Hi all,

So I'm new to 1st gen dodges, and this forum.

I have a 92 W250 Cummins that I recently purchased, problem is I know nothing of it's history; the previous owner/s was an idiot who knew nothing of maintenance, or anything else. I do know that it has a crossover steering kit, 35" tires and approximately a 6" lift

My problem:
I recently purchased a reman steering box, after install check lock to lock, and find that it's not hitting the R/H stop when the wheels are turned to the left. I installed the new box with a new drop pitman arm from skyjacker (D45 I think) as the old one had been allowed to run loose and was sacked out. I've tried everything that I can think of, adjusting the crossover drag link (got the right side closer to the stop but ended up pushing the left side farther away, so no dice) next I ground the indexing marks off the pitman arm and recentered the shaft with the tires as straight ahead as possible (no dice), I then tried to compensate by offsetting the steering box by one turn to the right from the steering wheel (still doesn't hit the right stop when turning left, other side still good). Today I put the front axle up on stands to check if that was stopping me (nope) set the steering stops so the axle u-joints don't bind, cranked the tire and steering wheel all the way to the left and put the pitman arm on in that position (now im going full lock to lock). Thinking all is well drop the truck back on the ground, and find that it is now about 1/2" from either stop at full lock.

Please help, this has got me stumped

 

You can have the internal stops removed by a rebuilder, which eliminates your issue all together, as it won't matter where center is anymore, as your axle knuckles have stops which will then come into play..

I had them remove mine when,they rebuilt my gear.

 

The length proportions of the pitman arm vs. the steering arm plays a role too. i.e. a longer pitman arm will steer 'further'.

 

I was dissapointed to learn that I couldn't set the internal stops like you can on a big truck. I don't like the idea of removing the internal stops as I would think that they function as a relief valve in either direction (like they do on big trucks), but then again there could be a separate relief valve all together. I just don't know enough about these trucks yet. Given that the builder was willing to remove them there must be a separate relief valve; otherwise, I don't think that they would be willing to do that.

 

I don't think that would "fix" the problem as I have no problem going wheel stop to stop when the truck is on stands, but that might be my easiest solution. I think what's happening is the flex in the frame and suspension (no track bar or sway bar of any kind) are taking up the remaining amount of sector shaft before the wheel end can rotate to it's stop; which would explain why I have no problems in the air.

 

Ya, when the truck is on the ground, the body/frame is likely moving sideways against the applied steering force. To what degree depends on how tall & supple your leafs are.

Are you running highsteer arms? Or crossover onto a modified (stock position) tie-rod? I would sooner maximize the steerage and rely on the knuckle stops. The stops are there to prevent over-steering in the first place. I know my buddies' 2ndgens steer crazy sharp... I'm looking for that kind of results when I go crossover.

 

When i put crossover on my 91 i could steer much sharper. I set the mech. stops to just before the internal stops.

The long saga is here if it helps anyone:

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...2-lift-291427/

 

My '95 CTD regular cab had a surprisingly tight turning radius with the stock steering gear. Not what my XJ Cherokee has but actually pretty close.