gsa auction crewcab gasser 4x4
gsa auction crewcab gasser 4x4
looks like another one thru the auction. click on fleet sales then california then the dodge crewcab to see photo, http://gsaauctions.gov/gsaauctions/gsaauctions/
Beats Me
Winr, Did you do your '83 conversion yourself?
If so, did you run into any problems or did it go in pretty simply?
How about the ratios in the diffs; are they usually 3.57 from those years or 4.10s?
I'm looking for a cheap and (simple) way to get 3.57 or better mileage, say like, 3.07 and keep my 4X4. I'm not stuck on my 'Binder if I can improve my mileage to 20 or so from the 13 I'm getting now. I am going to keep my CTD.
I may go look at that truck.
dumptruck200
If so, did you run into any problems or did it go in pretty simply?
How about the ratios in the diffs; are they usually 3.57 from those years or 4.10s?
I'm looking for a cheap and (simple) way to get 3.57 or better mileage, say like, 3.07 and keep my 4X4. I'm not stuck on my 'Binder if I can improve my mileage to 20 or so from the 13 I'm getting now. I am going to keep my CTD.
I may go look at that truck.
dumptruck200
Yep, I did. to me it wasnt any more difficult than swaping from a small block to a big block. If you have a donor truck everything is a bolt-in with few minor mods. If you can put one in your binder you can put one in the Dodge even easier.
I should write an instruction book but time dosnt agree with that.
I wanted mine to look like it grew there so I used all factory parts. I had to move the Elec bulk head conector ( 1"to the left ) to clear the hole for the slave master cyl, swapped the gasser fuel tank w/the diesel tank and extended the plastic lines, I changed core supports and trimmed my grill to fit around the int cooler/AC condensor, moved the headlight buckets to match the grill, Used the trans crossmember that came on the donor ( had to re-drill the holes in the frame), transfered the under dash and engine compartment elec's and inst cluster.
Thats most of the mods, none of them are huge. Keep in mind that all these items are bolt in, ( except the bulk head mod) so hand tools are all thats required and a right angle drill, to drill the frame for trans crossmember. I had less then 80 hrs in the whole job including the frame stretch.
All the work was done outside.
Anyone needs more details let me know
Bill
I should write an instruction book but time dosnt agree with that.
I wanted mine to look like it grew there so I used all factory parts. I had to move the Elec bulk head conector ( 1"to the left ) to clear the hole for the slave master cyl, swapped the gasser fuel tank w/the diesel tank and extended the plastic lines, I changed core supports and trimmed my grill to fit around the int cooler/AC condensor, moved the headlight buckets to match the grill, Used the trans crossmember that came on the donor ( had to re-drill the holes in the frame), transfered the under dash and engine compartment elec's and inst cluster.
Thats most of the mods, none of them are huge. Keep in mind that all these items are bolt in, ( except the bulk head mod) so hand tools are all thats required and a right angle drill, to drill the frame for trans crossmember. I had less then 80 hrs in the whole job including the frame stretch.
All the work was done outside.
Anyone needs more details let me know
Bill
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Jim
I'd bet they're 4.10's. I have 4.10's in mine, I just cant go much faster than 70 mph. But works well with the trailer I pull. This is an issue on another thread (gear ratio) gears take some of the burden off the other drive line parts. Hoping this will let me get more life (between rebuilds) out of my Getrag
Bill
I'd bet they're 4.10's. I have 4.10's in mine, I just cant go much faster than 70 mph. But works well with the trailer I pull. This is an issue on another thread (gear ratio) gears take some of the burden off the other drive line parts. Hoping this will let me get more life (between rebuilds) out of my Getrag
Bill
I called the custodian a few minutes ago but no answer. The Forest Service has custody of the truck, normally they are around all the time, but he's a researcher so he may not work weekends.
There must be a way to get the ratios from the VIN. Dana will tell you every detail you want to know about their axles with the serial number. I called them about the closed-knuckle Dana 70 front axle on the old 'Binder. I had an axle end rebuild kit in two weeks.
Thank you for your help so far, Bill. I'll post if I find out what those ratios are.
I am researching a two-speed for the rear axle on the International. If I could two-speed it, higher overdrive for two-wheel drive and keep the 4.10 ratios for four wheels and loads, I'd have the best of both worlds. The whole differnetial comes out from the front of the rear axle, third member design I think it is, and it has the casting bosses that look like they would take the shifter for a two speed axle.
Those Advance Adapters over - and over/under drives look like the trick, but $3000.00 is too steep for my wallet.
Maybe I'd just better be happy with what I have!
See you,
Jim
There must be a way to get the ratios from the VIN. Dana will tell you every detail you want to know about their axles with the serial number. I called them about the closed-knuckle Dana 70 front axle on the old 'Binder. I had an axle end rebuild kit in two weeks.
Thank you for your help so far, Bill. I'll post if I find out what those ratios are.
I am researching a two-speed for the rear axle on the International. If I could two-speed it, higher overdrive for two-wheel drive and keep the 4.10 ratios for four wheels and loads, I'd have the best of both worlds. The whole differnetial comes out from the front of the rear axle, third member design I think it is, and it has the casting bosses that look like they would take the shifter for a two speed axle.
Those Advance Adapters over - and over/under drives look like the trick, but $3000.00 is too steep for my wallet.
Maybe I'd just better be happy with what I have!
See you,
Jim
I thought I had 4.10s in the Binder, but they're 4.88s. That explains the 13 mpg.
How much would I improve mileage with 4.10 or even 3.74? Couldn't be as simple as the change in ratios, could it? Say, 4.88/4.10 is 1.19*13 equals 15, or 4.88/3.74 is 1.30 * 13 = 17
Inquiring minds want to know.
How much would I improve mileage with 4.10 or even 3.74? Couldn't be as simple as the change in ratios, could it? Say, 4.88/4.10 is 1.19*13 equals 15, or 4.88/3.74 is 1.30 * 13 = 17
Inquiring minds want to know.
we had a two speed put in dads 87 gmc 6.2 diesel it was a stick with 4.10 and it made alot nicer to drive on the freeway with the two speed. his was between the trans and transfere case and you could split the gears made a big difference going over mt. passes with five ton on the gooseneck. made the 6.2 alot more than what it is;. the crew cab i bought has 4.10s but if i get a donor truck bought i will pull the axles. tommorrow i go look at a short box for mine. it had a nice tool box utility bed on it. mine was army issue. still green in the cab 78'
farmer_01
Let me see if I hear you right. You put a Cummins in a '78? That must have been a project. I can't enlarge the picture you have posted, but it looks good what I can see of it. Man, I love these engines. I see them all over the waterfront down here in San Francisco. Even the higher priced yachts have them. There's just something about the sound of them... having a diesel rig was a childhood dream come true for me. I'll keep my eyes peeled around here. Some of these trucks are settin' in junk yards...that's where I got my wrecked CTD and the overheated one. The guy sold me the overheated one,and when I found the cracked cylinder wall and went to get my money back, he gave me the wrecked one. I made one of the two.
I looked into a splitter from Advance, but their price scared me off.
I'd rather tackle that swap into that GSA '85 and do something from there like Winr did in his '83.
Say, can you change the just the 2H ratio in a np 205?
That might be a cheap way out. Ought to be just two gears to swap.
I am looking to get 70 on the highway, right now best I can do is 55 close to WOT, but keep as close to 4.88 for 4 wheels in the hills as I can.
Let me see if I hear you right. You put a Cummins in a '78? That must have been a project. I can't enlarge the picture you have posted, but it looks good what I can see of it. Man, I love these engines. I see them all over the waterfront down here in San Francisco. Even the higher priced yachts have them. There's just something about the sound of them... having a diesel rig was a childhood dream come true for me. I'll keep my eyes peeled around here. Some of these trucks are settin' in junk yards...that's where I got my wrecked CTD and the overheated one. The guy sold me the overheated one,and when I found the cracked cylinder wall and went to get my money back, he gave me the wrecked one. I made one of the two.

I looked into a splitter from Advance, but their price scared me off.
I'd rather tackle that swap into that GSA '85 and do something from there like Winr did in his '83.
Say, can you change the just the 2H ratio in a np 205?
That might be a cheap way out. Ought to be just two gears to swap.
I am looking to get 70 on the highway, right now best I can do is 55 close to WOT, but keep as close to 4.88 for 4 wheels in the hills as I can.
i am gather parts /info to do the swap . i want a cummins five speed 4x4 crew cab and since i rode in Regs' cummins swap i am sold on keeping the old style sheet metal. going to look at an early short box , step bumper , and trailer hitch today. fellow is stripping a pickup for a rock climber says $300 with tail gate and no dents or rust. working on getting a donor pickup got one i am working with the owner on 250k miles cummins , five speed 4x4 cab has been in a couple of wrecks but very drivable. needs five speed worked over. as far as the transfer case goes i have always seen one to one ratio for high range. i am swaping front and rear end , power steering box and anything else to makes this thing as straight forward to buy parts for later in life.


