So I fanally finished doing mty brake, some $620 later. Yeah, once I started to replace the pad and drums i did it all. All this because one of those big red shoes springs that keep it against the backing plate let got and for the front shoes at a 30 degree andgle into the drum

$172 (pair) each drum Napa
$35 Shoes Napa
$35 (pair) outer bearings Napa
$120 (pair) inner bearing Napa
$40 (pair) Hub nuts (2-9/16) Semi truck shop
$25 Hub nut Socket Federated auto (Made by Lisle)
$30 (Pair) Inner seals Napa
$25 (pair) Chevy wheels cylinders Napa
$18 (pair) shoe springs Autozone
$20 (pair) self adj kits " "
$10 Brake lines " "
$10 Speed Bleeders " "
$30 Parking Brake cables Napa
$6 Axle retaining nut clip Mopar (read: overpriced)
$15 Brake Kleen, RTV and shop towels
$40 Shop labor for pressing Napa

Thats $631. A little depressing.

So has anyone started to "just change the shoes" and redone everything?

 

Seems like about every one of my projects have that characteristic... I guess it is a blessing of a 15yo truck but, I like the payment

Rich

 

Yup and I am still trying to stop the beast.Its got to be the RWAL valve or the booster.

 

Went through the same thing a month ago not quite as much but I skipped on a few things you did. I think it ended up costing me about 400 said and done. Thing is I pulled it in to work on the IP

 

When I got my truck the brakes didn't seem right so I jacked up the right rear and took off the wheels and hub for a look see. Everything was all rusted up so I got a set of shoes and cleaned, lubed everything. Put that all back together and adjusted so I went to the left side.

When I got it apart I discovered that someone had completely GUTTED the brake. No shoes, no springs or other metal bits except for the wheel cylinder.



So back to the parts store for the rest of the innards plus a new wheel cylinder. I got it all back together and adjusted so I try to bleed the brake cylinder. No fluid would come out at all!. I fiddled with it some more then I tore it apart again.

What I hadn't noticed was the idiot who gutted the brake also stuck a little nail in the end of the brake line to seal it. I yanked that out and then everything is fine.

I didn't replace any bearings but I did replace the seals. Got real good brakes now for AutoZone brake shoes.

This truck has been a real edjamacation.

Edwin

 

Yeah I figure I have about another $200-250 replacing the dump valve, braklines(you know it isn't just going to come apart) rubber hoses, and the abs ring inside the rear. You know what sux though is my front totor are warped now due to only having they to stop.

 

A nail!! Boy wouldn't you just love to get a hold of the that did that!!

 

ABS ring inside the rear?? where?

 

its the cog that the abs trigger uses, Some one blew the rear up in my truck (i've never seen the inside of a case look as chewed up as mine) and the cog was destroyed.

 

There is what's called a 'tone ring' that snaps onto the carrier before the ring gear goes on. That little two-prong connector on top of the diff housing is the sensor that watches that ring go 'round and helps determine when the ABS system should be activated. When I chunked my pinion gear, a bunch of pinion pieces got dragged around in there and chewed up the tone ring pretty bad. I hand-filed it back to perfection

 

Did mine last year only thing that isn't new is a couple of brake lines even replaced the booster.

greg

 

Somebody said that you can UNPLUG the ABS,if so I need to try it as it is scary with the trailer.Where is the connection?

 

I think that you problem have a diff problem the mine. my abs ligh was allways on do to a bad wire going to the sensor(causing the abs to no work!) I just took the bulb out off the abs and brake light and put it in my burned out bulb in the 4wheel drive sec. Don't like the way arwal(rear abs brake control) works any ways

 

ruquik, are you sure your not working on MY truck?LOL! I have the same problem, a simple repair blossoms into a comlplete rebuild...arrrgghhh! But like happycamper says, the payments are nice. I`ll work on my 13 yr old bucket `o` bolts any day over shelling out mega$$$ every month.

 

I know it's a little late, but Dorman makes the stupid little overpriced sheetmetal lock wedges. Dorman # 615135, sold 2 in a box, should cost around $2 for the pair. Still overpriced IMO, but way better than the dealer.