Head gasket replacement , block clean up advise?
03-10-2018, 07:35 PM
#16
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thanks for the help guys!
I just picked up the head from the machine shop. They took off .010 to get it flat. Since this is the first time the head has been off, am I still able to use the regular head gasket or do I have to go to the thicker (.010) one? e
I just picked up the head from the machine shop. They took off .010 to get it flat. Since this is the first time the head has been off, am I still able to use the regular head gasket or do I have to go to the thicker (.010) one? e
03-10-2018, 08:43 PM
#17
Administrator
I just replaced the head on my truck,
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...-329169/page5/
I cleaned the old gasket off the block using a scraper blade that I ground to a razor edge using my angle grinder, also used a razor blade gasket scraper that I use to clean windows with.
I used 2 of the longer head bolts as guide pins so the head would not slip on the gasket.
Yes I also stuff rags into the cylinder bores and coolant ports,
Although I tried to keep the pushrod openings clean, I also took the side cover off to replace the gasket where I cleaned all the debris.
If I am going to be out of sight on any engine I will tape all of the openings using painters tape.
I had installed the intake on a LN800 ready to Install the carb after lunch and when I came back since I always recheck my work, and found someone had dumped a hand full of grade-8 lockwashers down the intake port.
Jim
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...-329169/page5/
I cleaned the old gasket off the block using a scraper blade that I ground to a razor edge using my angle grinder, also used a razor blade gasket scraper that I use to clean windows with.
I used 2 of the longer head bolts as guide pins so the head would not slip on the gasket.
Yes I also stuff rags into the cylinder bores and coolant ports,
Although I tried to keep the pushrod openings clean, I also took the side cover off to replace the gasket where I cleaned all the debris.
If I am going to be out of sight on any engine I will tape all of the openings using painters tape.
I had installed the intake on a LN800 ready to Install the carb after lunch and when I came back since I always recheck my work, and found someone had dumped a hand full of grade-8 lockwashers down the intake port.
Jim
03-12-2018, 05:08 AM
#18
Registered User
03-12-2018, 08:42 AM
#19
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03-12-2018, 06:22 PM
#21
Registered User
The theory on the smoother the head & engine block surface is, the better the adhesion of the gasket material to the cast material. You can read all the talk of different materials mentioned etc etc but this doesn’t apply to your “cast iron” head & block. Apples to oranges. Working the block with a stone or sand paper also helps lesson the gasket fire ring wear groove around the cylinders. The groves will lower the crush factor of the new gaskets fire ring, which raises the chance of cylinder compression pushing past the fire ring seal & the chance of losing another head gasket. With a ton of high hp builds under our belt, we had great success doing things this way.
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NJTman (03-12-2018)
03-12-2018, 06:50 PM
#22
Registered User
Since no body answered you, I’ll jump in. Yes, you should install the .010” over genuine Cummins gasket # 3283337 because now your valves are .010” closer to your pistons. Is it mandatory, no, not unless your going to run higher than stock rpm. If you had the head completely rebuilt with new valve grind etc etc, then the machine shop would have sunk your valves into the head & you could of run the stock thickness 3283335 gasket without any word, even at high rpm.
The theory on the smoother the head & engine block surface is, the better the adhesion of the gasket material to the cast material. You can read all the talk of different materials mentioned etc etc but this doesn’t apply to your “cast iron” head & block. Apples to oranges. Working the block with a stone or sand paper also helps lesson the gasket fire ring wear groove around the cylinders. The groves will lower the crush factor of the new gaskets fire ring, which raises the chance of cylinder compression pushing past the fire ring seal & the chance of losing another head gasket. With a ton of high hp builds under our belt, we had great success doing things this way.
The theory on the smoother the head & engine block surface is, the better the adhesion of the gasket material to the cast material. You can read all the talk of different materials mentioned etc etc but this doesn’t apply to your “cast iron” head & block. Apples to oranges. Working the block with a stone or sand paper also helps lesson the gasket fire ring wear groove around the cylinders. The groves will lower the crush factor of the new gaskets fire ring, which raises the chance of cylinder compression pushing past the fire ring seal & the chance of losing another head gasket. With a ton of high hp builds under our belt, we had great success doing things this way.
Edwin
03-12-2018, 07:28 PM
#23
Registered User
Thread Starter
Since no body answered you, I’ll jump in. Yes, you should install the .010” over genuine Cummins gasket # 3283337 because now your valves are .010” closer to your pistons. Is it mandatory, no, not unless your going to run higher than stock rpm. If you had the head completely rebuilt with new valve grind etc etc, then the machine shop would have sunk your valves into the head & you could of run the stock thickness 3283335 gasket without any word, even at high rpm.
The theory on the smoother the head & engine block surface is, the better the adhesion of the gasket material to the cast material. You can read all the talk of different materials mentioned etc etc but this doesn’t apply to your “cast iron” head & block. Apples to oranges. Working the block with a stone or sand paper also helps lesson the gasket fire ring wear groove around the cylinders. The groves will lower the crush factor of the new gaskets fire ring, which raises the chance of cylinder compression pushing past the fire ring seal & the chance of losing another head gasket. With a ton of high hp builds under our belt, we had great success doing things this way.
The theory on the smoother the head & engine block surface is, the better the adhesion of the gasket material to the cast material. You can read all the talk of different materials mentioned etc etc but this doesn’t apply to your “cast iron” head & block. Apples to oranges. Working the block with a stone or sand paper also helps lesson the gasket fire ring wear groove around the cylinders. The groves will lower the crush factor of the new gaskets fire ring, which raises the chance of cylinder compression pushing past the fire ring seal & the chance of losing another head gasket. With a ton of high hp builds under our belt, we had great success doing things this way.
I presumed the shop( who has a good reputation) was going to provide me with a print out or something of everything done. They just verbally said they took .010 off the head and that I would be fine with the standard gasket.
Thanks for your insight!
03-13-2018, 10:41 AM
#24
Registered User
3200 rpm is right at the max of safe rpm with stock valve springs. Now your valves are .010” closer to your pistons than before. If you are going to run the 60# over HD valve springs, I’d say 100% safe at any rpm & boost level to run std gasket. If you are going to run stock valve springs, specially ones with higher miles on them...go with the .010” over gasket for sure.
I suggest a min of .060” valve to piston clearance for up to 4000rpm & more than that at higher rpm.
So you know .010” isn’t going to cause you any major grief starting in cold weather. Hell I run a .020” gasket & live in the great white north.
I suggest a min of .060” valve to piston clearance for up to 4000rpm & more than that at higher rpm.
So you know .010” isn’t going to cause you any major grief starting in cold weather. Hell I run a .020” gasket & live in the great white north.
03-13-2018, 11:30 AM
#25
Registered User
Thread Starter
3200 rpm is right at the max of safe rpm with stock valve springs. Now your valves are .010” closer to your pistons than before. If you are going to run the 60# over HD valve springs, I’d say 100% safe at any rpm & boost level to run std gasket. If you are going to run stock valve springs, specially ones with higher miles on them...go with the .010” over gasket for sure.
I suggest a min of .060” valve to piston clearance for up to 4000rpm & more than that at higher rpm.
So you know .010” isn’t going to cause you any major grief starting in cold weather. Hell I run a .020” gasket & live in the great white north.
I suggest a min of .060” valve to piston clearance for up to 4000rpm & more than that at higher rpm.
So you know .010” isn’t going to cause you any major grief starting in cold weather. Hell I run a .020” gasket & live in the great white north.
In that case, from a performance aspect, would I be better going with the standard gasket?
In my mind, wouldn't my compression ratio be a tiny bit higher, possibly resulting in a more efficient engine?
03-14-2018, 08:31 AM
#26
Registered User
For the blocks deck in frame, the correct way to clean is to pull dowels & with a flat stone (type you would sharpen a chisel with) work the block in long strokes with the course side 1st for approx 20 mins, then with fine side of stone for another 20 mins or so. If you can’t find a new stone, then you can use a perfectly flat piece of hardwood block (chunk of steel works too) & some 120 grit, then move on to some 400 to finish up. Chase all threads, vacuum out all area’s after & clean with brake cleaner. Re-install new dowels & your good to go.
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