Ol-dodge 1992

Evening gents... still very cold up this way -37C Friday morning!!!

Anyone have any insight as to why it takes so long for my truck to warm up? My block heater is old but functioning... I have winter cover on grill... I let the truck idle for 15 min and then have to drive for 15 min before temp gauge comes up and she's blowing warm.

Is it just because the very cold outside temperature or is there some thing(s) I need to be checking?

Thanks in advance... SD

BigIron70

T-stat could be leaking allowing some flow, Feel top rad hose when temp gauge starts to move up. If hose is warm then t-stat is leaking. Hose should remain cold until t-stat opening temp is reached.

edwinsmith

Soon after I got my truck I had a problem with it taking a long time to warm up. The temp gauge didn't even register at all. I replaced the sender but this did no good. I took the thermostat housing off and I found that the P.O. had gutted it thermostat! I got a new 190 deg thermostat and the problem was solved.

These engines are very efficient so it takes very little fuel to keep them idling. My VW TDI is the same way. I have to actually drive it to get any heat out of the heater. You may be experiencing the same thing. Once it's warmed by driving a few blocks it will be fine. Check that thermostat though.

Mike L

Don't forget that these cold blooded beasts don't make much heat just sitting and idling. Best bet, and this is IMHO, YMMV, let it sit for five minutes max, put it gear and go gently until temp gauge starts to climb. My truck takes a good ten minutes of driving to get the temp gauge going up. I don't plug it in very often (wintering in the BC desert) and I also have a winter front. However, the beast was driven in the Alberta winters for many years before I retired and there were times on the highway, at -40, where the temp gauge never did get more than just a fraction into the "normal" temp range. Those were some pretty cold commutes. I run synthetic 0W-40 or 5W-40 year round and it really does seem to help a lot with the cold weather starts.

Cheers!

Mike

Ol-dodge 1992

I'm not a mechanic... if someone tells me to check this or change that I don't mind trying.?!?!

I thought if thermostat was faulty the engine would run way hot ?? Could someone please explain how thermostat works??

Also could someone post picture of location on a 1992 12v diesel... and what a good thermostat should look like as I wouldn't know if it been "gutted" or not!?!?

NJTman

If you ever "wonder" about anything, you can simply look in the sticky to see if it's in there or not.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...4/#post1030666

BTW,

My own personal experience has been that the OEM Cummins thermostat is made of better, longer lasting materials, than the aftermarket. OBviously, it's more expensive, and you can, I'm sure, get away with using any old brand and replacing it. I just feel that the OEM Cummins ones are held to a higher standard of quality because of where you are purchasing it from.

Under the upper radiator hose where it mounts to the block, if you don't want to click on that link above. It will give you guidance on how to replace it.

My truck would have to run for about a half hour idling if I wanted any heat out of it, and it works as designed, as far as I'm concerned. I let it warm up a minute or two, then gingerly drive the truck for a little while. Usually 5-10 minutes later the engine is all heated up and works good for keeping me warm.

Ol-dodge 1992

Thank you gentleman... I'm learning how to use this forum ( the sticky and such) and learning how to on these machines... thank you for the advice

G1625S

At the temperatures you mention, sounds like you have a normal running truck. The cooling systems are fairly large, sized to be towing max gcvw in summer temperatures. Moving an empty pickup around just doesn't provide the engine load required to build much heat. I live in upstate new york and would pull my fan in october, replace in march. Also would drop a big truck mud flap between the intercooler and radiatior, Charge air still gets cooled but spares the radiator of those biting wind chills. If retaining the fan, I'd cut a hole in the mud flap in line with the fan clutch so the clutch would 'see' the cold air and not lock on prematurely. Welcome to DTR!

oliver foster

I agree with G1625S.
Sounds pretty normal to me as well. I do the same but use a cardboard pieces between the intercooler and radiator. I don't get much heat out of my '95 in the winter for the first 10-20 miles either when it is really cold.
Just letting it idle in the driveway for 10 minutes does almost nothing.

I do like G1625S's idea of the cut out for the clutch fan, so it senses the real temp and not lock up too early.

Ol-dodge 1992

Ok fellas ... could I try adding the cardboard along with the front winter cover or would I be flirting with some sort of disaster??

cougar

Takes about 5 miles at freeway speeds before mine starts to warm up. Extended cabs are worse only in the sense that there is more interior to heat. Dress appropriately.

gyman98

Be very careful using cardboard or blocking the rad if you have a auto trans mission. At those temps your truck will never warm up just idling. You need to high idle at about 1200rpm before it starts making any heat.

MrFusion

I used to do the same thing as Ollie on my 95. Here in PA we don't experience the negative temps as much as you guys up north do. I did it to help the truck warm up faster and never had any problems. I had a piece of wax coated cardboard that worked great.

Also try running your heater fan on low or the next higher setting. If you run it on high it pushes more cold air than the heater core can effectively handle (make warm) in very low temps.

Another alternative is to get a heated snowmobile suit and wire a plug into the cab. Then you'll be warm and toasty right away!

Ol-dodge 1992

Ok fellas... everyone seems to think that it's just the nature of the beasts to be cold blooded ... I have no problem with that, just the way it's gonna be.

Gyman... what is the reason for extreme caution with blocking rad with cardboard (winter cover?) and auto transmission?

And I've always heard and practiced the policy of allowing the engine to warm on anything and the oil to circulate before applying power/load ... wouldn't there be ill effects on piston sleeves and internal bearings with this "1200rpm high idle " suggestion... I'm not trying to start a scrum I'm all ears, just that I've never been taught that way or ever seen it applied.

When do you apply the high idle rpm's ... I certainly understand engaging a PTO or the likes but not from cold start!?! ... do you wait fir the oil pressure to come up and then set a brick on the pedal ... ???

This is not my first winter with this truck ... just the first winter where I've actually cared about the truck and proper procedures/maintenance! Go ahead and tar n' feather me run me off the forum !!!!! I just decided a couple months ago that I'm actually gonna keep the truck and make something out of it with my boys!

Anyways... I have my blindfold in place ... you guys can fire when ready ...

SD

maybe368

My truck is slow to warm up in the summer, in Phoenix, in Arizona and I even run 100% antifreeze, in case ya'll hadn't noticed ...Mark Edit: The best way to warm up a vehicle is to drive it, easy. The heated suit is a good idea, I have 1 for my MC, heated jacket, gloves, boots and pants...