Coming home from work tonite, switched from high beam to low beam, and the lights went out. (alll dash and parking lights are ok) Tried kicking it up to high beam but it wont stay on via the turn signal lever. If I keep the turn switch lever pulled back, I have high beams but when I let off the lever, I have no headlights.

Is there a relay somewhere under the hood for the headlights that may have blown ? I dont think its the headlight switch itself, am thinking of a relay maybe. What do you all think ?

 

It's the switch.

 

100% its the switch. It's been posted many times that the problem with the system is the lack of relays. Thankfully, Mr. Jim Lane created a solution that you can build that solves the problem. This (headlight relay upgrade) should be a standard must do for everyone on this board.

 

Well, I put a new switch in it, but that wasnt it.

Come to find out, one of the connectors inside the plug in had come off the post it was supposed to be on. . After pulling most of the dash apart just to get to it and put the connector back on the switch, and also changing a fuse in the fuse block, its back to working now.

I am going to mount a set of driving lights on it soon as a back up.

 

If the connector block is discolored or distorted at all, the connector and the switch will fail again soon under load.

The switch is marginal. The connector on the switch is marginal. Jim's relay mod takes the high current flow off those marginal parts and puts it all on inexpensive and reliable relays and relatively short, heavy wiring. Lights are brighter, and switch and connector life starts to approach that of the engine. (eternity)

It's actually easier to install than properly installed underbumper lights.

 

you can also relay allow high and low beams together, with the silverstars, the output compares to offroad lighting

 

Well, not to put myself down by any means.....I am not an electrician. I woulld need to find someone to put together that contraption in Jims post and I could probably install it.

I could see where its gotten hot and melted some of the inside of the connector before and I dont think you can get those connectors anymore. Might be time to trade it off, as I can have an unreliable vehicle (all because of dodges faulty design of wiring.

 

I need to get this done to my truck, I have not had the time. GIT-R-DONE same thing happen to me, I know how you feel.

Would these work?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-pc-12-VOL...item3f0dbc3648

Or do I need open relays without the pig tail? Why do they call them "BOSCH STYLE?" Junk?

 

I'm no electrician either, I can barely solder, but I was able to do this mod without too much trouble. Just take your time, follow the directions, and give yourself a nice comfortable place to work (and don't cut corners on the components! :-)). No question these trucks will test your character and this is a relatively easy to solve issue (the solution is proven, no guessing) that will give you confidence to tackle bigger projects as they undoubtedly will come up.

 

I just ordered the correct parts for this mod, cost me about $50 for four relays, self reset breaker. I need to get the wire and all that jazz. If you want I can build you this whip, doesn't look hard.

I found a TK 30amp breaker made in the USA and the TYCO part number it; 330-070 for the relay.

 

I may take you up on that Bannered if I decide to keep the truck.


My first question is:

Is there anything I can put down into the back of the connector that will hold the female connector(s) that would secure it into the plug? There is NO WAY I am going to find another headlight plug (let alone wire it up right...lol).
I didnt know if silicone or something else could be used that may harden up some so it doesnt fall off/out again.

 

i have seen places that sell a relay kit but they use a strange looking relay.
http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-...P230004HW.html

 

That's what's wrong with your wiring to start with. Damaged components need to be replaced. Yours is doomed to soon failure if not dealt with.

It's standard (faston) connectors. You can get a repair pigtail (connector with short leads) at any auto parts store. If you use good, ie soldered splices, that should be adequate.

You can use a standard flag style crimper (mine is a Paladin 1306) and faston connectors in various gauges, crimp onto the original wires after cutting them back a fraction of an inch, and insert them into a new connector block (the one you just dumped the pig tail leads out of) and have original specification wiring. If you're interested, I'll look up the part numbers for the connectors, available at places like Newark, Digikey, etc.

My friends 2006 Chevy 4X4 burned down to the ground due to fault heater wiring last fall, so don't think buying a later model truck is going to avoid all wiring gremlins. This first gen, given a few mods, is extremely reliable.

The Cheby

 

that make you really think about things. i know on my 81 i have managed to keep ahead of most of the major electrical problems. someone replaced a fusible link.

 

If you do not want to make your own you can buy one that will work. Not the quality of what you could make but it is a quick and easy install.

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/89...t-harness.html

Here is the link to the current location on the LMC website.
http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fc/full.aspx?Page=70

Part number: 47-3660