Well...my shut down solenoid decided to fail a few minutes ago. Could some of ya'll post some pics of where the solenoid is? Or maybe a thread of how to remove it and whats involved? I have already read the article in the sticky on how to repair it once I remove it.

Thanks.

 

See the round fuzzy thing top left? The fuel solenoid is just to the right. On the injection pump, just above the fuel injection lines. It has the two 1/4" push-on electrical connectors held on with the single nut.




Removing it can be a pain.

Be sure to remove the electrical connectors to start with.
If you've got a slender crow's-foot wrench, that'll work . . .. sorta.
I've found tapping the end of one of the flats with a punch and hammer will get it moving. It's sealed with an O-ring so once you get it around a turn or so, you can finish it by hand.

If you look closely at the above image, you'll notice I cut that bracket out of the way. That gives much more room to work with.

Hope this helps.


Ummm, . . . . I'm assuming you've turned up the fuel. That in combination with stock injectors results in excessive pressures on the tip of the solenoid's plunger (when getting out of the throttle quickly), which tears out plugs. Replacing the solenoid, and changing nothing else will typically result in . . . . a second solenoid tip being torn.

Consider that.

 

Thanks. So the plunger will be visible once I take the solenoid out? I take it you can't put a wrench on it.?

 

Yup, as you remove he solenoid's body, the plunger and its spring will most likely remain in the injection pump (easily removed).

These fine forums language expectations prohibit me from clearly stating how much of a pleasure removing the blame thing can be.

 

Haha. Thanks. I guess I'm going to have fun with this.

 

Are you sure the solenoid has failed?, .... try hot-wiring it with and listen for a "click", .... or even leave the wire on and try starting the engine. On mine the wire that was supposed to open it died dead one day. I've run mine with something else for several years now, ...

 

The easiest way to get it out is with a 24mm crows foot wrench or a thin 24mm. I have both and it's still a pain in the EDIT. Once you've pulled it, remove the spring and plunger. Leave the oring on the end of the housing. Get yourself a manual choke cable and hook it into the emergency kill lever with a drilled bolt. End of problems. If you are dead set on running the factory solenoid, get a VW shutoff solenoid. I heard that they're only like $24 bucks from VW versus $60 from cummins AND they supposedly have a metal tip rather than a rubber one. I cannot confirm this but am looking into it.

 

just cut the top off of that bracket on the back of the pump. the peice that is like a plate on the side of the injection lines. cut it flush with the top of the injection pump

its extra unneeded metal.

then you can get a wrench right on the solenoid.

 

I've had this problem before. All i did was change the electrical connector and that fixed it, might be a good place to start

 

It sounds like there is cornfusion with whether his truck won't start or won't shut down. I am thinking it won't shut off, so the pull cable would work or the plunger fix. I have the pull cable on mine. It adds to the cool factor.

 

I've got both a cable and the solenoid.

When my rubber tip went south I tried trimming it down like one of the stickies recommends but found it only prolongs the agony. The rubber will still tear off.

While at S.O.P. this year I mentioned I had replaced the plunger a couple of times and it was going south again because the truck would not shut off all the time.
PToombs took the rubber completely off and checked the end for a hole. When he found none he said I was lucky I didn't have a hole through the bottom and I coul run the plunger without the rubber tip and it would work just as good.
That's been 2 months now plus larger sticks and turbo - and a somewhat heavier right foot ...Love the extra performance...But to the point - the shutoff solenoid hasn't skipped a beat. Stops the truck every time. Now I set my timer and lock the truck and know it will stop.

BTW - the solenoid I have in is a VW part I picked up on eBay when the first one went south about 2 years ago. Don't know if the Cummins part will have a solid plunger tip or not.

 

Well...I got my unit fixed last night. I wasn't bad at all, only took about 45 mins. The plunger had 1 tiny piece of the rubber gone, so I sanded it down past the torn part and it shut down perfect.

Thanks for all the help.
Justin

 

When mine stopped shutting down, I installed a pull cable. I never pulled the soleniod out. I did not look at it or take anything apart. Am I putting something in danger? Do I need to "fix" this better than I have already?