Howdy yall

Haven't been on the site alot before but I need some help with questions. I know I've asked before about ideas and general upkeep but deals kept falling through with trucks but I finally got one!! It's awesome! '93 Dodge W350 of course with the CTD. 161k miles,auto,205,60F/70R with 3.55s,don't know if the rear is a posi or not,but it lit all 4 back tires up already so I'm guessing it's a a posi Ok I'm new to diesels period but have always liked em. Now that this truck is my daily driver I need to know this
stuff for sure. I know about where to get fuel,anywhere they sell diesel a good bit. I've just filled the tank up,owned the truck 2 days now I'm fixing to start servicing everything,questions and ideas as follows

1. I know I need to put fuel conditioner in it,but what kind,and how often?

2. Do I need to put anything special besides just regular anti-freeze in the radiator?(somebody told me I need a conditioner in the anit-freeze also)

3. What kind of oil,filter,how much,how often do you change the oil,do I need to put any additives(Lucas oils etc etc)

4. It's a auto OD trans,what kind of trans is it? Anything special on servicing it? Approx. how much fluid? Any certain kind of filter?

5. Any special kind of fluids in the diffs?

6. I know a diesel has to sit and warm up in the mornings,approx. how long is good to let one sit and warm up? In summer condtions and winter condtions(REMINDER! I live in northeastern Alabama so it don't get extremly cold!)

7. I've heard not to give a diesel hell until it gets good and warm,what would this hurt? I had to do so yesterday morning accidently pulled out in front of a car

8. What would letting one "cool down"? I've heard this also,to let the EGT's come down and I know a good bit about this. But what is a approx. time to let it sit and idle,cause I don't have a pyrometer or anything.

9. It would be O.K. to straight pipe it correct? I've always heard it would be fine. My uncle said NOT to straight pipe it though,didn't give a reason. Is he right?

10. I'm working on building the Old Smoky Mount outta some scrap diamond plate we have at work,I was told to get a BHAF when I done this for the open element filter. Are they the best bets?

11. I believe the truck has had the pump turned up slightly,cause it'll boil the black smoke And smoke all four rear tires in 1st,2nd and 3rd gear

12. I'm wanting a pyrometer,boost and trans temp gauges. What company would yall suggest for good quality long lasting gauges?

13. Anything as in general maintainence to do that I've overlooked? Please help a moron out


Sorry for the long a$$ list but I want to learn and am eager to learn. Help a young 17 yr old kid out

Jimmy

 

First of all welcome Mopar kid glad you're here. I will tackle some of your questions.
1. I use Satnadyne performance formula as a fuel conditioner - check on-line for the best price.
2. Cummins recomends anti-freeze changes every 24,000 miles. With regular ethylene glycol - the green stuff. I use Zerex mixed 50/50 with distilled water. My radiator looks like new internally.
3. There are a lot of good oils out there, Valvoline, Delo 400 and Shell Rotella. I wont get into a Brand war here. Filters I use Fleetguard Stratapore - Cummins can supply.
4. I run an NV4500HD manual so I will leave this to others.
5. Again no brand wars - I use a full synthetic 75/90 GL5 in my rear diff along with a friction modifier.
6. I live in Portland OR - temps are probably nearly the same as yours. I make sure oil psi is good then drive reasonably until the engine temp. comes up.
7. Thats the way I drive mine.
8. Get gauges!!! I like my pre-turbo to read 300 degrees for at least 1 min.before I shut down.
9. Go ahead straight pipe her. Diesels like to breath.
10. Works for me although I use a "Green High Performance" A/F. Similar to a K&N but better. They were developed for the Paris to Dakar off road race.
11 Sounds like it has been turned up. Check to see if the tamper caps are gone from the fuel screw and high idle.
12.I'll let others jump in here.

Good luck.
Bob

 

1.fuel conditioner isnt a must.
2. Just use good green type antifreeze, service every 2 yrs.or 24k
3. Use diesel rated ONLY oil, Delo or shell rotella 15/40. or the like.
use good filters ONLY, Fleetguard, WIX, Baldwin, NO frams!!! every 4 or 5k for me.
4. 518 trans, old style 727 with O/D makes it a 518. DexIII or? 12 qarts or so. keep an eye on condition, burnt etc.
5. If you tow mostly use 85/140 in the diffs and TC. otherwise 80/90 wt. you need to find out if its a LSD unit cause you will have to add LSD enhanser. check the tag on the rear diff or on the build sticker under the hood.
6. It gets 20 or so here in the winter and I let it warm for 5 mins or so the take it easy.
7. Its hard on any engine cold nailing it, bearings, oil flow etc. Diesels run on heat to ignite the fuel/oil.
8. If your towin or pushin hard let it cool for at leasr 4-5 mins. If your sayin your smokin all 4 rears in 1,2,3 its far from stock you NEED a pyro before it has meltdown.
9. Many straight pipe,
10. but it will be loud.
11. personal preferance.
12.Autometer, Issopro, just get good ones spend the $$$$. PYRO,Trans, boost is nice to have.
13. Flush the brake system, Fuel filter, chassis lube. $$$$
Have fun.

 

Welcome, friend. I'll take a whack at these questions so you have a few opinions to choose from.

1. I don't use any, but I'm particular where I buy my fuel.
2. Use the green stuff every other year. Cummins will sell pre-mixed called "Compleat" if you want to do that.
3. Don't need addititves. Valvoline, Delo, Shell Rotella all are good. I change mine every 6,000 miles, flush every 12,000 miles and send samples off for chemical analysis every 12,000 miles.
4. This could be your biggest problem. The stock A518 is rugged but doesn't like heat and the Cummins will heat it up quickly. Install a transmission temperature gauge so you know how hard you're whupping it. Use ATF+3 or ATF+4 (Chrysler/Mopar fluids). Search these forums for more information. Prepare to put in a better torque converter to couple more of the engine HP to the ground.
5. 80/90 weight, then add the Chrysler/Moper additive if you have limited slip clutches.
6. Wait for the engine start light, start it, wait for oil pressure to come up, then drive without loading it heavily until the engine temp starts climbing.
7. Not recommended but ....
8. Install a pyro gage to see the output temp of the engine in the manifold. When it comes down to 300*F you can shut down.
9. Sure, make noise. No prob.
10. Haven't done this yet.
11. Must be, with that auto.
12. I use ISSPRO. Don't forget the tach, which you can plug in to an already-existing jack near the steering column.
13. Use good fuel, use good filters, do maintenance at recommended intervals. It pays.
PS: A person who asks good questions like these is far from a "moron".
Best wishes, DBF

 

Stanadyne performance formula, Howes meaner power cleaner has good lubricity/detergent properties .....
You can use a "type III" oil for the trans. If you want a bit more "grabby" shift try using Dexron type II.
Just don't go with the Type IV oils...

All the other suggestions are excellent and come from a huge group of users and, is one of the largest database's for these trucks....

pastor bob....

 

Not gonna cover all 13, most have been well covered.
1. I like Stanadyne PF, too.
3. No additives, just oil. All the name brand 15w-40's are good enough, I'm partial to Mobil. I use Donaldson ELF filters, but anything except Fram is OK by me, even Super-Tech at Wally-Mart. I'm changing my oil yearly, which works out to around 8k for me. Oil has gotten much better since 1993.
6. It's not. Drive it gently as soon as you have oil pressure.
7. Flogging any engine before it's up to temp is a bad idea. Getting hit is worse though. In addition to bearing problems, it's also easier to blow the head gasket when the engine is cold.
8. Listen to one song on the radio, or buy a cool down timer for around $70.
9. He's wrong. I love mine.
10. Yes, get the BHAF. Paper filters out more dirt, no matter what K&N's marketing dept. says. You won't notice much noise out of the stock turbo.
11. In a big way!
12. Autometer.
13. Make sure the KDP has been dealt with. Run a search on "dowel" and you won't be able to sleep tonight.

 

Awww wanna...why did you have to mention #13!? I had forgot all bout them things! I'm not sure if it has been performed,is there anyway to tell if it has or not? Remember I don't really know much bout these things. There are a few special "Cummins mechanics" around here,I'd rather just let them take care of it cause I don't want to mess it up.

On another note,this evening,gettin in my truck getting ready to leave,wait for the "wait to start" light to go off,hit the switch,NOTHING I didn't think much bout it,turned the switch again....NOTHING My heart SANK,owned it two days and I've already screwed it up,long story short I looked and worried and about cried a time or two,finally remember that I jiggled the neutral safety switch last night,tightened it back onto the trans,hit the switch,INSTANT HAPPINESS! The good ole smell of a diesel. I can breath again!!!!

On one more note,can anyone help me with this question?

Question #14 The battery on my truck is showing it's age a little,it still starts it but I want to put a new one on it. What kind of battery would be my best choice? I thought I heard somewhere that I believe Interstate made a really good battery? A "Workaholic" I believe or something. Maybe it wasn't Interstate,what would anyone suggest for a good cold cranking amp,long lasting dependable battery,I know a Cummins has to have a lot of juice to turn one over. Help me out on this one please! Thanks alot yall have been a TON of help!!!

Jimmy

 

Jimmy- If it's been tabbed there's no way to tell from the outside. If it's been jigged there will be a setscrew hiding under the fan hub. My plan with batteries is to buy a cheap one and just replace it after 2 winters. It's always worked well in the past, the only times I've needed a jump I've been an idiot and left the headlights on.

 

Any BCI Series 31 battery with 925 CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) will do. Some folks like one brand, others like another brand.

I had to buy one in South Dakota in May 2001 on my way through. Got one from Carquest; it's been fine for three years.

http://www.delphi.com/pdf/e/battery_hd_na.pdf

is a link to a pdf file that shows a complete line of 31-series batteries.

DBF

 

On the oil Ive heard of people running 15w-30 John Deere Engine oil in there diesel trucks. We use it in our combine and lug the sh*t out of it in the fall. And i was reading in a magazine it is best to buy premixed anta freze for diesel engines to keep the cooling system in top shape.

 

As far as the battery, stick with a full size in the 1000 amp range. The compact ones don't seem to like the vibrations of the diesel with the plates mounted cosely.

As far as getting on it when it's cold, there won't be any immediate failure. Occasionally doing this to save your hide isn't gonna hurt it. When you make a habit out of it will hurt it's longevity. Until it's at operating temp, the pistons haven't expanded to take up the full bore. This allows oil to blow by and be consumed when idling. When over accellerating, you may push fuel into the oil and dilute it. Idleing will not help this. The enging by nature will not get up to operating temp on it's own. You have to drive it or turn the idle up for it to build pressure/temp. That's also why you'll hear people not recommending to idle for extended periods. The engine will eventually cool itself to below operating temp and slowly start consuming oil. Not tons, but some. Unburned fuel/ carbon may deposit on the valves as well if this is done a lot. Some freeway driving and fuel conditioner can help here. I usually use conditioner in the winter to fight any water or other problems with the winter blend. I also had to dump a lot in when I accidently filled up with kerosene once.....