OK I've been amassing parts to service, and rebuild the front suspension/brakes etc in the donor 93 before I do my 4x4 conversion in the crewcab.

I've spent the last few nights rummaging through the archives looking for all the info, and opinions I could find, on doing this job. Have not been able to find some info though.

I want to do as thorough a job as possible, and don't mind spending the money to do things right the first time. Currently I have new parabolic springs, and new shocks. Also have all new rotors, calipers, pads, hardware kits, hoses, etc. Then I have all new drag link, tie rods, swaybar bushings, new King pin kits, and new U-joints for the front axles. Now I have been trying to find info on if I need/should do the inner axle seals on the front diff?

I have been looking at the blow up diagrams of the front end and think I should replace all the seals I find as well? What other things should I get?

Only want to have to this job once...for now at least. Appreciate all your thoughts and suggestions.

 

While your frame is still in good shape get this part, http://www.dodgeconnection.com/catal...66/4541374.htm

DC is out at this time they can be had from later year RamChargers
dont bother looking in trucks dodge never put them in trucks.

Also if you can find a 72-76 powerwagon or ramcharger grab the steering system https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...2-t301769.html

 

Everything I've read says if you pull the shafts, replace the seals because they will leak after dragging the shafts across them.
I've pulled the shafts on 1 Ford 60 without changing the seals and they didn't leak.

I also seen a friend of mine stick a long 3/8 extension down the axle tube and use it as a fulcrum to line up the shaft with the seal to prevent dragging it across the seal.

 

I would do the inner axle seals for sure and the pinion seal. It does require pulling the guts out of the pumpkin but its not bad as long as you make sure you make sure all the shims stay together where they need to go and you mark the caps and the bolts. Here's the part numbers and pic's just to help a little. These are Napa part numbers[ATTACH]

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Oops posted the pinion one twice.

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The frame brace is a must...and on my list to buy. That steering upgrade is on my wish list...need to get the crewcab converted to 4x4 first though.

Thanks for the pics of the Napa seal numbers, Bryson711. Not sure if I'll do the pinion seal though. Never pulled a Dana gear set apart before.

 

You don't have to pull it apart. Its just 4 bolts and the caps come out and you can lift it out as an assembly. You will have to pull that out to do the inner axle seals. The seals install from the inside of the pumpkin. Also to get the pinion out you just loosen the nut holding the yoke on the axle and the pinion comes right out. Replace the seal and put it back in. Its not a bad job its more intimidating than anything. There are no crush sleaves on the pinion, just a few shims. Just make sure all the shims get put back in the same way

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I have heard it is recommended to get a new pinion nut when you pull the pinion. Something about how the threads distort on the nut after being torqued. Be sure to use an in/lbs wrench and get a rotational drag reading of the pinion before you remove the nut if you are not regearing. Set the drag the same when reinstalling.

 

Thrashingcows, i have the DC frame brace i may be willing to sell (i am in canada). I just have to double check that it wont work for me since i have crossover and have jungles frame braces welded in.

I just replaced the rear pinion seal on my truck, very easy. Front pinion should be very similar. Didn't bother with measuring rotational drag but that is the proper way to do it, i went by feel. Pull the nut off, pull the yoke out, pop the seal out, put new seal in, install yoke and nut, re-tighten. A new nut is good practice, a little loctite is an alternative.

You might aswell throw these in too:

http://www.partsmike.com/store/store...on=show_detail

I have had great luck using partsmike for parts but you may be just as good going with local napa or northwestfab should have what you need too.

If you are going new draglink i would highly recommend getting a custom one that can have the ends replaced in the future.

http://www.partsmike.com/store/store...on=show_detail

 

Thanks again for all the great advice!

I will definitely do the pinion seal....I was not sure how the front axle tubes seals were installed...have to go from the inside Huhhh...Doooh!!! Got things apart that far...may as well do the pinion seal as well.

Also the Inch/lb drag measurement is great advice...will do!

And Biltit...PM me if you don't need that bracket. I had those spindle kits on the list as well...but thanks for the links.

 

Don't even bother with the R/C steering box brace, unless you duplicate it of heavier material.
I've pulled a LOT of them out of RamChargers and they always seem to be cracked on the slotted end.

Stock they definitely are NOT heavy-duty enough to have any discern-able impact on a truck with the weight a Cummins adds.

Another problem is the fact that everyone thinks they need the biggest, widest tire they can on the front of these trucks, even though the OEM suspension wasn't designed for 35" tall x 12" wide tires.

Mark.

 

But Mark that's why we make them OUR truck we raise them up Put Cross Over Steering and big tires and wheel's on them they run just fine you just have to Work on them and fix what the factory didn't .

 

No worries about the BIG tires.....I'll be running the stock 235/85/16.

 

OK I have the front diff open, bearing caps marked and removed. I can't get the carrier to come out. I have tapped on it with my 2lb brass maul, tried to pull gently with several different bars...and still won't pop out.

Any tricks?

 

2 ways I use are, use the handle on 2 hammers and use them a pry bars and kinda pry it out. Other thing I just done last week was to wrap a ratchet strap around it and hook it to you frame or whatever you can and get some pressure on it and then tap on it a little. There kinda a pain. One other way I have heard of but have not personally tried is too wrap a rag around the ring gear and turn it and when it gets to the pinion gear it will kinda pop out. Let us know what happens!

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