bigragu

When we were at lunch yesterday, Mark, discussing this subject, I failed to tell you that I put mine in years ago, when Wannadiesel and BC847 did the pictorial install in the sticky. I went to Cummins West with all the part numbers given.
To plumb my gage, I bought the snubber from Genos, and also plumbed an inline shut off ball valve. Then, I spent th $$ for an Autometer electronic gage. So in the engine compartment I have about 14" of fuel line connected to where the fuel line off the piston pump attaches to the filter housing, and from there to the sending unit and wire into the cab.
At idle, with a brand new fuel filter I hover between 16-18 psi. Normal freeway driving around 13-14 psi. At WOT I pull it down to around 10 psi.
Once I see WOT readings around 7 psi, it's time to change the filter. I've been doing this since around 2007.
Advice on an expensive mess up- I accidentally ran the truck out of fuel, and forgot about bleeding the lines by loosening the injector line nuts, instead tried the priming and bleeding the normal way. All the excessive cranking and nothing, till I finally bled the lines by loosening the injector lines.
The expensive damage to that, was a ruined sending unit, which cost me $100. What I should have done was, shut that ball valve off first, before trying to restart the truck.

ofelas

The "HV" part of the "LP" pump is a 1.25" diameter piston.

All HVLP pumps will flow "25%" over a LVLP pump.

Here's a good description - High volume, low pressure lift pump, piston style - 89-93 Cummins

cougar

I was running a Delphi pump on my 91.5 back when everyone and their dog's uncle's brother was attacking them as cheap Chinese junk, including Eric who wasn't the hungry diesel then. Never could pull the fuel pressure down before the governor did.

ofelas

You make a good point.

Especially when the good OEM HVLP piston pumps are made in China as well, by the Cummins' plant there.

j.fonder

PREACH!!

Have to make one product inferior if you want to overcharge for yours.

j.fonder

And your link is equally overpriced. $230 for everything to install, no thanks.

mknittle

Thanks Augie,

ofelas

$265 from your preferred 12v helper vendor here - Low Pressure Piston Lift Pump - from The Hungry Diesel

j.fonder

everyone's gripe with the Delphi pump is the pressure. most folks saying it hardly runs over stock, usually 9-10 psi. well, it's as simple as swapping in a cheap fastenal spring and you've got the overpriced pump that vendors sell.

cougar

I thought about changing the spring once, but why bother. If it keeps up with the demand (ie. flow/volume) it's doing its job. VE's are not picky about input pressure unless it is too much, then you just blow out the front seal. The VE makes its own pressure, all the lift pump has to do is supply enough volume so it can make it.

j.fonder

I do know that inlet fuel pressure is beneficial for the internal timing advance on the pump. But yes, as long as it stays above 3-5psi, I'd say keep running her as is

ofelas

Sigh.

I know you can wrap your head around the difference between these pumps.

Its hard to reliably support above 375 or so unless you have the volume/gph.

Think larger piston diameter.

j.fonder

With 100% antifreeze, my water pump runs so efficiently that it actually adds HP and decreases drag on the motor. This allows the VE pump to run more efficiently and use less fuel at the same HP level. So a small bore pump will support 500 hp in my system and get 22 mpg towing through the Rockies.

Edit: you're on my ignore list.

j.fonder

I also soak the fastenal spring in hygard prior to install. Provides continuous lubrication of the fuel system.

ofelas

Epic FL swing state fail.

I got 26mpg towing Rosie O'Donnell through the Canadian Rockies (steeper) and I run 100% crushed soybean hulls in the fuel tank.

Edit: I've always been on my own ignore list