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Fusible Link Help

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Old Nov 9, 2014 | 11:18 PM
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From: SE Oklahoma
Fusible Link Help

I was installing a new battery cable end and in the process the fusible link on the big black wire that goes to the positive terminal broke. It had been tampered with by the PO. I'm thinking about just wiring a resettable circuit breaker in place of the FL. My question(s) are 1. What amperage do I need in a circuit breaker to handle the load but still trip if there's a surge. 2. Or should I just replace with a short piece of fusible link wire? I don't want to rewire everything as others have because I'm electronically challenged to say the least but I do want a good dependable fix for the problem.

Thanks in advance
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Old Nov 10, 2014 | 08:51 AM
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can you post a picture
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Old Nov 10, 2014 | 08:59 AM
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Yes I have plenty. This wire or cable is almost as big as my pinky finger
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Old Nov 10, 2014 | 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by honobiahunter
Yes I have plenty. This wire or cable is almost as big as my pinky finger
I don't think that is a fusible link. I think that is the feed wire for the intake heater. Just guessing without a picture.
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Old Nov 10, 2014 | 10:47 PM
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This cable is the main power supply. I got it fixed this evening. Bought a 150 amp resettable circuit breaker and heavy ring terminal ends and soldered them to each side of the splice and connected it it the breaker. All is good for now
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Old Nov 11, 2014 | 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by honobiahunter
This cable is the main power supply. I got it fixed this evening. Bought a 150 amp resettable circuit breaker and heavy ring terminal ends and soldered them to each side of the splice and connected it it the breaker. All is good for now
Glad you got it fixed. Originally there were 4 wires coming off the positive terminal at the battery.
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Old Nov 12, 2014 | 03:39 PM
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Yes, there still are 4 wires coming off the positive terminal (the one we've talked about, the starter cable, and the 2 wires that go to the grid heater solenoids). So far so good with the circuit breaker. Also not a bad way to deter theft because I can trip the breaker and cut all power to the truck.
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Old Nov 12, 2014 | 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by honobiahunter
Yes, there still are 4 wires coming off the positive terminal (the one we've talked about, the starter cable, and the 2 wires that go to the grid heater solenoids). So far so good with the circuit breaker. Also not a bad way to deter theft because I can trip the breaker and cut all power to the truck.
Interesting idea I haven't seen an automotive breaker that can be switched off like that.
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Old Nov 12, 2014 | 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by mknittle
Interesting idea I haven't seen an automotive breaker that can be switched off like that.
I've seen them in both semi truck and marine applications.
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Old Nov 12, 2014 | 08:40 PM
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My method is to unplug the FSS, they can crank and crank all day and will probably just assume the truck is broken.
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Old Nov 14, 2014 | 04:45 PM
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Here's a pic similar to the circuit breaker I used

http://www.zoro.com/i/G1890384/?utm_...m_campaign=PLA
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Old Nov 14, 2014 | 05:45 PM
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That one's pretty much the standard. Here's the same breaker with MinnKota's number on it.

It's handy to just pull the lever to kill all power to the trolling motor. No worry about some junk migrating on a rough road and turning the thing on under the cover.

http://www.gandermountain.com/modper...FYY8aQodDDcAxg
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