Like the title says, I have turn signals but no hazards since I have owned this truck. However, when I have a turnsignal on and turn my hazards on the turn signal will turn off. I am out of ideas. I have replaced the mufti-function switch (ts/ wipers, etc switch), checked the fuses, switched both relays around, and now I am down the the wiring diagram in the FSM (AD56).

I have tested continuity start to finish from fuse9 to L6 to switch, fuse13 to L19 to switch, L50 to RWAL module(ABS), L50 to the male connector of brake switch (not sure how to test switch), and L60 to guage cluster harness. Testing to the lights doesnt make sense to me since the turn signals work.

My only ideas are that I have one goofed up relay or my brake switch is faulty. Any ideas? Me and wires dont get along.

 

I have had this problem since I bought my truck as well. Finnaly fixed it today by replacing both the turn signal and hazard light relays on the fuse block. They are the two silver cylinder two blade relays.

 

Good to know I will have to do this as well. If you dont mind me asking how much were they?

 

I got mine at advance auto and they were 6$ a piece for standard duty relays and 12$ a piece for heavy duty relays. I just got the standard ones and they seem to be working fine.

 

Swap the flasher units, I bet you'll have flashers but no signals.

 

Switch them and see if the problem reverses. The "relay" the other guy is talking about is called the flasher. How often do you need your hazards to work? We don't have common rails!

 

I was calling them relays because that's what they are listed under at autoparts stores. And I just need them in VA to pass inspection.

 

2 Blade Relays?
I think you are refering to your flashers.
A note about flashers, cheaper flashers are thermal and resistance makes them heat up to flash, (more trailer lights the faster they flash) better flashers use either a L/C or R/C circuit or integrated circuit to give a constant speed regardless of load, this is the one you want to use unless you are running LED's then you need another flasher.

BTW
L/C = Inductor / Capacitor
R/C = Resistor / Capacitor

Aah electronic therory again...

Good flashers can cost from $10.00 to $100.00

I have an electromechanical unit jumpered to my fuse block, the kind used in class-8 tractor trailers.
Swap out a good known flasher in your hazards and see what happens.

Also Interesting that the schematic shows the Turn Signal and Hazard flasher as two diffrent schemes, one series and the other parallel.

Jim

 

Now that was a good one


I use my hazards almost everyday to flash all of my LED's when I have to park in parking complexes at work, I also leave my parking lights on when I leave my truck, makes it easier to notice.

Jim

 

This was the very first thing I had tried actually, an no go. Based on Reapertura experience I wonder if one is faulty and looking at each relay one is original to the truck and one is a replacement. Additionally, I am wondering if the relays work as a pair, unless someone can confirm this...

To reiterate... each one works as a turn signal relay but neither work as a haz. It does not matter if a relay is in each socket simultaneously or if only one relay is in the panel.

This is why I have been stumped for a year.

 

Do they list Turn Signal and Hazard flashers as diffrent part numbers?

 

This is what I have found
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...1546&ppt=C0117

The EL12 from Tridon is an electromechanical turn signal flasher that operates at 12V and features 2 terminals. This type of turn signal flasher uses electromagnetism to operate. It was developed to directly replace corresponding 2 terminal thermal turn signal flashers (536, 552, 577). This flasher has a design life up to 400 hours.

Product Features:

Designed To Outlast Thermal Flashers
Trailering Capable
Capable Of Handling Up To 10 Lamps

Product Application(s):
1993 Dodge W250

Hazard Warning; Electro-Mechanical Flasher
Turn Signal; Electro-Mechanical Flasher

 

I swapped the two out when I was having trouble and replaced my brake fuse. Then I had signals but no flashers.

Somehow the bad signal flasher took out my brake fuse.

 

Crimps fail
Connectors back out of the housing
Wires break when flexed
Mice have their way

Somewhere, something's broken.

Wire a couple of faston male blade connectors to a lamp socket (168 for instance) and plug them in where the hazard flasher goes. Turn on the hazard switch, then probe by grounding the expected circuit path through the wires, switches, and lamp wiring. When you ground a point the light should turn on. You can't hurt anything.

 

Interesting idea, I am in town so I will stop at orilleys and try 2 new relays in the parking lot. If they fix the problem i will buy new ones. If they dont I will try your test.