Hey all. I know there's alot out there on this but just figured I'd ask. I've got a chance to get an HE351cw fully rebuilt with a billet wheel for some barter and a little cash. I'm running an HX35 now and plan on compounding soon with either an s472 or 475. Just curious if i should do the 60mm upgrade on my hx35 for the twins or run the 351

 

Keep it as a HX35 and put a S472 under it. Don't waste money on a wheel upgrade if you are going compounds.

If you want to keep it single turbo, then by all means do the HE351. Billet wheel is unnecessary unless it is bigger.

 

The billet wheel on the 351 or doing the billet wheel upgrade for the hx35? the 351 i can get for the same price as the upgrade for the 35 that's why I'm curious which will be better over the 472. I'm going to run a single for a little while till i can get all the piping and big turbo for the compound setup.

 

The he351cw has a smaller housing so i'd assume that would spool faster than the hx35, and be better suited in a compound application. It also flows more than the hx35 and is much better in a single application.

I would get the he351cw if they are the same price, and it's in good condition.

 

The HE351CW also has a better wastegate if you're not going to run an external gate.

 

Thank yall for the input. I'm going to get it and run it as a single for a while till i get the 472 and the rest of the compound components. It's fully rebuilt by a local reputable shop and 300 is just to good to pass up on

 

I'm curious though. I've read some threads about modifying the wastegate to keep it functional but i am confused on what exactly i need to do to it to keep it functioning. I'm going to run the piping over my intake so i don't have to Re clock anything. Any input?

 

You will want to reclock the centre section (requires pulling compressor and turbine housing off) to get the oil ports vertical.

Some have run with the oil ports off vertical with no ill effects, not ideal though.

See these pics for the unclocked position of the oil ports:

 

So did you end up clocking yours. If that's your setup. Any input on how to mod wastegate to keep it operational

 

I ended up clocking mine for both the oil ports and the compressor outlet, i tacked my wastegate shut.

 

If your are not clocking the compressor housing itself than the wastegate will stay operational. You may want to use the solenoid though, 12v to it =20psi and 0 volts to it=40psi i think, could be the other way around.

The other option is a spring gate, many prefer this method. I will be building one for mine in the near future.

 

BILIT, it is the other way around. 0v, 20psi, 12v 40psi

Now I modified a HX52 wastegate to fit my turd. 0v is 30psi...

 

Thank yall for the input. I'm hopefully going to get it installed this weekend. So can i clock just the center section for the oil lines and keep the compressor housing like it is and just cross cold pipe over intake pipe

 

Yup. You need to remove the exhaust and compressor housing completely first though to clock the centre. There are roll pins that hold everything in place.

 

And from what i can see in your pictures, i just undo the v band clamp on the exhaust housing, rotate it where the lines are vertical. Reinstall v band clamp. Then there's just a snap ring to rotate the intake housing back to where i can just run my piping over the stock intake. Is this all correct. I don't have the turbo in front of me but I'm sure there are multiple writes on the wastegate solenoid. Which wire gets the 12 volts