Fuel gauge acting up
I have noticed that my fuel gauge on the dash has been acting up the last 3 times I filled up at the pumps. The needle will cruise backwards beyond "E" and will get stuck there and bounce around. The problem seems to correct itself when I drive the truck some miles after leaving the pumps. Is the float sticking in the fuel tank or is it a dirty wire connection on the sending unit? I have not had any fuel gauge issues until recently.
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You can check the wiring first if you can get to it but I would venture a guess that it is the sending unit. If it were the float I believe you might be seeing the low fuel light when it is showing empty.
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Sending Unit
The sending unit itself is about $75 from Dodge and pretty easy to replace. This was the very first thing I ever did on my old girl.
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Mine acts similar to yours. One thing I can't figure out is when I'm about 1/2 tank full my gauge will drop clear down right to the "E". The low fuel light will not come on but when I'm really down low about 8 gallons left in tank when the gauge floats down toward the same spot the low fuel light will come on. Almost acts like there are two circuts for the sending unit which I don't believe there are.
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I imagine replacing the sending unit requires a person to unbolt the fuel tank straps and drop down the tank? I have done a fuel tank replacement on an ol' Chevy I had..........ended up pulling the whole darn bed off! :( Hopefully the 1st gen Dodges are a lot easier to deal with.
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I think the bed route is easier!! You can just "rock" it, Loosen all of the bolts on pass side, remove all on driver, and filler neck, give slack for all wiring. Then lift up on driver side and place a jack stand or something to hold it up while working on it. I do that at work all of the time, but that's me
Justin |
Originally Posted by 93flatbed
(Post 2572033)
I think the bed route is easier!! You can just "rock" it, Loosen all of the bolts on pass side, remove all on driver, and filler neck, give slack for all wiring. Then lift up on driver side and place a jack stand or something to hold it up while working on it. I do that at work all of the time, but that's me
Justin |
If I am correct I think there are two circuits. One for the light and one for the gauge. My gauge does the same exact thing. If I stop filling when the pump clicks off there are no issues. If I try to top the tank off then the guage floats around for a few miles. Then it goes back to working normal.
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Originally Posted by ZSkibo
(Post 2571593)
The sending unit itself is about $75 from Dodge and pretty easy to replace. This was the very first thing I ever did on my old girl.
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Originally Posted by Bmount35
(Post 3353414)
can you post a link cant find any
You are asking a guy about something he posted almost 10 years ago. You are unlikely to get an answer from him. He has not been on DTR since 2010.... The part he was referring to WAS available in '09...it is discontinued now. You have to find one used, or contact a guy like me that has a several of them on my shop shelf. |
I read somewhere recently that 1st Gen Dodge dakotass use the same sending unit. Supposedly there was no difference between gas or diesel and Dodge used the same part number. You can still get an aftermarket Dakota sending unit. I am not 100% sure though.
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I would be surprised if that is true Peckens.
Gas and diesel fuel sending units are different. Gassers, depending on the year, have an electric fuel pump in them that diesel 12Vs don't have as they use the motor mounted mechanical lift pump. Gassers sending units often don't have a return fuel line port that is needed for Cummins motors so they can have a constant fresh cool source of fuel. When I do my Dodge truck gas to 12V diesel swaps I have to change out the gasser sending units. |
You can still rebuild them, lines and what not but it's a lot of money.
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