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1st Gen. Ram - All TopicsDiscussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.
Remember to not forget to cut that bracket at the rear of the pump, just a part off of the top, so that any future need to get a wrench on the fuel shut off solenoid will be easier, and capable.
If you look close at the pics Jimbo468 had of his engine build, I believe there's a good view of where he cut it.
I scanned and searched but I couldn't find the pics. No matter though I get the idea. When I get the pump off I'll do the job on it.
I found the S wrenches at Horror Fright Tools but a different location.
I found a replacement for the twisted fuel line at the Cummins Dealer for $32.14 plus theft. There is a new PN 3918641 which is shaped a bit differently to not cross over the throttle lever so much which is much better.
Found some metric bolts to cut-off and make studs for the piston pump. Hopefully I won't have to deal with it for a very long time though.
Drained the oil and filter. Got about 8 gallons of oil/fuel mixture. I plan to put in fresh oil and filter and run starter for a while to get everything lubed well before attempting to start it.
I went into my bookmarks and thought I had pictures/posts of an unmolested throttle bracket with a mark showing where to cut it; alas, every last picture had a place where it should be but no picture.
Where you cut it isn't really important, so long as you cut it close to the pump head but not below the pump head.
That bracket has two identical holes side by side at the top, and a larger single hole under those two.
From the pics I've seen of others who have shopped that bracket off, I followed suite and cut directly under that larger hole, skimming the bottom of the circumference with my cut off disc. Hopefully this helps.
Here's a picture of the pump after I took it off. The front seal is out but it appears completely undamaged. I used a new seal anyway and coated it with red locktite after cleaning the diesel fuel out of the bore with brake cleaner on a Q-tip so I didn't wash the fuel out of the bearing.
Heck ya!! Good job, Edwin! Although the task was taxing, it feels good to find the fault, doesn't it?! Thanks for sharing. I've been pacing back and forth wearing out my walkers wheels, lol, like a Father in the hospital awaiting a newborn, lol.
I don't know about cigars but I have about 7.5 gallons of very thin black oil. That's what I drained out but I don't know how much went out the overflow tube before it was caught.
It's all back together and runs fine with the same oil pressure as before and no new noises. I haven't driven it yet other than back it out of the garage. I'm dead tired and I'm heading for the shower.
Hey, Edwin, did you happen to get to check on your new fuel pressures on that lift pump?
I was thinking about this recently, when you said you swapped in a new oil filter and new oil as closure to your dillema. In the future, for other folks that ever have your same problem, if the oil filter was recently replaced, and the fuel contaminates the oil, can the same new filter still be used with fresh oil, if left out upside down for a day or so, to make sure all fuel is out?
I know, oil filters are cheap, but say you were in a situation where there was no replacement oil filter. It should be okay, right? I'm asking everyone's opinion, not just yours, Edwin. I just thought, given your situation, that this would be an appropriate tread to ask this.
Hey, Edwin, did you happen to get to check on your new fuel pressures on that lift pump?
I was thinking about this recently, when you said you swapped in a new oil filter and new oil as closure to your dillema. In the future, for other folks that ever have your same problem, if the oil filter was recently replaced, and the fuel contaminates the oil, can the same new filter still be used with fresh oil, if left out upside down for a day or so, to make sure all fuel is out?
I know, oil filters are cheap, but say you were in a situation where there was no replacement oil filter. It should be okay, right? I'm asking everyone's opinion, not just yours, Edwin. I just thought, given your situation, that this would be an appropriate tread to ask this.
No I didn't get to check the fuel pressure. I just don't have the time and energy right now to get the fittings and such to do it. I will eventually put in a fuel pressure gauge after the filter that will be permanent. That way I can see if there are any problems such as a clogged filter or failing pump/clogged lines.
I swapped the filter mainly because it had been several thousand miles since the last change.
IMHO, the small amount of fuel contamination still left after draining both the crankcase and the filter are not enough to cause problems. The crankcase catches fuel and combustion products that blow by the rings anyway and is the major reason we change the oil so frequently. Therefore if your filter was nearly new it shouldn't be that big a problem to not change it. I did however fill the new filter with oil before I installed it to cut down on the time of running without oil or a lot of air being pumped through the system.
After pouring 3 gallons of fresh oil into the engine, I cranked the engine for a minute or so to help circulate the fresh oil around the engine. I waited until the oil pressure light went out and the gauge started showing pressure. At the same time I had the bleed screw after the filter open and the return line banjo loose on the injection pump to purge air from them. Then I connected the fuel solenoid and had Sue crank it while purging air from the injector lines. Then I tightened them down and it fired right up.
Don't let my opinion about residual fuel contamination persuade you that YOU should do like I did. If you have the time and money to spend on oil then you can change the oil again after a few minutes of run-time. For me however I may leave it in for a while and change it again. I used relatively cheap Dino oil (Valvoline 15w40 recommended by Cummins) then I'll switch to some good Synthetic when I have an extra $150 to spend.
I've never had the $$ tomgo synthetic in motor oil, ever, lol. Delo 15/40 is my go to oil for both my Ford and dodge. Can't beat the 3 pack from Costco, especially if it goes on sale.
I don't mind, using Dino oil, as I am religious at changing out the oils and filter every 5,000, and once a year send in a sample to be tested. I like changing fluids in my truck anyway, especially on a Friday night around 10pm. I find it relaxing and therapeutic, lol.
I only pray that my oil change and transmission fluid change fall on the same night!
I barely have money to buy plain old oil; I am adamant though about it absolutely has to be CI-4 or earlier formula.
As for draining the oil filter as you mentioned, so long as the open filter is kept in a clean environment, I see nothing wrong with draining out the fuel-soaked oil and re-using the filter.
10-19-2017, 10:47 PM
