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HELP!!! Gauge install turned nightmare

Old 12-02-2018, 06:46 AM
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HELP!!! Gauge install turned nightmare

Okay so originally i had a isspro tach and mechanical boost and pyro gauge. Took those out. I cut the wires for the tach and put electrical tape over them. I put in 4 isspro ev2 gauges. Put a jumper fuse in the cigar lighter spot and then put in the 1 amo inline fuse they gave for the ignition. For the dimmer i used a quick splice connector and jumped into the light in the ash tray and the i grounded everything to a spot under the dash. So in trying to get the lights to come on when i turn my parking lights on my ignition cylinder broke. So i replaced that. Last night i got the lights to come on on the gauges but i couldnt start the truck because my battery was dead and was charging. So today i go out and clean up the wiring. Zip tiped all the wires out of the way and such. Go to start the truck and my gauges dont work and now my parking brake and abs lights are on. I turned the truck off and went to start it again to make sure my ignition cylinder was working right and it didnt wanted to start. Like it would fire but not stay running. I gave it alittle pedal when i tried again and it kinda chugged and the idled normal. Still abs lights on and no gauge lights or anything. Idk if it was stalling when i tried to restart it cause i didnt let it warm up. I put a fuel pressure gauge in so idk if air got in the lines from where i took the banjo bolt out and i didnt let it run long enough to bleed itself out. Help me out guys today is the last semi warm day for lord knows how long
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Old 12-02-2018, 08:56 AM
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It may help if you told us what kind, model and year your truck is.
Are you positive that you wired everything properly?
If you are only installing gauges, how did you come to break the ignition cylinder?
What did you do to make the battery go flat?
What 4 gauges did you install?
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Old 12-02-2018, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Mexstan View Post
It may help if you told us what kind, model and year your truck is.
Are you positive that you wired everything properly?
If you are only installing gauges, how did you come to break the ignition cylinder?
What did you do to make the battery go flat?
What 4 gauges did you install?
i thought i posted this is the "1st gen ram" section. Its a 1993 dodge w250. Pretty positive i wired everything right. I had the gauge lights working before i tied everything up. The ignition broke because of how many times i was turning the key on and off trying to make sure everything had power all while being in a awkward postition under the dash. Battery went dead again because of how many times on and off with the key. Installed pyro, boost, trans temp and fuel pressure
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Old 12-02-2018, 03:39 PM
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Sounds like your battery is a tad on the weak side.....shouldn't go dead unless your grid heaters were firing up every time you turned the ignition on? It's possible you got some air in there, I take it you did not prime anything after opening the fuel line? The jump you put in the cigar lighter fuse position....did you put two fuses in?
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Old 12-03-2018, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by thrashingcows View Post
Sounds like your battery is a tad on the weak side.....shouldn't go dead unless your grid heaters were firing up every time you turned the ignition on? It's possible you got some air in there, I take it you did not prime anything after opening the fuel line? The jump you put in the cigar lighter fuse position....did you put two fuses in?
grid were firing everytime. I did not prime the fuel system i didnt think it would make this much fuss. And at first i did not use 2 fuses but then i i put another on of the same amperage and it worked. Used a multimeter with key on on fss wire. No power. Test lighted everything fuse and all were getting power. Put a new ignition switch in and abs and e brake light went out and had power at fss wire. Ran a wire from positive battery to fss, heard some clicking when attaching it. Started the truck, had to pump the pedal. Idled for a few seconds then slowly died. Couple guys on facebook said air in the fuel system. What do you think???
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Old 12-03-2018, 10:51 AM
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Air in the fuel system.
I would bleed the air, charge battery to get her going.
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Old 12-03-2018, 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by oliver foster View Post
Air in the fuel system.
I would bleed the air, charge battery to get her going.
just crack a couple injector lines and start cranking or????
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Old 12-03-2018, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Oldbull1997 View Post


just crack a couple injector lines and start cranking or????
If you want to kill your already weak battery that is an option.

I would start with the bleeder bolt on the fuel filter housing and use the thumb depressor on your lift pump.
When you get good fuel there, close it.
Then open your FSS using you jumper wire to the battery. Crack a few injector lines at the injectors, more thumb priming.

Once you have fuel there you can probably start it up using the battery and starter. I rarely have to bleed all 6 injector line for it to come back to life.
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Old 12-03-2018, 02:39 PM
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If you would like a more detailed fuel line bleeding explanation, do a search here on the 1st gen section.
I know I have answered the question in detail myself a dozen time in various threads.
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Old 12-03-2018, 02:47 PM
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Oliver, I almost added to this thread should I give advice on how to do this with starter fluid?
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Old 12-03-2018, 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by ZAAR View Post
Oliver, I almost added to this thread should I give advice on how to do this with starter fluid?
If you like...just add the bit about disconnecting the grid heater....so he doesn't make new bigger problems.

I try to never use the stuff. Bleeding air out of the lines in not fun, but it is not that hard ETHER...I meant either..pun intended.
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Old 12-03-2018, 03:35 PM
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old bull, so... disconnect the grid heater lines on both ends. get some upper lubricant starter fluid if you want to add some help to your dry start id recommend a dash of kroil oil(WD-40 which I still say does not work) before and and spritz of starter fluid
do understand that doing this you are on your own accord as I cannot control how heavy your hand is on the fluid.
this was always used as a last ditch effort on starting and purging air from the lines. make sure that all connections are solid and tight. so theoretically you are artificially running the engine with the fluid in sense speeding the bleed.
do not keep spraying the fluid in but this should be sufficient enough to assist on a quick bleed. again (DISCONNECT YOUR GRID HEATER LINES COMPLETELY) let us know if it helped.
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