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1st Gen. Ram - All TopicsDiscussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.
you do not need to machine anything. I got a standard flat washer(5/8" I think. the O.D. will be the same as the neck on the VE pump) drill and counter sink 3 holes in the washer. get 3 8-32 flathead allen screws 1/4" long, drill and tap the holes about 5/16" deep, screw the washer on with blue loc-tite. done!! plenty clearance between the pump gear and washer. that`s how I fixed my VE pump seal. you may have to champher the top thread (with the counter sink) to clear the taper on the flat head screw. Butch
Well, I just placed the order for the new piston lift pump from DieselTuff.com and tomorrow I go to Cummins to see if they have the seal Kit for the VE. I asked DieselTuff if the pump came with a gasket. They replied that no but they would throw in a couple for free. Now that's excellent service!
I have to get a come-along to pull the truck into the garage to do the work. Hopefully I'll be back on the road soon.
I blew out the front seal after rebuilding the pump myself. I had read that the aftermarket front seals that come in the kits were slightly off in dimension but the replacement I got from a Bosch rebuilder had the exact same dimension stamped into it so who knows. They also were both made in Germany.
In the end my issue was increased pump housing pressure caused by a kinked return line that I caused when changing my starter. I found that the day after loctite-ing the new seal in. So lucky it didn't blow out again!
My truck was making oil though quickly and lots of it. I filtered it and dumped it back into the fuel tank!
I blew out the front seal after rebuilding the pump myself. I had read that the aftermarket front seals that come in the kits were slightly off in dimension but the replacement I got from a Bosch rebuilder had the exact same dimension stamped into it so who knows. They also were both made in Germany.
In the end my issue was increased pump housing pressure caused by a kinked return line that I caused when changing my starter. I found that the day after loctite-ing the new seal in. So lucky it didn't blow out again!
My truck was making oil though quickly and lots of it. I filtered it and dumped it back into the fuel tank!
I was thinking about that. What type of filter did you use?
Found the seal kit on FleaBay got it on order. I also got a new pump gasket at Cummins this morning.
Went by Harbor Fright tools and picked up a winch and a D-Ring to bolt to the floor in my garage. This way I can hook on to the truck and drag it back into the garage which is slightly uphill. I can't leave it halfway out of the garage overnight because tools tend to get up and walk out with the door open. Garage isn't big enough for the truck if you must ask. (Too many tools) I can't work on it out in the open and the incline makes it dangerous to jack and get under.
Also got a steering wheel puller for the pump gear and while standing in the checkout had to get a new set of wire strippers. Can't have to many of those.
Found the seal kit on FleaBay got it on order. I also got a new pump gasket at Cummins this morning.
Went by Harbor Fright tools and picked up a winch and a D-Ring to bolt to the floor in my garage. This way I can hook on to the truck and drag it back into the garage which is slightly uphill. I can't leave it halfway out of the garage overnight because tools tend to get up and walk out with the door open. Garage isn't big enough for the truck if you must ask. (Too many tools) I can't work on it out in the open and the incline makes it dangerous to jack and get under.
Also got a steering wheel puller for the pump gear and while standing in the checkout had to get a new set of wire strippers. Can't have to many of those.
Edwin
You pick up some metric S wrenches to be able to get those hard to reach pump mount nuts? Or do you already have that correct tool from Schley?
I just installed a D-Ring in the floor at the end of my garage. Went pretty fast with a 1/2" hammer drill.
Got a cheap winch to hook up the truck and reel it in. Hopefully I won't need it after this but something tells me I will.
Stupid question, Edwin, and I don't mean to question your abilities, lol, but you said you went to HF today...you didn't get that ring inserted into the ground from HF, did you? Or even the inserts?
Stupid question, Edwin, and I don't mean to question your abilities, lol, but you said you went to HF today...you didn't get that ring inserted into the ground from HF, did you? Or even the inserts?
Say it isn't soooooo!!
No such thing as a stupid question... except for the one you didn't ask.
Me, personally, I just have a problem with using an overseas product that's going to be used for any tension type stress. I don't know if it has gone thru the rigorous testing that we do here for torque, shear, and tensile loads.
For example, for all the years running Plan and Spec type of work, I've seen these engineers that like to use Hilti brand anchors, and if we(the company I worked for) wanted to deviate from their requests, they wanted to see all the load ratings spec'd out for whatever particular fastener we wanted to use for the particular application. Hilti, does very rigorous tests on all their fasteners, and each fastener has a stamped approval showing its capacities, and its uses. That's why mechanical and structural engineers love their product.
As an example, using the type of anchors you drilled thru the concrete- In 1998, we installed 4" long Hilti brand quickbolt type anchor, 5/8" in diameter, one at each corner holding up an air handler( we installed like 6 of these air handlers on the first floor)that weighed almost 10,000 lbs. That was spec'd out by the engineer, for the California EPA high rise. I questioned it, as that unit was only 14' above whoever had their desk under it when the building was done. They had an on site inspector, who not only had to witness a torque test, but made sure we properly installed that type of anchor correctly. Believe me when I say there are a ton of folks out there in the commercial trades that don't know how to install those anchors. You just can't beat in into the concrete, then bolt in whatever your anchoring down. You must first anchor it down without the load piece, cinching it to torque so the tapered bushing in the anchor sets and locks in. Then, unscrew the nut that came with the anchor, and attach whatever, then cinch down again. That's why these anchors all come with its own nut/washer. If these procedures aren't followed, that anchor will fail soon enough.
I guess it's held up, as that project was completed back in 2000.
Long tale, yes, but the point I'm trying to make is anchors, attachment points that will take stress loads, yes, I want to use something that's been lab tested. I do not know if it's done overseas as stringent as it's done here.
There should have been a number written on that D-ring, telling you it's capacity. Come alongs, all that, have capacity ratings.
Lastly, if ever installing an anchor that was spec'd out for a certain length, plus an inbed spec(how much is suppose to be inside the concrete), if you ever hit a piece of rebar with your anchor, and do not have the required depth in, do not take your saw zall and trim off what's on top, the left over! These anchors are now being made with reference marks or colors on the end that you hammer. These inspectors are looking for that mark. If it's gone, he's going to for sure think you tried to pull a fast one, and now you have the onsite inspector at your side, baby sitting you for every anchor drilled in, lol
You're just going to have to bite the bullet and re drill another anchor in. Since I've been gone from the field, they've come out with drill bits called rebar eaters. It'll drill thru rebar. I've heard, that in some jobs those are not allowed for concerns of drilling out a piece of the concretes structure, or worse yet, a stress cable!!! You don't ever want to drill into one of those!!!
Edit- post tension stress cables is the proper name, instead of just stress cables. Found on bridges, concrete parking structures, etc.
Last edited by bigragu; 10-12-2017 at 10:24 PM.
Reason: Better description
Edwin,
Make sure you have someone sitting in your truck that can operate the brakes when you winch it in,
I was using a name brand come along loading a Cadillac onto a trailer, when it was almost loaded the hook snapped off the come along and the car flew off the trailer.
I had always used someone to keep slack using a logging chain but this time I didn't.
Doesn't the end of your driveway end in someone's house?
That anchor would make a great anti theft device, tie your truck down with a steel cable.
10-11-2017, 08:56 PM
