edwinsmith

I appreciate the thoughts. I used to work in a government contract parts shop. I also worked at Boeing in Wichita. I have seen just how much stuff is over specced in order to pass muster. It's why government work is so expensive. No bureaucrat inspector is going to pass something that even smells like it's substandard.

For me I take a more jaded view. Sure it's probably made in China but the bolts aren't. They are 3" x 3/8" and put into 1/2 inch holes 3 inches deep. The cheapie winch I got is rated at 900# so I think I'm covered there. I'm not trying to lift the truck off the ground. I'm just trying to slide it up an incline that only took 3 mexicans from Home Depot to push the truck up.

Edwin

edwinsmith

Yes. I plan to have my wife in the cab to steer. Across the street is a block wall and somebodies backyard. I highly doubt the truck would jump the curb on the other side of the street. There's usually a car parked there anyway and have you seen my back bumper?

bigragu

Edwin, just don't leave any leather straps latched onto that D-ring. People might think your into that S&M bondage stuff. Same with chains and whips, lol

bigragu

You wanna see some scary stuff? Search on YouTube on post tension cable accidents. Who would think that cables hardened inside concrete many years old could come exploding/whipping out, causing severe, catastrophic damage.

edwinsmith

The worst one I ever saw was a fellow unloading a CAT off a trailer. The CAT flipped end over end with him in it. He didn't survive. It's funny but there's an episode of Ice Road Truckers on right now and they had one truck pulling another up a hill. Just as the other truck got to the top the chain broke loose. It tore the back frame off the trailer in front but the snap back didn't hit anything vital.

Edwin

bigragu

Do a YouTube search on big blue crane accident, the crane that went down while the erecting of the Milwaukee Brewers stadium. High winds, and a load weighing as much as a 747 being hoisted, mix about as good as that fuel leak into your oil, lol( like how I tied into your tread?)
3 iron workers lost their lives on that one. Nasty way to go.

Jim Lane

Aww forget the truck for now, let's go to Norm's.

BearKiller

On EDIT: I just noticed the $44.90 price for that pump; I seem to remember paying more like $300 or so for one in a genuine Cummins box and I supposedly got a better price than the average bear by having a garage tax/business I.D. and I drove 130 miles one way to get it; it was Cumberland Cummins back then but I think they are called Crosspoint Cummins or somesuch now.



That 3936320 is the correct OLD Cummins number for the proper low pressure pump; it has been changed who knows how many times since that number was current; I did buy my 3936320 pump, gaskets, and genuine Cummins spacer, all in Cummins boxes, direct from a Cummins repair shop in Louisville, Kentucky, in about 2006 or early 2007; that 3936320 number was current then.
I did a bit of research back then and found that my pump was actually manufactured by Carter.
With a Stewart-Warner mechanical 0-30 PSI gauge, at idle, my pump will read 16-psi; it barely ever gets above that even at full throttle.

When I first installed my pump, I followed some tech write-up and also bought a different steel line at the same time from Cummins; this line went from pump outlet to injector pump inlet.
I got one of those replacement banjo bolts that had a gauge port.

Later, after getting stranded in a busy intersection due to fuel shut-down resulting from an algae infestation, and having to be log-chained home behind a huge milk truck, I discovered that these piston pumps have a screen hidden within their inlet fitting; you would not believe how little it takes to stop up this screen, and this is ahead of any stock filter.

I was wanting to do some other upgrades and alterations anyway; so, I completely replumbed the fuel system, using 3/8 rubber line, clampless JIC barb fittings, and JIC adapters in every threaded port.

There are NO banjos on any of my fuel lines.

My pressure sender now resides in a TEE fitting in the rubber line post fuel filters.

Also, the fuel line that connects to the piston pump's inlet, where that hateful screen is hidden, is routed high and dry up by the left hood hinge, where it passes through a simple plastic see-thru filter before proceeding back down to the pump inlet.

That filter at first was in a short section of hose right next to the pump inlet, between the engine and frame; it stopped up one dark rainy night in a community notorious for murders and disappearing strangers --- ever hear of the cornbread mafia? --; I laid on my back in the mud in my Sunday-go-to-meeting clothes, holding a flashlight in my teeth, and changed that filter while fuel poured down my neck and in my ear; thus is why the next day it got relocated to a much more convenient spot.


That being said, to address your problem, if you indeed have too high pressure for the VE seal, rather than mess with trying various springs in an attempt to bring pressures down, Carter, I believe it is, makes a very dependable bypass fuel regulator that would be a good solution with the added benefit that you would still have the higher pressure pushing through the filter, which just may make the difference on a sub-zero day.


Also, for what it's worth, I have mechanical fuel-pressure gauges on three of our trucks that are mounted under the hood, in the engine compartment; such an arrangement may work for you.

BearKiller

1.The trick is to NOT get a modified pump, but a pump that is originally designed for the VE = whatever current Cummins number that took the place of 3936320

The "low pressure" 3936320 was original equipment on many 6bt applications; Chrysler just opted to go with a diaphragm pump, most likely to save money.

Get yourself some long studs to replace the two pump mounting bolts and it makes life a whole lot better; put a smear of Permatex on both sides of the first gasket, slide in on the studs, do likewise with the spacer and slide in on the studs, likewise with the second gasket and slide it on the studs, and finally smear a bit of Permatex on the pump and slide it as well onto the studs, add lock-washers and nuts and you are done = a whole lot easier than wrestling with all of those loose pieces and trying to line them up on a short little bolt and hit the hole.
I got mine at McMaster-CARR; I also did the water-pump as well; I had to use my tap-n-die set to cut the threads farther along the stud, as they have a bit too much unthreaded portion for most applications; get them plenty long, you can always shorten them.

2. YES, and it is the easiest way to replace that seal.
You grind a sharpened notch in the blade of a large screw-driver; you hammer the screw-driver through the metal ring of the seal, you then lever out the seal.
Once the old seal is out, it is a simple matter to press in the new.
There is absolutely no good reason to disassemble all those millions of tiny easy-to-forever-lose parts that are between having the pump off and getting in there to the back side of that seal; none of that stuff ever wears out or causes problems; likewise with the big O-ring head seal; the only thing behind there to ever need attention is the plunger springs and if the engine has less than three million miles on it, then they are probably fine.

Actually, if too much pressure caused your problem, your seal is probably already pushed out of the housing and just riding along on the shaft.

BearKiller

THANK YOU ! ! !
I have done dozens in the traditional way, by removing all the lines and removing the pump from the engine; I dread each one more than the last.

If I ever have reason to just replace that front seal and no reason to remove the pump, I am sure going to try this through-the-front method.

I once made a set of pullers for some other project where I welded drywall screws onto three long steel rods and then drove the screws through the seal; gripping the rods with vise-grips and hammering against the vise-grip jaws soon walked out the seal; I see no reason such an arrangement would not work with the VE.

Of course, I may find different when I actually try it.

BearKiller

You need a push-pole.
I made mine from an 8-foot length of heavy wall 3-1/2" pipe that I had laying around.
In my case, I welded wagon-tongue style pin-clevis connections on both ends, so that any old truck or tractor could use either end.
So long as someone steers the being-pushed truck, I can push one about as fast as I could pull one with a chain; very very handy in your situation or when pushing a dead truck or tractor onto a flatbed.

They are also handy if you ever have to pull someone down the road; a chain will pull, but it won't hold them back; a push-pole will keep them from running over you.

BearKiller

A few years ago, a tornado tore through a neighboring community, scattering houses, barns, and garages.
It leveled a three-bay body-shop, leaving most of it two farms over, yet there were two vehicles sitting on the concrete floor that were miraculously unharmed; it was even on the news and everyone was talking about how unbelievable it was that those two vehicles escaped damage.
The guy that owned the shop told me that they were both fastened down at several points to some sort of frame straightening device buried within the floor; he said that nobody ever asked and nobody ever looked underneath them, so he just let the mystery remain.


As for putting big fasteners in concrete, an old retired bridge builder showed me how and a bolt installed this way when pulled out will tear out a big chunk of the floor with it.
Drill the hole big enough for the bolt with nut and flat washer on the end to drop in it.
Go to the feed-mill and buy several big yellow sulphur boluses (pills) for cows.
Put the sulphur tablets in a metal can; first bend a pouring spout in the can's rim.
Holding the can with a pair of channellocks, heat the can with a propane torch until the sulphur melts to liquid as runny as water.
Pour this melted sulphur into the hole around the bolt.
When it cools, a crane could not pull it out.

Doing thus, you do not have to have special bolts or anchors; plain old bolts will suffice, their grade according to the task.

nonrev

"Go to the feed-mill and buy several big yellow sulphur boluses (pills) for cows.
Put the sulphur tablets in a metal can; first bend a pouring spout in the can's rim.
Holding the can with a pair of channellocks, heat the can with a propane torch until the sulphur melts to liquid as runny as water.
Pour this melted sulphur into the hole around the bolt.
When it cools, a crane could not pull it out."

That's some pretty good Old School info right there BearKiller but you should probably have a breeze blowing away from you so you don't inhale any of the fumes.

bigragu

BK, all good info there! Thanks for replying, and sharing your tough experiences. PM me back and I'd like to hear about the cornbread dudes.

edwinsmith

I'm not quite sure how this would work. I'm on a concrete driveway and the pole would either have to fit in divots in the concrete or make big ones as I went along. On dirt or gravel is a different story. Thanks for the idea though.

Edwin