I guess I should feel very lucky that my pump has been trouble free for so long. I think a lot has to with me not setting the fuel maxed out all the time. I have maxed it out before and ran it for a few weeks when I first installed it, but it still moves plenty of fuel turned down moderatly.

 

When I talked to KTA a while back, he said if they're at 400-450-ish rwhp worth of fuel they'll pretty much last forever. If you try and push em to 500-600 all the time, then that's when the trouble starts. I think rpm is a big killer too.

 

Did you guys "break in" your 14mm's?

Not sure what killed this one. Would like to try it again, but it will be a while. $$ It had some issues from the start, and they possibly what caused it to fail. Also, I am afraid to say the ksb wire was off, that probably didn't help.

Does everybody run boost referenced fuel pressure?

 

I believe that most people that have a 14mmH&R living do. So that tells me it is probably required. That along with a ringed front seal so you can run higher input pressure.

 

I'm glad you brought that question up.. I thought about along time ago when service life was in question..The VE will NEVER break 700hp and be a daily driver....That would be P pump or Common rail..Get use it Men.

 

mine see's around 55-60psi at WOT and yes its a must. But however a retainer on the front seal is not necessary i have never had a problem with loc tite holding a stock seal in, even with up to 80psi of fuel pressure.

Yes a break in of about 400miles is always a good idea. Or a bunch of heat cycles.

I run NO ksb on my pump.

 

Wow that is interesting, wonder if yours is a fluke? And I was worried about my loctited seal at 20psi haha

 

Ive got a couple 12mm pumps running around that are loctited and they see a constant 30psi of fuel pressure even at idle. The 12mm pump that I ran for a while also just ran a loctited seal and it saw 50psi of boost ref fuel pressure on a regular basis. And the same applies to the 14mm pump that I seized and the one that im currently running on my truck. I havent had a problem yet! Knock on Wood!

 

Impressive, to say the least, don't think i'm going to push my luck, just yet.

 

Thanks for the good info. But....it brings along more questions.

What all is involved in removing the KSB? Is it the process the same on non-IC and IC?

Is there any more power from running the higher fuel pressure? Or just makes it live longer?

If I try to run the boost referenced FP and it blows out the front seal, will it still run good/ not seize(for 300' +/-)?

What do you think about hooking the boost reference to the primary boost pressure?

 

Removing the KSB is simple but you need a plate to block off where it was and a special plug to go down in the front part of the housing next to the fuel inlet.

If there is a gain in power, which is a good possibility, its not enough to notice on a seat of the pants dyno run. I have never had the nerve to try running without it. The main thing is that it makes it live longer.

I guess you could but your crank case will be full of diesel fuel by the end of the track as long as that FP does not drop you will be fine.

That would work...just make sure you dont feed too much pressure into it around 50-60psi is plenty.

 

Thanks for the info Josh.

Should have a 12mm back on for this weekend's pull.

 

good to hear