How do I adjust this?
How do I adjust this?
Is it possible to adjust the kickdown rod for the automatic transmissions, if so, where is it at and how is it done? It seems as if I can mash it to the floor and it never drops down a gear. This makes it seem as if it is a natural DOG and it seems to fall on its face. When I manually pull it down to 2nd gear, it is like a different truck, then it will really scoot on down the road.
Thanks,
Wheelo
Thanks,
Wheelo
Where the TV (kickdown) cable attaches to the throttle linkage there is a little clip that has to be opened to take the pressure off the sheath that surrounds the cable.
Move toward the front (I think) to get to the point where it defuels before shifting, then move rearward 1/4" at a time until you get it to shift without defueling.
Best as I can explain it. Hope it helps
Mark
Move toward the front (I think) to get to the point where it defuels before shifting, then move rearward 1/4" at a time until you get it to shift without defueling.
Best as I can explain it. Hope it helps
Mark
When adjusting the kick-down cable, be aware.
The cable effects a number of transmission functions. One of which is the clutch-pack pressures.
When Grandma goes and gets groceries, she's easy on the pedal. Her short throttle stroke moves the kick-down cable a small amount. This among other things results in lower clutch-pack pressures, allowing a nice smooth bang free engagement.
When Granpa gets in. it's a different story. Pops floors it to shut up the kid with the obnoxious fart-pipe. With that, the kick-down cable moves to its extreme, and among other things, it raises the clutch-pack pressures much higher so as to not allow the packs to slip.
It's be similar when pulling a heavy load. You're into the throttle deeper, putting more power through the trans, and with that, the line pressures are higher to keep things from slipping.
What's my point?
If the kick-down cable is ill adjusted, you run the risk of burning up a clutch-pack by not having enough line pressure for the clutch-packs to hold the load.
One should be careful. Perhaps even looking into a shift kit (maybe even ask a trans pro).
Good reading ~ http://www.jcj.net/dodgeram/trans_adjustment.htm
Hope this helps.
The cable effects a number of transmission functions. One of which is the clutch-pack pressures.
When Grandma goes and gets groceries, she's easy on the pedal. Her short throttle stroke moves the kick-down cable a small amount. This among other things results in lower clutch-pack pressures, allowing a nice smooth bang free engagement.
When Granpa gets in. it's a different story. Pops floors it to shut up the kid with the obnoxious fart-pipe. With that, the kick-down cable moves to its extreme, and among other things, it raises the clutch-pack pressures much higher so as to not allow the packs to slip.
It's be similar when pulling a heavy load. You're into the throttle deeper, putting more power through the trans, and with that, the line pressures are higher to keep things from slipping.
What's my point?
If the kick-down cable is ill adjusted, you run the risk of burning up a clutch-pack by not having enough line pressure for the clutch-packs to hold the load.
One should be careful. Perhaps even looking into a shift kit (maybe even ask a trans pro).

Good reading ~ http://www.jcj.net/dodgeram/trans_adjustment.htm
Hope this helps.
You can also tweak the governor so that it doesn't fall on it face as soon to.
Back the governor screw out oh, say, 3 full turns and try that. It should allow you to have a higher governed limit, which, in turn will help the TC stay in it's efficiency band due to higher RPM overall.
pb...
Back the governor screw out oh, say, 3 full turns and try that. It should allow you to have a higher governed limit, which, in turn will help the TC stay in it's efficiency band due to higher RPM overall.
pb...
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