My goal;
1) To improve off road traction with a locked front diff.
2) To maintain over the road 4WD driveability of a open diff.
3) to achieve these goals real cheep like!

My idea;
Why cant I weld the spiders in the front diff to lock it solid and get the off road performance of a spool or locked diff. Then when I need over the road 4 wheel drive run one hub in the locked position and one hub in the free position and get the full differential of a open diff?

 

I dont know why that wouldnt work. We nused to weld up diff's on our old jeeps. We used those high alloy blue rods but watchout the slag will jump off in your eyes.

 

A locked front axle is almost impossible to steer in slippery conditions. The truck will want to go straight, you will have to unlock one hub to get it to steer.

 

Wannadiesel is correct. Works on straight line theory. Virtually unsteerable.

 

Back in the day when I had little enough sense to go "4-wheelin'", my old 78 Chevy with OPEN differentials at both ends was always the last truck still able to move, usually the only one to end up having to pull others out of the bad stuff, and would climb in places that others could not.

One thing I noted about those with locking differentials was their tendency for the rear to want to slide to the lower side on inclines, whereas I did not experience that problem with the open differentials and could more easily keep the truck pointed where I wanted to go.


I know that all of this "locker" business sounds good in theory, but it really makes little difference in the real world.


A real good example is most farm tractors that have a pedal under the seat that, when pressed, will tie both sides together; I have never witnessed this feature to help once a tractor has quit moving forward in normal mode, NEVER.


Also, watch a bunch of gooseneck-towing trucks parked in a wet field at a farm sale or the like.

The ones that jack-knife quickest and have the most trouble are always those with locking rears.


These have just been my own observations and may not hold true for everyone else.

 

I have to agree with Bearkiller on this one. Open axles do give better drivability on and off the road. They are easier on tire wear and you can get power to the slipping wheels by light application of brakes. However open axles make it difficult to "drift" with a dually. Most 4X4 articles I read on the subject reccommend a limited slip front and locking rear so you can steer. Of coruse the most expensive way to go and probably the best for off roading would be independently controlled air lockers on front and rear. But that isn't in the budget.

 

While you may have never witnessed it does not mean that it doesnt help. I have used that pedal many times to get me out of places that i couldnt without it.

 

I totally agree that a locked front axle will not work over road. I guess I could have made that more clear. But I need more traction off road.
And was thinkin that the welded spiders run over road with one hub locked and the other hub free would work nearly or as well on hard pack as an open diff. In that setup the one locked wheel would lead and the free wheel would follow allowing full differential between the front wheels. This would prevent any binding between the 2 front wheels caused by turning circle and tire diameter. The rear axle is an open diff that would allow the rear to keep pace with the one locked front wheel. I dont know if there would be any wear, binding or damage caused by something I have not considered (enter the DTR Brain trust! :-) ).
My favorite 4 diggin setup is a very tight clutch posi in front with a detroit locker in the rear. When I was a kid my first 4digger was a IH Scout with all wheel drive. Since then I had a 72 bronco f posi r detroit locker and a 85 full size bronco with posi/posi. My current digger is a 97 1/2 ton swb Ram, rear posi soon to have front ARB. Personally I like the loose, point and shoot, mode that comes from all 4 locked up and diggin. On Brutis, my 4wd rig welder though, I am looking for other solutions.

 

Once a guy gets a handle on it, split brakes is a dandy too. I have more than a few hours in a steel seat myself.

 

My only concern with the lincoln locker is the amount of torque going through it.I have done a few for autocross racing but they were buget builds with 4 bangers

 

I would look into a selectable locker. I know the price is more (by a lot) but either an ARB, OX LOCKER, or mabey an E-LOCKER if it's made for a 60. Cheaper but still functional automatic locker would be a POWERTRAX NO-SLIP or NO SPIN, can't remember also these are lunch box lockers you can install yourself which replace the spidergears. They are way better and smother than the POWERTRAX LOCK-RITE.

As for locker difference in the real world I've had open, posi or limited slip, and now locked all in similar 4X4 rigs. I won't go back to an open or posi rear end. For off road go LOCKED or go home. The rear of my ranger is locked and I would like to lock the front also just is the $ factor. I think I would also look into a winch. As long as the back is locked and you have a good winch to help out in a pinch it might work good that way.

In the end I would rather have an automatic locker such as the POWERTRAX or DETROIT over a welded front end. The main reason is that when you do let off the throttle the automatic lockers will ratchet and allow for different wheel speeds, like you would let off the throttle for say a corner. It just takes a little to get used to how they handle and the benifits for me far out way the negatives.

 

Driving with one hub locked on a welded front axle in something that actually has some power is plain old scary. Get on the power and the wheel that is locked in pulls the truck towards the side that isn't, get off the power and it pulls it back the other way. And, I'm not talking a little bit here. I would not do a welded front end in anything that isn't a dedicated trail rig, and even then, without hydro assist at a minimum, it isn't exactly fun to steer.
I do have a welded rear in my wheeling rig, and have dealt with one in a dd/tow pig. Once you get used to it, it's pretty much a non issue, and completely livable other than tire wear. The traction gained is considerable. But, so is the tire wear.
Personally, I plan on a selectable for the rear of my dodge and a good limited slip for the front, I sure could have used that today, got a little carried away pushing a snowbank back and my open diffs let me down... At least I got pulled out by another Cummins... LOL

 

Hmmm thats somthin to think about. Like catching traction with one front wheel. Not good on an icey highway. I'll put this one in the bad idea bin. The DTR Brain trust comes through again. Thanks!

 

X2 I would rather have both hubs locked in than one, you'll be chassing it all over the road...