12V_shooter25

I was scoping around the net today looking for some turbo upgrades for my truck. I've been wanting to upgrade the H1C to an HX-35 but I've not been having any luck finding one in this area. After looking around for a while, I went on "gillettdiesel.com" and found some turbo upgrades for the H1C/HX-35. I understand the HX has a 12cm2 housing and I was looking to add one to my H1C. I found a "genuine Holset" 12cm2 exhaust housing, non-wastegated, shourt outlet housing on their site for $250. Claims to be a straight "bolt on" mod for the H1C and HX-35. The same site area includes 14cm2 and 16cm2 housings for the same thing.

I was also wanting to know what would be the best compressor housing and wheel upgrade. The site offers 56, 58, and 60mm setups for the 1991.5 - 1993 trucks. I would appreciate if someone with better knowledge of this could lead me in the right direction of what to (or what not to ) purchase.

I'm aiming to lower my EGTs some while cleaning up smoke. My truck will hit over 1200* WOT and I'm afraid to go any farther than that. Smoke isn't bad unless it's on the floor with less than 15psi of boost.

I just want a quicker spool to gain throttle response and gain boost faster. Also looking to increase air flow a lot to accommodate for bigger injections/pump mods in the future. Any replies would be appreciated! Thanks!

Bencie

The 12cm housing is a great upgrade especially with a std trans. If you add the 12cm housing without doing the compressor, chances are you'll get surging since the original h1c housing doesn't have MWE slots (map width enhancement slots). The best choice from Gillette is the 60mm wheel and housing which has the MWE slots. With this turbo upgrade, it will make a huge improvment in throttle response and make any smoke issues very controlable.
I did this same thing on my 92 with a used 12cm housing and the GDS 60mm wheel and housing kit and love it. Essentially you are making the hybrid hx35/40 that are offered by different companys. You'll like it alot.

12V_shooter25

I was in contact with some people from GDS here a few days ago and had a long conversation with one of the gentlemen. I told him my situation with the truck and how it's a daily driver that is towing less than 5k. He recommended the 14cm2 housing for me accompanied with the 60mm compressor upgrade. Since I already have an issue with EGTs, the 12cm2 was out of the question. At first, the 16cm2 was going to be the one but I want a quicker spool than that. the gentleman claimed that the 14cm2 housing would work perfectly for what I want (quick spool, low smoke, good response, controllable EGTs). He also claimed that the 14cm2 housing would still be a good choice if I wanted to do a mild injector upgrade in the future (50hp max).

My truck is kind of a Frankenstein because I found out over the summer that it's originally a non-I/C that has had a factory-style intercooler and turbo install. I originally thought it was I/C but after installing an AC compressor, found out it wasn't. I ordered the compressor for an I/C truck and all the inlets for the AC lines were in the wrong place and not even the same inlet type. I went back to the parts store and ordered the non-I/C compressor, which turned out to be a perfect fit.

The next thing I will do is probably the mild injector upgrade. I just want to know if this something I should do or just hold off. I understand non-I/C injectors can support 350hp? (got that number from another thread on here). If the upgrade sounds like a good idea, which way should I turn? Industrial Injection 50hp? PODs? Thanks for the help y'all. I'm kind of new to this stuff so any new knowledge is appreciated.

Crazy Matt

Non ic injectors will make 400whp with enough air.

I probally make more then 400 with stock injectors - but the trans seems to hate me.


Id recommend something bigger then a H1C.

John93CTD

what kinda set up are you running? thats about where i wanna be but wanna keep it reliable due to it is a daily driver and also how does yours pull?

Terraizer

A few months ago i installed a GDS 60MM compressor upgarde and a BD diesel 14CM2 housing on my 93 and i'am really liking it, it took about 2-3 hours to do the install from start to finish, most or the time was pulling the down pipe, cutting the flange off and rewelding it 1.25"s back. I pulled the turbo off the truck and did the swap on the bench much easier then hanging over the fender. Its a nice upgrade, also installed a set of 190 injectors, truck runs as strong as my 99 now.

1STGENFARMBOY

I have a 16 cm with a 60mm and it does great for what i do, and that is tow heavy.

with all the stuff in my sig and an A518 i can only see 1250* in a worst case heavy pull up hill.

dieselJon

Don't get a 12cm non-wastegated housing. The backpressure will get too high in the upper RPMs.

If you want the power Non-IC injectors give you, and the price of the 60mm and wastegated 12cm housing, you can get a box stock Borg Warner S300 in the 62/65 flavor or 63/68. They can take a beating AND supply you enough air for your injectors without EGT issues.

John93CTD

why did you have to move the dp 1.25 back?

Crazy Matt

wastegated housing is longer




Far as my mods go:


Ported head, ats manifold, turbo housing, balanced bottom end, camshaft, 3" crossover pipe, super 40, stock injectors, maxed pump, timing shims, 30psi of fuel pressure and prolly some other stuff I forget.

Trans is a 727 witha low stall convertor, shift kit and some more clutches/ steels. Trans holds fine- convertor is another story. Convertor dont hold as good as it should. Prolly do to 53 psi of boost

It pulls pretty hard. 3rd gear @ 40mph it will break the tires loose.


I still want more power. Next step is a better trans, some water meth , water to air ic setup and prolly a P pump.

John93CTD

right on, is there any particular reason why you went with a gated housing? would a non gated housing be fine?

Crazy Matt

It was available at the time. Could find anything else that didnt cost a arm and a leg.


Gated is nice to keep the boost down ,save the headgasket if ur not running studs, keep drive pressure down and keep the turbo in its map.


Or do like me and have it bolted shut and make enough boost where it just builds heat with no studs

John93CTD

im gonna go with the gds 60mm upgrade (hard to beat for the money difference) but i will have to run it with the stock 18cm housing for a while. Just until i can come across a 14 or 16. im just curious how the 18 would do....

1STGENFARMBOY

It will be a little laggy with an 18, with a 5 spd the 14 would be a good size because it has to spool in each gear wher an auto spools once on take off and stays there.

Terraizer

I had to shorten the downpipe do to the W/G housing being longer then the 18.5 non W/G housing. I went W/G do to the fact i got a smoking deal on a New BD diesel 14 W/G housing on ebay, like a 1/3rd of retail or i would have gone non W/G. I have a 4" DiamondEye exhaust kit that hasen't been on to long so removing the down pipe was pretty easy. Next mod is to install the Superduty intercooler i have and make up some 3" tubes for it.