comments deleted, [whistle] of course [laugh] "GRATE JOB JIM!" Just my .02

Jim, you rock! [guitar]

Thanks for posting this! I just finished doing the repair on my drivers side window motor and IT WORKED!!! Great fix and for only 2bux!

I didn't have anything to use as a spacer so I ended up JB welding the gears together...

I'll post back when it breaks...

Great post and pics. I have 2 trucks to try this on, now- mine and Mom's

Daniel

How Sweet It Is: Nice Job:

Darn. I just paid good money for a new rig.

Put this in the "Sticky". It'll come up a lot as rigs get older.

Great work, Jim.

Regards, DBF

Both of my windows have the click of death..just a few weeks apart too. Hit the button and they clickclickclick and nothing happens.

Thanks for the write up. Maybe I'll tackle this tomorrow

========
Update: I repaired both motors today. Worked great!

Den

It's been in there for months. :)

Under "Window motor repair" in the "body" post.

That was a stupid idea, you moron... The JB Weld lasted a record of three weeks. :rolleyes: The gears seperated, and I couldn't even find any 'Weld residue on either one. Never had JB Weld fail like that; maybe the grease I used dissolved it? [eyecrazy]

Now it's repaired with the wheels off of an off-brand Chinese Matchbox-style Russian ballistic missile crawler taking the place of Jim's fancy filed nylon spacers... [laugh]

Hi,
My name is Brock and i am new to the boards, and recently purchased a 1993 D250 with the cummins. This is a family truck, as i bought is off my grandpa who took immaculant care of the truck. It has no rust and everything works, except the drivers window.

I am not sure if i understand all the symptoms that require the window motor to be repaired like this. My drivers window is acting up and i'm not sure what it is. Here is what it is doing:

Push the window switch and nothing happens drivers or passenger window. Push on switch trim and push switch and passenger motor works fine, drivers motor nothing. If i push real hard on the armrest of the door pannel and push on the switch trim and push the button, the drivers window will go down, but then it is real hard to get back up.

Do you think i need to modify my window motor like this, or do you think i have another problem.

Any help would be apprecieated.

Thanks
Brock

Sounds like a bad connection at the plug on the switch. Pop the door panel off (a couple screws about 3/4 of the way down, remove the door handle, then the panel pries off - use a trim tool or a putty knife) and check out the plug there. Worst case is you'll need a new switch if something's cracked.

Either of my window motors did not look like this on my '93. I tore it all apart and there was a completely different lobe system, basically un-repairable. I ended up putting it all back together and greasing everything and anything I could reach. My windows are better but not great.

It was obviously different once it was out. The cover plate was held on by two tabs opposite one another not screws like Jim's.

Just a FYI for people who are hoping this is the problem...